Calico, what kind of fabric is this - raw, bleached, printed, photo and composition.

Calico is a thick cotton fabric of plain weave, burmet, paper canvas.

Despite the fact that many different materials have been produced recently, most people prefer natural ones. Calico fabric remains popular to this day. It is from this that bed linen, work clothes, and children's clothes are sewn. This material is pleasant to the touch, absorbs moisture well, and is durable. Things made from calico are affordable and look attractive.

History of appearance

In Russia, they learned about what kind of fabric calico was made back in the 16th century. This material was brought by merchants from Asia, and the name comes from the Arabic word bazz, which means dense cotton fabric. By the 18th century, this fabric began to be made in our country. The fabric produced at the weaving factory in Kineshma district became popular. It was used to make linings for outerwear and underwear for soldiers. It was in demand because it was natural and inexpensive.

Since the 19th century, calico has become more diverse. They learned to bleach and dye it. They began to make children's and women's clothing, bed and table linen from it. This fabric is still popular today. It is the most common material for sewing bedding, tablecloths, curtains, children's and summer clothes, and bathrobes. Most medical, military and children's institutions use items made from calico.

Features, application

The use of cotton fabrics in the field of sewing clothing has no limits. These are casual and festive clothes, suits, skirts, trousers, homewear, lining, etc. Cotton is indispensable for sewing home textiles.

Chintz

How plain weave patterns are used:

Chintz is a lightweight fabric for sewing shirts, bed linen, tablecloths, and summer dresses.
Calico is a dense material; the addition of artificial fibers is allowed. Suitable for creating bed linen and curtains. In addition to bedding, calico makes a durable lining.
Batiste is created from twisted yarn; it is a thin translucent fabric. Blouses, dresses, and underwear are made from it.
A veil is a translucent thin material. Dresses, blouses, scarves, veils are made from veil; light voile curtains made from it are popular; hats are decorated with veils.
Poplin is a finely ribbed fabric made by weaving a thinner warp and a coarser weft. Suitable for sewing bed linen, including pillowcases, shirts, and dresses.
Taffeta is a dense, glossy and rather rigid material. Drapes well. Area of application: voluminous parts of clothing and home textiles.

Taffeta Fabric
Twill weave fabrics make good linings and draperies, as well as thick clothing:

Denim is a material for sewing work or casual denim clothing.
Bumazea is a warm and soft fabric with a brushed back. The material makes shirts, dresses, and warm underwear that are pleasant to the body.
Flannel is an example of softness, available with one-sided and double-sided fleece. It is used to make casual clothes for children and adults. Flannel shirts are especially popular.
Tartan is a famous material for large-checked Scottish kilts. Skirts, dresses and suits are made from it.

Satin is a satin weave fabric that is silky and shiny. Externally, the material is similar to silk. Shirts and robes are made from satin. Suitable for sewing light shoes. Erasers are used to make sportswear and children's clothing. Dense cotton fabrics such as diftin and cretonne are suitable for demi-season outerwear and furniture upholstery.

Diftin and cretonne fabrics

Jeans or denim?

The first jeans were made from French wear-resistant canvas, which was woven in the city of Nîmes, i.e. made from de'Nim fabric - hence the name. A little later, matter was transformed. It received its unique, non-fading indigo color, and the production of raw materials moved to American plantations. Another unique feature of jeans is that it is not the fabric that is dyed, but the warp threads. The weft remains colorless - it forms a milky white underside and leaves tiny specks on the front side.

What about denim? This is a dense twill weave fabric made from premium cotton raw materials. In this way it is identical to jeans. However, denim is not necessarily woven from dyed fibers or blue in color.

Today, jeans and denim are merging concepts, as consumers love the thick fabric and want to see it in different colors, including printed patterns.

Denim and denim fabrics

Properties and characteristics

Calico has long been popular all over the world, and many people know what kind of fabric it is. It is a natural cotton fabric with a dense weave of threads. It is called linen and consists of alternating threads through one or crosswise. Therefore, the density of calico is quite high. According to GOST adopted in Russia, it should be 142 g/m². This means that there are at least 80 threads in every centimeter of fabric. And since they are usually thick, even with slight thickenings, the fabric turns out to be quite dense.

Recently, the requirements for fabric production are not so strict. Now they produce calico with a less dense weave of threads 125 g/m². It is softer and more transparent. And in some countries, synthetics are added to cotton during its production. This fabric is also called “calico”, since the method of weaving the threads is preserved. But many people prefer to use traditional cotton fabric, the composition of which is 100% natural.

