Velvet - what is it, composition and types of fabric, application

Velvet is a cut pile fabric that is produced by weaving five threads, four of which in pairs form the warp, and the fifth is cut pile.

Velvet fabric has long been used to create beautiful and sophisticated clothes and outfits. The material has a thick vertical pile on the front side. Velvet fabric is created from both chemical fibers and natural silk. In this review, we have provided the most complete information about this amazing material, its types, features of use and care.

"Velvet" story

This is a very ancient fabric, which was known back in the 3rd century BC. The Chinese were the first to produce luxurious fabrics. In the 8th-9th century it migrated to Byzantium. And in the 13th century, Italy became acquainted with velvet and fell in love with it to such an extent that in 1247 the weavers of Venice and Genoa united and created a joint guild for the production of this elite fabric. Italian velvet began to gradually spread throughout Europe. They took him through Novgorod along the northern route and to Rus'. But they rarely bought fabric. Usually traded for hemp or furs. Own production in Russia began only in 1623, when the Velvet Court was created. German merchants shared technology with Russian weavers.

The name of the fabric has German roots. In Germany it was called barchent. The word was adapted to the Russian language and turned into “velvet”.

The high status of textiles is evidenced by the paintings of painters. Charles VII, Napoleon Bonaparte, Elizabeth I are depicted in portraits in velvet outfits that look expensive and chic. In Russia, the royal chambers were decorated with scarlet velvet. And in France they even wanted to ban it in 1543. Due to the high cost of the material, the richest nobles went bankrupt on its purchases. However, even exorbitant prices could not prevent the victorious march of velvet across countries and continents.

In Russia, after the overthrow of the autocracy, the painting was forgotten and its popularity fell somewhat. But in the 60s of the twentieth century, the fashion for soft, iridescent material was revived by the legendary group the Beatles. With the light hand of the Liverpool Four, velvet regained its former glory and never lost it again. Thanks to automation of the production process and synthetic additives, the fabric has become cheaper and today is available to everyone.

Reviews

Galina: A black velvet dress with a simple cut did not look amazing to me in combination with a pearl necklace. This is such an exquisite and noble material that does not need complex cutting and draping to show all its beauty.

Alena: Velvet curtains have been decorating our living room for several years. I want to say that I rarely wash them, as I get by with regular vacuuming and airing.

Masha: My husband and I chose velvet as upholstery for the sofa. We greatly regretted this when we got a cat. It leaves all the hair on the upholstery and is very difficult to clean off.

Texture Features

The dense material has a complex texture. This is explained by production technology. It is made using 5 threads. 4 create the base, and the 5th forms a pile up to 5 mm long. But only the front side is fleecy. The inner surface remains smooth. The tactility of the fabric is heterogeneous. It can be smooth or rough. It all depends on additional processing in production.

The highlight of velvet is its rainbow tints, which enhance its aesthetics and charm. Changing lighting makes the fabric look different and shine with a subdued shine. The fabric also shimmers when you move, so in velvet suits or dresses you will always look festive, elegant, and unusual.

It is the texture features that are “to blame” for the appearance of many phraseological units. Velvet skin (delicate), velvet season (warm), velvet revolution (soft, bloodless).

Making velvet

There are 2 production methods:

1. Split. 2 canvases are connected to each other with an additional thread, which is subsequently cut. The result is a shaggy, fuzzy top and a smooth, soft underside.
2. Looped. First, the fabric is knitted using special equipment, and then loops are pulled out of it and cut. It also produces a dense, delicate fabric with iridescence.

Today, textiles are produced by many foreign manufacturers. Raymakers (Netherlands) offers plain velvet in a variety of shades. Gierlings Velpor (Portugal) is considered the best manufacturer of jacquard material with a natural composition. At Rekor (Türkiye) you can find canvases with a degradation effect. The Italian Gross supplies mainly upholstery fabric - with embroidery, prints, pleated.

