Lecture on the discipline Fundamentals of Materials Science “Classification of Fabrics and Materials”

Fabric classification

There are four types of tissues in the human body:

• connecting;
• nervous;
• muscular;
• epithelial.

Each type of tissue has a unique structure and, together with other types of tissue, helps maintain homeostatic parameters of the body. There are several varieties within each type of fabric.

As for epithelial tissues, they are of a borderline nature, since they cover the outside of the body and line the hollow organs and walls of the body. The peculiarity of this type of tissue is the fact that the cells are tightly located to each other, and there is little or no intercellular substance. All types of epithelial tissue have a well-developed ability to regenerate.

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Definition 2

Regeneration is the ability of cells to restore their own lost structures.

By composition

The main criterion for classifying fabrics is the origin of the fibers. There are several groups, each of which has specific characteristics.

Natural

The raw materials for textile production are fibers created by nature. Such fabrics are especially highly valued because they have many advantages. Depending on the origin of the fibers, textiles of plant, animal and mineral origin are distinguished.

Linen

The fabrics are characterized by high hygroscopicity, thermal conductivity, strength, and abrasion resistance. They are produced in different densities: thin fabrics are used for tailoring, coarser ones are used for bed linen, furniture upholstery, and technical products.

The group includes: shirt and dress fabric, cambric, trim, tarpaulin, fine linen, burlap.

Cotton

The fabrics are “breathable”: they allow air to pass through perfectly, which contributes to proper heat transfer. They are distinguished by their hygroscopicity, softness, wear resistance, and low cost. But the main thing is that cotton textiles are safe for health. Therefore, it is used for sewing diapers, vests, clothes for pregnant women, and medical products. It is also in demand in the manufacture of clothing, home textiles, upholstery materials, and technical materials.

Materials: velvet, cambric, calico, corduroy, denim, diagonal, jacquard, satin, chintz, poplin, etc.

Fact! Cotton combines well with different types of fibers, so it is often present in mixed materials.

Silk

A special type of fiber obtained from silkworm cocoons, which are formed by caterpillar secretions. Biological fluid consists of proteins, fats, waxes, and minerals. The fabrics allow air to pass through well, absorb moisture, and drape well. They are light in weight and exhibit slight shrinkage.

Varieties: crepe de chine, cloque, silk, chiffon, satin, dupont, crepe, foulard.

Woolen

Raw materials are obtained from the wool of sheep, goats, camels, llamas, alpacas, and rabbits. The fabrics retain heat well, allow air to pass through, are resistant to stains, and wrinkle little.

Produced in varying degrees of density. Surfaces can be smooth or piled (on one or both sides). Like cotton, wool combines well with other types of fibers and is part of many mixed materials.

Examples: angora, flannel, boucle, gabardine, diagonal, drape, cashmere, loden, cloth, tweed, felt, flannel, cheviot.

Mineral

A special group of natural fabrics made from fibrous natural substances: asbestos, basalt, silica, awn. The materials are used for technical and production purposes: for heat and waterproofing, sewing fire-resistant clothing (for firefighters, rescuers, workers in oil and gas production, metallurgical plants, etc.).

Unnatural

Textiles are produced by weaving, knitting or gluing from fibers that do not exist in nature.

Artificial

The materials are made from fibers that are produced from natural polymers (proteins, cellulose) using special technologies. The raw materials are wood (most often spruce), rubber, glass and even goat milk. Depending on this, textiles are distinguished: viscose, acetate, triacetate, casein, etc. In appearance, they are almost identical to natural fabrics.

Types of artificial materials: acrylic, acetate, bamboo, viscose, nylon, lyocell, modal, nylon.

Synthetic

Fibers are obtained from substances that do not originally exist in nature, but are invented and synthesized from different types of monomers. The raw materials for them are derivatives of petroleum products, coal, and natural gas. The fabrics are characterized by increased strength, wear resistance, and elasticity. Resistant to microorganisms. Disadvantages include electrification, low breathability, and vulnerability to high temperatures.

Thanks to the rapid development of the chemical industry, such textiles today are represented by a huge range. The most common ones: alova, acrylan, supplex, membrane, microfiber, lycra, neoprene, polyester, polysatin, polyester, spandex, tulle, elastane.

Materials can consist of 100% synthetic fibers, but more often they are used in combination with natural threads.

Mixed

The most extensive group of fabrics that have a mixed fiber composition. Most often, natural and synthetic threads are combined. Natural fibers provide breathability, hygroscopicity, and comfort, while chemical fibers provide wrinkle resistance, low shrinkage, strength, and wear resistance. Plus - cheaper cost, ease of maintenance.

Blended textiles are made in two ways:

1. From mixed fibers: threads of different origins are joined together at the spinning stage. Thanks to this, the yarn is uniform on all sides.
2. Weaving dissimilar fibers on a loom. The threads can run along both sides of the fabric or only on one (for example, in a heated fabric, the front side is made of synthetic, the back side is made of cotton).

This group includes: guipure, tapestry, dior, double-thread, lace, twill, oil knitwear, flock.

Other types

In addition to flax and cotton, other plant fibers are also used in textile production:

• kenaf: grown in China, India, Asian countries. It is durable and hygroscopic. Used for the production of tarpaulin, burlap, twine, ropes;
• hemp: one of the most ancient crops used to produce canvas, linen, ropes, ropes;
• jute: grown in Asian countries, used in the production of furniture and technical materials.

Structure and functions of tissues

The integumentary epithelium is present in the integument of the cell and forms the skin of the human body. Inside the integumentary epithelium there is practically no intercellular substance.