The structure of the fabric can be seen in the light - the interweaving of the threads is visible. It is slightly rough to the touch, but is the same in quality and appearance on both sides. The surface of the material is smooth and matte.

Everyone who knows what calico is appreciates this fabric for its quality. The natural cotton from which it is made gives calico the following properties:

breathable;
absorbs moisture well;
paints do not fade or fade;
stains are easily washed off;
very durable and wear-resistant;
does not accumulate dust;
does not electrify and does not stick to the body.

Types of calico

If previously all calico produced was the same and could differ only in colors, now there is a wide variety of it. First of all, the canvases differ in density. This characteristic determines the weight of threads that are used in one square meter of fabric. The higher the density of the fabric, the better it is.

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According to this parameter, three types of calico are distinguished. The highest quality is dense, produced in accordance with GOST 29298-2005. Its density is from 142 g/m². It is very durable and wear-resistant. Fabric with a density of 120 g/m² or more is of lower quality. It is used most often for the production of home textiles. The softest, but also the most short-lived fabric is with a density of less than 120 g/m². Nowadays even fabrics are produced whose density is less than 100 g/m².

In addition, different types of calico also exist depending on the thickness and method of processing the threads. They are used for different purposes, as they do not have the same characteristics.

The most durable is harsh calico.
During its production, all GOST requirements are met, and the fabric is least processed. Thread weight ranges from 142 to 160 g/m². This fabric is not bleached or dyed and has a yellowish tint. It is the roughest and most durable. Used for upholstery and sewing workwear. Recently, it has been used for the production of suspended ceilings.
Thinner fabric is bleached calico.
Its density is from 125 to 142 g/m². In its production, bleaches that are safe for humans are used. It has breathable properties, absorbs moisture well, is pleasant to the touch, and does not deform. Used for sewing bed linen, medical clothing, shirts.
Calico plain-painted the structure is the same as bleached, only it is painted in any one color.
This fabric is used for lining outerwear or suits, and for the production of table and bed linen.
Printed calico the most common.
This is a material with some kind of pattern that is machine printed. Plain weave threads are best suited for this; the paint holds well, does not fade when washed and does not fade in the sun. It is from this fabric that summer clothes, children's clothes, bed linen, tablecloths, and curtains are sewn. Now on sale you can find calico with a wide variety of patterns: polka dots, stripes, floral prints, patterns. A variety of this type is calico calico, in which the design is applied to a white background.

Stages of production technology

Ripening (opening) of the fruit, manual collection.
Sending raw cotton to the receiving point, weighing and storing.
Processing at the factory. Using a special technique, the fibers are separated from the seeds and sorted by length.
Pressing, sending finished cotton to the warehouse.
Production of yarn, then - different types of cotton fabrics.

They are produced both from a pure resource and from a mixture of natural fiber with some other natural (linen) or synthetic (viscose, polyester, acrylic, acetate, etc.) impurities. Chemical threads affect the characteristics of the material, making it more durable and less wrinkled.

GOST

All goals, basic principles and list of works, in accordance with international requirements, are set out in the current GOST 29298-2005. This standard is applicable to ready-made, raw cotton and mixed types of fabric that are used for the production of dresses, shirts or underwear.

Advantages and disadvantages

The main characteristics of calico are related to 100% natural fabric. Fabric with synthetic additives may have different properties. But most manufacturers follow the traditional composition and method of its manufacture. After all, there are many advantages of using it over other materials.

Natural calico has the following advantages:

it has good hygienic qualities - it does not cause allergies, absorbs sweat, is breathable, pleasant to the touch;
it is comfortable to use, as it does not stick to the body and does not accumulate static electricity;
warms in the cold and prevents overheating in the heat;
it is durable, resistant to wear and color fading, and can withstand a large number of washes;
it is one of the most durable cotton fabrics;
Items made from this material are easy to care for, because it washes well, dries quickly and is easily smoothed;
during use, the products are not subject to shrinkage or deformation;
The cost of this fabric is low, it is available to everyone due to its wide distribution.

But not everyone likes calico precisely because of its properties. The disadvantages of this material include its rigidity, because the weave of the threads is quite dense, so it is difficult to achieve softness. In addition, this fabric wrinkles and pills appear on it over time. Many people consider it unattractive because it is not shiny and not very smooth.

Pros of cotton fabric

Impeccable hygienic properties (perfectly absorb moisture and allow air to pass through, pleasant to the body).
They have a healing effect. They are widely used in the medical field.
High degree of strength.
Excellent thermal conductivity.
Reliability and practicality, the ability to withstand hundreds of washes.
Slight shedding of sections.
Slight opening of seams.
Virtually no stretch.
They dry quickly, are easy to wash and iron.
They lay well, do not move, and are easy to cut.