Fabric decoration technologies

Initially, the royal fabric was only one-color. Even without patterns, she looked status-conscious and impressive. But the modern textile industry has stepped far forward, which allows decor to be applied in different ways. Among them:

• printing: the design is applied to the surface using printing;
• embossing: the pile is laid out in different directions, after which the layout is secured with a hot press;
• embroidery: created by program-controlled embroidery machines;
• patterned weaving: combine different types of fiber weaving, obtaining unusual relief and patterns;
• etching: individual threads are dissolved with chemical compounds, which creates beautiful textured effects;
• indentation: processing of individual areas with special brushes. As a result, an ornament remains on the surface, as if pressed in.

Decor can also be created using fittings. The cost of printed, patterned material is higher than its plain counterparts.

What does flocking give?

Flocking is an innovative technology often used for decorative finishing of materials. The process involves velvet spraying, creating a fleecy surface. Moreover, you can apply fluffy pile not only to fabric. Flock improves the aesthetics of leather, plastic, wood, glass, paper.

Spraying can be continuous or selective. The flock is based on polyamide or viscose, so this type of pile can be easily distinguished from natural one.

Flocking is not only a decorative tool. It also improves quality characteristics - thermal insulation, mechanical strength. Products treated with flock remain unchanged in color for 6-7 years, and the ignition temperature increases to 400-550 degrees.

Types of velvet

Refined material is heterogeneous. There are 3 large groups, which include many subspecies. The criteria for dividing into groups are composition, types of fabric textures, and areas of application.

By composition

Depending on the raw materials used, velvet can be:

1. Silk. The matte shine gives the delicate, flowing fabric a special charm.
2. Cotton. Dense, even a little rough visually, but very soft in feel.
3. Synthetic. It can be recognized by its glossy shine. Marble velvet, which contains polyester and elastane, is especially valued. It gives beautiful optical effects when lighting changes. It does not look flashy, but strictly and restrained. Therefore, clothes made from it, like from suit crepe, are suitable for any age.
4. Mixed. Synthetic fibers are added to natural fibers. The stretch with elastane received good reviews. This look is often chosen by young people. Thanks to the additive, outfits are tight-fitting and beautifully highlight the contours of the body.

For a long time, velvet was made only from silk, which is why it was incredibly expensive. Today in the premium segment you can find completely silk analogues. For example, from the Indian manufacturer ZENITH. But more often other fibers are chosen for production.

There is a natural product that contains palm leaves and bark. This is Kasai velvet. It is produced only in the Republic of Congo. The decorative qualities of such textiles are high, so they are usually used for sewing bedspreads.

By fabric

Velvet fabrics differ in production technique, tactility, and appearance. There are many types of fabric, and new ones continue to appear. Today the textile industry offers:

• chiffon: considered the lightest type, with a translucent thin base and constant shimmer;
• bagheera: on the contrary, very dense textiles, with a slightly rough surface. But some roughness does not prevent evening jackets and dresses made from bagheera from looking luxurious and expensive;
• Lyon: perhaps the heaviest of all varieties. Hard, dense, with synthetic threads in the composition. Often used when sewing curtains;
• sisel: distinguished by its looped structure, which is clearly visible upon examination;
• eraser: a distinctive feature is a longitudinal scar. The pliable fabric drapes well;
• mother of pearl: made from threads of silk of different colors. It is characterized by magical shimmer and bright tints;
• moire (or crash): has piles of different lengths, which explains the visual effect of a slight bruise;
• devore: silk base with viscose pile. The production uses etching, which results in unusual patterns;
• trip: uncommon. The base is made of wool fibers. Outerwear is usually made from tripe;
• stretch: the presence of elastic additives allows the material to stretch well and restore its original shape.

Pleated velvet, which undergoes additional processing, is also popular. A characteristic feature of pleated fabric is its accordion texture (small folds). This material is suitable for skirts, blouses, sundresses. It drapes well, emphasizes natural curves, but is quite heavy.