There is a type of epithelial tissue called glandular epithelium. It forms most of the glands and its cells are capable of producing one or another secretion. Epithelial cells vary significantly in shape, namely they can be: cylindrical, cubic. According to the criterion of the number of layers, the epithelium is divided into multilayer and single-layer. This type of tissue performs secretory, thermal insulation, protective and other functions.

As for muscle tissue, it determines any type of motor processes within the body, and also contributes to the movement of the body in space. Muscle tissue has special properties of excitability and contractility. All muscle cells contain the finest myofibrils with linear molecules of proteins, actin and myosin. They slide relative to each other and a change in the length of muscle cells occurs.

By weaving type

In the production of any fabric, two types of threads are involved - warp and weft, which can be intertwined in different ways. The appearance, texture, physical and other characteristics of the material depend on this. There are 4 main types of weaving: main, small- and large-patterned, complex.

The most recognizable types are:

Important! Satin and satin weaves are often considered the same thing. Despite the similarities, these are different types. In the satin type, the overlaps are carried out with warp threads, in the satin type - with weft threads. Accordingly, the lines in the first method go vertically, in the second - horizontally.

The remaining weaving techniques (patterned, complex) are derived or combined from the main types (satin, satin, linen, twill).

In addition, there are non-woven materials. The raw materials are the same fibers as for weaving: cotton, linen, wool, artificial and synthetic threads. But they are not intertwined, but connected to each other in different ways:

• mechanical: pressing, felting, knitting (knitwear), knitting-stitching method.
• physico-chemical: gluing (with liquid or solid binders), thermal bonding, spunbonding method.
• combined: a combination of several types of fiber bonding.

By purpose

All materials are divided into two groups: for household and technical use. The first type includes fabrics for sewing workwear, uniforms, equipment, protective suits, as well as home textiles.

drape coat

cotton bed linen

linen dress

gabardine curtains

Types of purpose and materials:

• drapes, curtains: satin, velvet, black-out, jacquard, gabardine, linen, thick cotton, chenille, taffeta;
• curtains: voile, tulle, organza;
• roller blinds: polyester with cotton, viscose or linen, blackout;
• tablecloths: calico, linen, crane, matting, percale, satin, loneta, HIRA, mati;
• mattresses, mattress covers: calico, polycotton, jacquard;
• bedspreads: calico, tapestry, jacquard, mycofiber, poplin, satin, velvet, plush, faux fur.
• decorative pillows: satin, velvet, calico, velor, cotton, gabardine, tapestry, matting, linen.
• bed linen: linen and cotton materials, silk;
• furniture: jacquard, tapestry, dralon, tweed, diagonal, mixed fabrics (polyester with cotton, elastane).

Special fabrics – textiles with increased performance characteristics.

Used for sewing products:

• workwear: diagonal, canvas, greta, twill, spunbond;
• equipment (tents, sleeping bags, awnings, pavilions, marquees): bologna, greta, tafetta, teflon with cotton;
• car covers: bologna, velor, oxford.

The category of special fabrics includes materials for sewing military uniforms, medical gowns and masks, theatrical costumes, covers for vehicles (cars, boats), flags, church decorations, etc. Most fabrics are treated with special impregnations to protect them from moisture, dirt, wind, and fire.

Technical fabrics are a group of materials intended for industrial needs. Made from synthetic, natural and mineral fibers. They are used for filtering, purification of solutions and gas emissions, hydro- and thermal insulation. Area of ​​use: industrial production, construction, rescue work, oil and gas industry, etc.

Types of fabrics for clothing

The most extensive group of materials. The main task that textiles perform is to make things for protection. it includes fabrics produced by weaving, knitting, felting or gluing.

Fabrics for sewing clothes are distinguished by type of product:

• coats: boucle (fabric and knitwear), gabardine, cashmere, drape, cloth;
• jackets: bologna, raincoat fabric, myrofiber;
• costume: diagonal, wool, wool mixture, gabardine, tiar, linen, memory. stretch cotton, velor, satin, corduroy, jacquard.
• Dress materials: viscose, guipure, satin, crepe, crepe de Chine, silk, linen, wool, chintz, chiffon, flannel.
• trousers: tweed, gabardine, wool with silk, linen with silk, denim, linen, twill, polyester, poplin.
• skirts: cambric, gabardine, cotton, chiffon, polyester, wool, satin.

In addition to these types, clothing fabrics are distinguished according to seasonality, purpose (everyday, dressy, uniform, etc.), and age of the consumer. Separately, they produce textiles for children's clothing, underwear and bed linen, fancy dress costumes, ballroom costumes, swimsuits (beach, sports), etc.

Variety of manufacturing techniques

All types of fabric differ not only in composition, properties, and purpose. Texture, appearance, and active sensations are provided by different production techniques.

1. Smooth: can be matte or shiny. Characteristic for satin, satin weave. Found in silk, viscose, and cotton.
2. Rough (crepe): matte surface with a fine-grained structure. Achieved by using threads of various twists and densities. Examples: crepe de chine, crepe georgette, pique knitwear.
3. Cloquet: The surface of a material in the form of bubble formations that form a pattern. The effect is achieved by double weaving different fibers (for example, viscose with nylon). Found in applied knitted jacquard.
4. Corrugated: fabric laid in thick folds.
5. Tapestry: achieved by interlacing threads of varying density and elasticity. The pattern is formed during weaving or applied to the finished fabric.
6. Felt-like: uniform texture in the form of randomly located fibers (cloth, drape, flannel).
7. Pile: a surface with fluffy hairs cut off at the ends (velvet, velor, corduroy, chenille). They can be on one side of the fabric (soft) or on both. A type of uncut looped pile is terry cloth.
8. Crash (reaper): material with persistent folds and dents. The effect is achieved by pressing the finished canvas.
9. Shaped: formed in knots, curls (bouclé).

In addition, melange is very popular - knitwear and material woven from multi-colored fibers.