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Wool fabric: a little history, as well as varieties and properties
A little history.
Wool is a large group of fabrics of natural origin, the source of which is animal fiber. Wool in its pure form or with various modern additives is widely used for the production of winter wardrobe fabrics, dress fabrics, suiting fabrics, and knitwear. The main specificity of wool is that it retains heat well.
Since man was able to domesticate goats and sheep, raw materials for the production of wool have become readily available - wool and felt have been used by the most ancient civilizations. Before scissors were invented, raw materials were mined using combs or by hand. Some archaeological excavations indicate that wool was known as early as 1500 BC. Wool fibers from wild goats have been found in prehistoric caves in the Republic of Georgia and date back as far as 34,000 BC!
During the times of Ancient Rome, wool, along with leather and linen, was popular in Europe. The records of Pliny the Elder noted that the residents of Tarentum were considered to have the best reputation for wool producers, where, thanks to special care, they bred sheep with excellent wool.
This is the kind of bleached woolen toga worn by the politicians of Ancient Rome.
In the Middle Ages, the wool trade became a serious business and the main generator of capital formation. The importance of wool for the development of the English economy is evidenced by the fact that since the 14th century the presiding officer of the House of Lords sat on a “woolsack” - a chair “stuffed” with wool.
Properties of wool fabrics.
The advantages of wool fabrics include the fact that they get dirty a little and hardly wrinkle. Sometimes it is enough to hang woolen clothes on hangers to make wrinkled folds disappear.
Odors of sweat, food, and smoke quickly disappear from woolen fabrics.
The surface of woolen fabrics repels water droplets, but absorbs moisture in the form of steam (it absorbs up to 35-40% of its weight in moisture, remaining dry and warm to the touch), this is the reason for choosing this material for sewing thermal underwear.
Care.
Wash woolen items only by hand with powders intended for wool. The maximum water temperature when washing is 30 C. When washing, the item should not be rubbed or twisted. Finished wool (wool that tolerates the “wool” mode well when washed in an automatic machine) can be machine washed at 30C in the wool mode.
Woolen items should not be dried in a dryer, on radiators or in the sun. You need to iron wool with moisture in the “wool” mode.
Wool of different animals.
Sheep wool is perhaps the most common. It heats well and has a low price; very durable. There are different types of sheep wool:
Lambswool is the wool of lambs obtained from their first shearing. Soft, pleasant to the touch, valued higher than the wool of adult sheep and costs a little more. Widely used by clothing and fabric manufacturers.
Merino wool is the wool of Merino sheep, warm, soft and light. Clothes made from merino wool are more expensive than clothes made from ordinary sheep. It feels more pleasant and looks more noble.
Shetland (Shetland; Scots) is a rough but wear-resistant wool from the Shetland Islands (part of Scotland). Rough, quite rigid, used for sweaters (especially with embossed patterns such as “pigtail”/”harness”) and fabrics for informal jackets and coats. A good option for the winter - for those who love country style.
Cheviot is wool from Scottish Cheviot sheep. It costs expensive; It is highly durable, warm, but at the same time very hard and rough. Used for the production of fairly heavy and rough fabrics (tweeds). One of the classic materials for British tweed jackets and suits.
Angora is the wool of Angora rabbits. Some people confuse angora with mohair. Very soft, fluffy and delicate to the touch; It is thick and lightly shiny. Durable and very comfortable; not prone to shrinkage; warm. At the same time, it is delicate: it should be cleaned only in trusted establishments and with care; It is also very advisable to avoid getting angora products wet. Many sellers pass off mohair as angora.
Camel wool is very warm and at the same time quite light and durable; elastic and practical to wear. It is usually used in combination with sheep wool in the manufacture of pullovers, coats, and sweaters. An excellent option, but quite expensive.
Vigoña (vicuna) is very thin, delicate and soft to the touch, and also warm wool of vicunas - animals from the camelid family that live in the Andes. The wool is collected by hand and is very scarce. Products made from vigoni are extremely rare on sale due to their high cost - in fact, it is the most expensive wool in the world. Prices can be fantastically high. Vicuna is woven into fabrics for coats and suits, typically selling for tens of thousands of dollars.
Cashmere ( Cashmere ) is a very light and at the same time very warm wool yarn, which is made from the wool of Himalayan goats (originally produced in the Indian state of Kashmir; now it is made not only in India, but also in China and Mongolia, as well as a number of other countries) . This is an expensive, delicate and very delicate material that is not highly wear-resistant. Looks elegant and doesn't wrinkle. Cashmere items are not difficult to find, but the prices for good cashmere items are high; Cashmere is often mixed with regular wool and/or polyamide.