By application

Velvet is also divided according to the purpose of use.

Advantages of the material

The popularity of the material was ensured by:

• softness: delicate pile is pleasant to the body, does not prick;
• wear resistance: the dense texture is not subject to snags; with proper care, abrasions and bald spots do not appear on the front side;
• dimensional stability: the material does not stretch, the sleeves do not sag;
• aesthetics: the material has long been recognized as an indicator of status.

Artificial textiles have a bright shine and impeccably even pile. Natural velvet also shimmers. But its shine resembles shimmer - matte and muted.

Properties

Luxurious fabric with delicate noble tints, has good drape, softness and a rich appearance.

Advantages:

• pleasant to tactile sensations;
• density varies from 300 to 600 g;
• natural is hygroscopic, allows moisture to pass through and does not become electrified;
• beautiful and aesthetic appearance;
• durability in use;
• with its natural composition it does not cause allergies;
• sewn products fit well to the figure, do not deform or stretch during wear.

Minuses:

• color changes when exposed to direct sunlight;
• The density of the fabric does not allow it to dry quickly;
• the pile quickly becomes dirty and clogged with dust;
• Requires gentle ironing.

Flaws

Along with admiration, velvet sometimes causes discontent. Noble fabric requires special treatment. Its fibers attract dust, and without proper care, the products will look sloppy and untidy. Improper ironing can disrupt the structure of the pile, which will also reduce the attractiveness of the material.

If the canvas is not treated with special impregnations, it quickly fades in the sun: its shine is lost and the color becomes dull. In addition, the dense material takes a long time to dry.

conclusions

1. Clothes made from this material never go out of fashion and are always relevant.
2. You can safely combine velvet with other fabrics; it will go well with cotton, silk, and wool.
3. With proper care, things will last a long time without losing quality. It is important to know how to properly wash, iron, dry fabric and remove dust.
4. The use of pile materials in the interior of a home is evidence and distinction of subtle taste. And one hundred percent resistance to abrasion of the surface can be achieved by using anti-vandal fabric for furniture.

Areas of application

Velvet cannot be called an everyday material. It is used on special occasions, serves to decorate the interior, decorate, and create a rich environment. These features of textiles determined the scope of its use. Sew from fabric:

1. Clothing for men and women: jackets, jackets, trousers, coats. For this purpose, cotton and wool analogues are mainly used. Silk is less common because it is very expensive.
2. Shoes: it is recommended to wear them only indoors. This is an evening option. Velvet decor is often found in the decoration of shoes and boots.
3. Accessories: a handbag or gloves to match the sandals will add aristocracy to the look. Berets and velvet hats are popular.
4. Home textiles: curtains, tablecloths, decorative pillows, and bedspreads will add gloss to any interior.
5. Furniture upholstery: wear-resistant due to additional processing. We also produce festive covers for chairs and poufs.
6. Theatrical costumes and scenery: velvet, like no other, can convey the atmosphere of past eras and create a feeling of celebration.
7. Jewelry cases: jewelry in a velvet box seems to look more elegant and sparkle brighter

The canvas is also used in painting. They paint on it with oil paints. Such paintings have a special glow from within, and the image, depending on the viewing angle, can change.

Let's look into the depths of centuries

Like all silk, velvet most likely first appeared in China, and it reached Europe in the early Middle Ages along the legendary Silk Road. The mesmerizing beauty of imported fabric and its incredible high cost pushed the craftsmen of Europe to create their own material. The year 1242 became famous in history for the appearance in Venice of the first workshop for the production of European velvet.

Read about: Loden fabric: softer than felt, denser than drape.

While in the West the foundations for the production of wonderful fabrics were being laid, in the East Ancient Rus' was mired in feudal strife and battles with the Horde. For many centuries, our ancestors had to restore the sovereign economy and trade relations. Before the reign of Peter the Great, Italian, German and even Spanish velvet was exchanged for native Russian goods: furs, timber, honey and hemp. The first domestic velvet began to be produced only at the beginning of the 17th century.