Compare with other cotton fabrics

Not all people who use linen and other household items made from calico know what it is. Many people think that cotton fabric is all the same. But in fact, there are several types of fabrics containing cotton.

They all have slight differences from calico:

Chintz has the same plain weave, but is made from thinner threads. It is not so strong and dense, so it is short-lived.
Satin is made from twisted threads, they are intertwined in a special way, which is why this material has a smooth and shiny surface.
Poplin is made from threads of different thicknesses. In addition to cotton, it may contain wool, silk, and synthetics.
Percale is very similar to calico, but much thinner and softer.

Manufacturers of calico

You can now find calico from Russian and foreign manufacturers on sale. In our country, fabric produced in the city of Shuya or Ivanovo is especially valued. The Ivanovo Textile Plant produces all types of calico, which is 100% cotton. They have a wide selection of colors and affordable prices. Shuya calico is denser and of higher quality, and fully complies with GOST.

Foreign manufacturers also produce calico. Pakistani, Turkish and Chinese fabrics have earned the trust of consumers. Türkiye is a leader in the production of cotton fabrics. Turkish calico has bright colors, does not shrink after washing, and does not pill. Usually it has a completely natural composition, but sometimes up to 15% synthetics are added. Pakistani calico is only 80% cotton, but is also very popular. It is light and soft, breathable, durable and wear-resistant.

General information

Cotton fabric is used for casual clothing, bedding, curtains and even furniture upholstery. This article is devoted to the distinctive features, advantages, varieties, and cost of cotton fabrics on the modern market.

Cotton is a natural material obtained from ripened cotton inflorescences. If you take these white lumps in your hands, you can feel its softness, dryness, natural warmth and slight roughness.

Note. The quality of cotton is determined by the length of the fiber: short fiber has less value and is more affordable.

Right choice

When purchasing calico products, it is important to pay attention to the manufacturer. Different companies produce products with different characteristics. The choice of variety depends on the purposes for which the product will be used. For children's clothes, it is better to purchase softer fabrics with a printed pattern. For bed linen, it is preferable to choose premium calico, which is of high quality.

Cheaper sets are made from sparse calico. Their peculiarity is that they are easy to wash, affordable, but less durable and can become deformed after washing. But this is an ideal option for a summer cottage, a trip or receiving guests. If you need to purchase underwear that retains its shape and color longer, you can pay attention to fabrics that contain synthetic fiber. Usually it is added no more than 15%, so this does not reduce the quality of calico, but makes it more wear-resistant.

How to care for calico

After purchasing or sewing a product made from calico, it is recommended to wash it; you can simply rinse it in warm water. This will make the material softer and remove foreign odors. Calico can be washed in an automatic washing machine with regular powder; high-quality fabric is resistant to such influences. But it is recommended to turn fabrics with bright patterns inside out. This will help preserve the colors.

To make calico products last longer, it is better to wash them at a temperature of 30°-40°.

Undyed varieties can be washed at a higher temperature. You can set the washing machine to normal mode, but for washing children's clothes or linen made from printed fabrics, it is better to choose a delicate cycle. It is also recommended not to use too high a spin speed, as things may not smooth out properly after spinning.

After washing, things need to be shaken. Usually calico does not shrink, but if this happens, you need to pull the wet item by the corners in different directions. It is better to dry clothes in the fresh air and iron them slightly damp. Such products smooth out well without steaming.

Rules of care

To smooth out the imperfections of the material, simply follow the rules for caring for it:

Wash at a temperature no higher than 60 degrees, otherwise the product will shrink.
Do not use bleach on colored items.
To make ironing easier, dry it on hangers or flattened.
Iron cotton on either side with steam at an iron temperature of up to 200 degrees. If you heat it up more, the cotton will catch fire.

Advice! Wash synthetics and cotton separately to prevent the surface of the fabric from pilling.

Satin fabric
How to distinguish real cotton from a fake:

when trying to tear the fabric, strong resistance is felt;
cotton is not electrified;
wrinkles when compressed;
If you set fire to the fiber, a yellow flame appears, smoke and a characteristic papery smell.

If you need to sew a comfortable, breathable and hypoallergenic product, cotton fabric will come to the rescue. This fabric is truly universal: depending on the structure, cotton is used to create a variety of products, from handkerchiefs to demi-season coats. There are many reasons to purchase cotton products, but its main advantages remain naturalness and affordability.