Mohair is the shorn wool of Angora goats. It warms well, is durable and quite light, practically does not wrinkle. Usually has a specific shine, very noticeable. The wool of Angora goats is often supplemented with sheep wool and sometimes with the synthetic material acrylic. Mohair is produced mainly in three countries: the USA, Turkey and South Africa. Mohair fabrics are used for jackets and coats; thin mohair fabrics are used for tuxedos.
Alpaca wool. Alpacas are llamas that are bred in the highlands of the Andes. Their wool is very light (much lighter than sheep's wool), waterproof, slightly shiny and very, very warm, much warmer than sheep's wool and cashmere. Scarves are made from alpaca knitwear; alpaca fabrics are used to produce expensive suits; The lining of premium gloves can also be made from alpaca wool. Overall, alpaca is an excellent option and, although more expensive than merino wool, is cheaper than vicuna wool.
In fairness, it must be added that pure angora or mohair is rarely found in fabrics, and due to practicality, more often it is only one of the types of wool in the fabric composition.
Types of wool by processing method
First of all, it is worth saying that woolen products can be made either by hand knitting (many sweaters, scarves, gloves, etc.) or from knitwear (pullovers, jumpers, etc. - “machine knitting” ), from felt and from fabric. We will focus on the types of woolen fabrics.
Knitted fabric (which is made from yarn in a special way) is elastic, stretchable and soft, but does not look as formal and strict as woven items (for example, jackets).
Knitted wool fabric can be varied - thick (jersey), double, printed, thin and light (some are transparent).
Suits, trousers, jackets, jackets, skirts and many other items of clothing are made from fabrics . According to the method of spinning, woolen fabrics are divided into worsted and cloth; cloth ones, in turn, are thin and coarse. As for the so-called consumer properties, worsted fabrics are distinguished by their thinness and smoothness, and are used mainly in the production of suits; fine cloth fabrics are already thicker and denser, they are used to make informal jackets and suits, as well as coats; coarse cloth - even thicker, even stronger and rougher, usually used for making country-style coats and jackets.
Types of wool fabrics
Boucle is a thick and rough woolen fabric from which coats, short coats, jackets, informal jackets and jackets are sewn. Quite original, but not everyone likes it. The surface is embossed, with knots and loops, as if pulled out of fabric.
A voluminous knitted wool fabric, which also includes angora.
Gabardine is a dense, wear-resistant and durable fabric with a diagonal (twill) weave of threads, from which raincoats, jackets, short coats and coats are sewn. It can be not only woolen, but also cotton. By the way, gabardine was invented by the founder of the famous English company Burberry, Thomas Burberry. The photo below shows a gabardine coat from Burberry.
Drape is a heavy, thick, dense and rough woolen fabric. Slightly “hairy” (hairy). Used to make coats. The drape retains heat well, is breathable, and is inexpensive.
Tweed is a woolen fabric distinguished by its unique texture and pattern. Dense and durable, rough; It can be heavy, but there are also light varieties. Tweed is never completely monochromatic. There are also a large number of tweed varieties in patterns: “chicken foot”, “dog tooth”, “shepherd’s check” and others.
Flannel - comes in both wool and cotton. Soft and cozy, distinguished by its lightness and velvety, partly fluffy surface; Retains heat quite well. Doesn't like moisture very much and takes a long time to dry.
Stretch wool is a fabric made from wool with the addition of elastane (2-5% of the total composition); clothes made from it wrinkle less. Practical material with all the advantages of “stretchy” fabrics.
Matting (Sack cloth / Sackcloth / Gunny) . Fabric with a weave that forms a kind of very small embossed check. Used in particular for classic blazers. Breathes well.
Whipcord . Woolen (but often also cotton) fabric with a diagonal rib (thin diagonal raised stripes) is used for sewing informal trousers, dresses, skirts, jackets.
Barathea . _ _ A soft fabric with a diagonal (twill) weave and a slightly textured surface. It can be made from both wool and silk, and from a mixture of wool and silk.
Fresco . Light woolen fabric used for sewing summer jackets and suits. A bit harsh, but breathes well.
Today, the variety of textures and colors is very diverse. Sometimes woolen fabric looks so unusual that doubts arise about its “woolen” origin.
Here is wool with a discreet pattern and loose texture that makes it look like linen.
Gauze wool, thin, transparent, light, but nevertheless 100% wool.
The harvester wool, with a bright entic pattern, is thin, light, and very flexible. Suitable for summer clothes - it will allow air to pass through from outside and remove excess moisture.
Wool fabric with elastane and velor print is smooth, dense, but not bulky. More like denim...Look, WOOL!!
This is my first publication, so I will be glad to see any additions and corrections. Thank you!
