“Gipure fabulous pattern...” History and modernity of lace making and embroidery

Guipure immediately differs from other fabrics with its airy and delicate appearance due to the elegant combination of fine mesh with intricate lace. The type of lace can be very diverse. The most common options are with a floral or oriental pattern.

Guipure is a thin mesh fabric with convex lace, most often natural or with a small amount of synthetic impurities. This fabric feels soft and pleasant to the touch.

The material can be made from natural, synthetic or mixed fibers. Commonly used cotton, linen, wool, polyester, lycra, viscose and lurex. The threads are woven on special knitting, curtain and knitting machines, using complex leno or openwork weaving.

It is believed that this exquisite canvas first appeared in Ancient Egypt. It came to Europe only in the 16th century, immediately falling in love with local rich ladies who began decorating their outfits with guipure for going out. Initially, the material was made entirely by hand. Many women's dresses of the Renaissance abound in guipure lace with a variety of patterns.

Lace, which is an integral part of this material, can be located throughout the fabric or occupy its upper or lower parts. Thus, products decorated with this decor look very elegant and at the same time gentle, neat and sophisticated.

Guipure and the history of its creation

Since ancient times, lace has attracted the eye and fascinated.
Graceful, flowing, thin, like a gossamer - that's all about it. The first information about lace comes to us from ancient times. Even on ancient Egyptian mummies, clothes with elements of lace embroidery were seen. The first laces were woven nets decorated with embroidery. Embroidery, which was the ancestor of lace, was widespread in many parts of the world, so it is impossible to clearly determine where lace fabrics originated.

Guipure dates back to the 16th century in Europe. The first information about him comes from Italy. The word guipure comes from the French “guiper” - “to braid”. The fabric consisted of separate woven elements connected to each other by airy thread bundles. Lace elements were woven with a needle or bobbins, using silk or cotton threads. Initially, guipure patterns were quite simple, and, as a rule, were floral patterns. “Venetian” guipure was especially famous. But fashion does not stand still, and lace patterns became more and more complex and intricate. In the 17th century, “voluminous guipure” with protruding elements appeared.

The area of ​​guipure production also expanded. In the 17th century, a manufactory for the production of this material was opened in France. The main difference from French lace is the very small and elegant pattern, in contrast to the rather large Venetian print. For wealthy citizens, natural linen threads began to be used in the production of guipure, as well as gold and silver components were added. The cost of such guipures, of course, was high, and not everyone could afford them.

Separately, we should talk about guipure or, as it is also called, “stitch embroidery”. This technique developed at the end of the 19th century in Nizhny Novgorod and consisted of embroidery on a large-mesh mesh (cells with a side of 0.5-0.7 cm). The base mesh was filled with an openwork pattern, ranging from dense ornaments to light airy hems.

A little about the origin

Openwork fabric appeared in Venice at the end of the 16th century and quickly gained popularity. The name “guipure” was given to Venetian lace with a characteristic textured pattern. The basis for its emergence was the decorative and applied art - lace making, which has a centuries-old history. From the hands of the craftswomen came a fabric with a complex, three-dimensional pattern, woven with crochet or bobbins. It was used for shawls, elaborate scarves and capes. Women's and men's clothing were decorated with patterned collars. The cost of the material was high, affordable only to nobles. In Russia, lace production began at the end of the 19th century in the Nizhny Novgorod province. The motifs for the patterns were plants, animals, birds, monograms and abstract interweaving of threads. The raw material was flax, and later they began to use cotton and silk.

The French call guipure “guipure”, and the British call it “venice lace”.

Properties and features of guipure

Currently, lace is produced using special machines - spinning machines. Modern knitting machines allow you to create a pattern of almost any complexity. To obtain a more acceptable purchasing price, as well as to increase the strength and wear resistance of the material, viscose or synthetic threads are added to its base. Quite often, lycra is used for the base. Guipures made from a mixture of cotton and nylon threads are very common.