To this day, this rather expensive material firmly occupies its own specific niche of use. Decorations and theatrical costumes, wonderful curtains, stunning furniture upholstery are made from magnificent fabrics, and leading fashion houses update their collections every year.

Rules for choosing royal material

To avoid disappointment with your purchase, you need to:

• correctly calculate the fabric consumption. For simple styles, it is advisable to buy 20% more. For complex ones – by 40%. Consumption increases due to the need to observe the direction of the pile;
• take into account the intended purpose. 100% cotton is not used for clothing due to its roughness. But it is suitable for collars, valves, cuffs. Mixed velvet will produce products with soft folds. Chiffon or velvet coated items are good for evening wear;
• carefully examine the canvas. If creases and abrasions are visible on it, then it is a defect.

The price depends on the composition. The cost of cotton velvet is about 500 rubles per meter. Silk - can reach up to 1500 per meter. The cheapest is synthetic. Some types cost 150-200 rubles.

Sewing features

Velvet is quite difficult to work with. All cut details must have the same pile direction. Before sewing, you need to install a new needle. Be sure to be thin - No. 70 or No. 80. For elastic material, a needle with a rounded end is required so as not to disturb the structure of the fibers. Stitch length – no more than 2.5 mm. When working with collars and cuffs, it is better to use thin duplerin. This way they will not stretch and will retain clear contours for a long time.

All defects and errors are clearly visible on the velvet surface. Therefore, it is better to avoid complex seams.

Velvet and similar fabrics

Velvet is often confused with other pile fabrics, but there are differences between them.

In England, velvet is called velvet, and in France - velours, but these are different types of fabric, and their characteristics are not similar to each other.

How to distinguish it from others (pomvelvet on mesh, corduroy, velor) and what is the difference

What is the difference between velvet and velor? According to the description, this material has thick and long pile. It is softer and less dense. Cotton, wool or mixed fibers can be used as a base. Corduroy has a texture in the form of longitudinal ridges on the front side, and velvet is smooth. The main property of corduroy is that it practically does not wrinkle. What is the difference between velvet and pomvelvet. Mesh velvet features a mesh backing that has delicate patterns stitched into it. The result is very beautiful embroidery that can be used for evening dresses.

Photos of beautiful bedspreads for a girl’s nursery can be viewed at the link.

Nuances of care

Velvet fabric is quite capricious. But if you follow simple rules, it will last for many years without losing its original appearance and basic characteristics. Among the main recommendations:

1. It is not advisable to wash natural textiles. It is better to take it to the dry cleaner. For synthetic varieties, washing is allowed. But this must be done manually, at a temperature not exceeding 40 degrees.
2. Do not twist the fabric. It is lightly wrung out by hand and hung on hangers, allowing the water to drain.
3. Products can be dried flat on a horizontal surface. To make the moisture evaporate faster, the velvet is wrapped in a cotton towel.
4. Iron pressure and horizontal ironing can irreparably damage the pile. It is best to iron things vertically using steam.
5. Store velvet items on hangers. To prevent them from fading and collecting dust, it is recommended to use breathable covers.

The popularity of velvet is quite natural. After all, it radiates sophistication and nobility, looks elegant and aristocratic.

Complex, muted shades are popular this season: marsala, cobalt blue, dark plum, wine, graphite. Black remains timeless and fashionable. Printed velvet is more suitable for autumn and winter. It makes stylish men's and women's suits, jackets, jackets.

Analogues: velor, cotton-based plush, stretch

The most famous analogues are the following materials:

• plush;
• velours;
• stretch velor.

The plush is made on a cotton base. It is similar to the original with fluffy and delicate pile, which is longer and not as dense. Velor is a knitted fabric with a fluffy surface. The base is pure wool yarn. Stretch velor contains elastane, which allows you to sew tailored clothing with a tight cut from it.