Modern guipure is an openwork and transparent, but at the same time quite dense, quite hard to the touch fabric. All guipure canvases have a pronounced three-dimensional pattern, interconnected by a fine mesh. Depending on the ratio of openwork elements and the base mesh, guipure can look completely different. With a small number of dense areas of embroidery, guipure looks more delicate and airy, but at the same time loses its density and becomes very vulnerable to external influences. If the amount of base is too small and most of the fabric is covered with embroidery, then the fabric becomes dense and holds its shape well.

Since guipure consists of different threads, it is quite difficult to dye. Therefore, as a rule, stores offer plain guipures.

What are the differences from lace?

Lace and guipure are often compared to each other. Lace is produced by knitting with special threading devices. It is mainly used as a finishing element. Nowadays, openwork is also created by machine, as it is faster. Lace requires careful care.

Guipure is a ready-to-use fabric that has a mesh, almost always elastic, base on which various fragments of the design are printed or embroidered, and is easy to use. Both techniques are elegant and sophisticated.

Types of guipure

There are cotton, knitted, silk, and synthetic guipures.

• Printed guipure
  - usually based on knitwear or satin with the addition of lycra.
• Plain dyed guipure
  .
• Guipure leather
  - is obtained by gluing guipure onto a very thin natural or artificial leather.
• Elastic or stretch guipure
  is a stretchy lace fabric with the addition of elastane.
• Guipure cord
  - in this type of guipure, an additional pattern is woven into the openwork elements using soutache thread or a thin cord. Due to this, the ornament receives additional relief.
• Biflex guipure
  is an elastic stretch guipure of high quality, characterized by the ability to stretch in both directions

Depending on the size and type of lace ornament, guipure is divided into: guipure with rigid lace, finely patterned, lace guipure, with a geometric or floral ornament, guipure mesh (a small amount of very small ornament)

Quite often, lurex and metanite are added to the composition of the main elements for greater attractiveness and to give a metallic shine.

Design solutions

In addition to traditional looks, canvases are produced that attract with their rich appearance and beauty.

• Coupon - with stripes embroidered with silk thread patterns or along the edge;
• stretch with pistons;
• jacquard;
• report - with a repeating pattern;
• embroidered with braid.

Features of care

Guipure, despite being a fairly tough fabric, requires special care.

It must be washed in warm water, at a temperature of approximately 30-40 degrees. Hand wash is preferred, but a washing machine can be used on the delicate or hand wash cycle. If a product made of guipure has few lace elements and the connecting mesh predominates, then it is still better to refuse automatic washing. The probability of the guipure breaking is quite high. Particularly thin and openwork guipures can become deformed and lose their shape when washed in a washing machine. Spinning guipure in a washing machine centrifuge is contraindicated. It is better to squeeze the products manually without using strong twisting or compression. The product must be dried flat, preferably on a horizontal surface.

Guipure should be ironed at low temperature, in the “Silk” mode. It is advisable to use humidifiers or damp gauze.

Where is this fabric used?

This fabric is used for sewing:

• casual clothes (skirts, dresses);
• wardrobe items for special occasions;
• stage costumes.

Guipure is often used for decoration:

• wedding dresses;
• hats;
• women's bags;
• bedding;
• gloves and other accessories.

This openwork fabric has also found application in the production of home textiles. Decorated with guipure:

• tablecloths;
• napkins;
• lampshades;
• bedspreads and capes;
• curtains;
• canopies.

Guipure is widely used in needlework. Needlewomen make decorative items and jewelry from it. With its help, they breathe new life into boring or outdated wardrobe items.

What to sew from guipure

Since guipure is a transparent fabric, it itself is used only for sewing decorative and finishing elements: a collar, a small shelf or insert, gloves, elements of underwear. But guipure goes well with many fabrics, such as satin, silk, cream, etc. This combination is at once elegant and sophisticated, yet practical and functional. The base fabric adds the necessary strength to the guipure and keeps it from stretching and deformation, which makes the item more durable, but does not detract from its airiness and beauty.

Guipure dresses have been attracting numerous glances for many, many years; intricate patterns and weaves enchant and fascinate. It is not without reason that many stars and designers opt for evening dresses made of guipure. There is plenty of room for creativity! If you need an elegant, discreet option, opt for a guipure model with a matte lining to match the main material. Guipure dresses in neutral beige or cream colors are perfect for summer. They will make a wonderful ensemble with a classic jacket or a small bolero.

For a brighter look, consider a contrasting sheath dress. A dress made of black guipure with a lining of flesh-colored fabric looks very bold and sexy. This combination creates the effect of a naked body under a thin guipure outfit. A special niche is occupied by wedding guipure dresses. A short sheath dress, a long elegant mermaid dress, a frivolous vintage dress - the bride will be irresistible in any of these outfits. One of the most popular classic options is a fluffy dress with a guipure top.

Whatever the chosen style, the following remains unchanged: guipure is luxurious and beautiful in itself, therefore it practically does not require additional decorations and accessories. Excessive accessories can overload the dress and even make it vulgar.

Guipure tops and blouses deserve special attention. The choice of models is so wide that they will suit any wardrobe, from a business suit to shorts and jeans.

How to choose the right guipure dress

Short dresses are more suitable for long-legged, slender representatives of the fairer sex. Fitted models can easily be used both at a celebration and on everyday business trips.

A long dress will add femininity, and choosing a fabric with a small pattern will hide your figure if necessary.

Asymmetrical length, as a tribute to fashion, is used with high-heeled shoes. The image of lightness and charm is guaranteed to the owner of such an outfit.

Lighter shades of fabric suit thin and slender girls, while obese women prefer to pay attention to darker colors of clothing.

The ideal evening dress involves a strict tailoring style with an open neckline and bare arms. If the image must correspond to a business style, then sleeves must be present, and the length of the dress can remain maximum.

Cold tones of the material visually hide figure flaws and slim the girl, reducing her actual size. Partial trim of the dress with lace guipure emphasizes the advantages of selected fragments of the dress and silhouette.

Among the fashionable styles are dresses in the mermaid, sheath, and Greek styles. Skirts are almost never made from guipure as a separate type of clothing.

Guipure with synthetic base

What to wear with guipure dresses

Neat sandals with small heels remain a win-win option for any outfit. Ballet flats or pumps reflect a retro style and require an addition in the form of a small handbag. In country style, it is recommended to wear boots, a leather jacket and ethnic accessories. An evening dress is associated with the presence of a clutch and high-heeled shoes.

Guipure inserts

Compound

Initially, guipure fabric was silk, hence the name - guipure. Now synthetic and artificial fibers are introduced into the composition: viscose, acrylic, elastane. These additives change the characteristics of the material: they increase strength and elasticity, and make the fabric thinner or denser as needed. Metallized thread significantly improves the aesthetic properties of the openwork - the embroidery becomes more expressive and elegant.

Polyester lace is cheaper and more often used in the manufacture of casual clothing and interior items. However, global brands do not use it, preferring silk variations made in France and Italy.

Flaws

The material has many disadvantages. Firstly, it is impractical. Secondly, it is expensive, and even synthetic varieties are much higher in price than smooth fabrics. This is due to the production technology and purpose of the openwork. Among other disadvantages:

• low strength;
• significant rigidity, which is acquired through dense embroidery;
• vulnerability to mechanical damage - the mesh fabric can catch on any protrusion.

With careful handling and proper care, the fabric will last a long time and will delight you with unsurpassed beauty.

Advantages

Guipure fabric is created for elegant clothes. For this reason, she often appears in evening and wedding looks. Aesthetic properties surpass practical ones, but this is precisely why the material is valued. Products made from knitted fabric are more practical and easy to care for. Regardless of the variety, there are some advantages for all types of fabric:

• allows air to pass through well;
• not prone to creasing;
• combines with other noble materials: silk, velvet, satin;
• has low weight;
• dries quickly when wet;
• has good drapability.

The material is comfortable to sew and holds its shape, which eliminates the need to frequently steam the product.