What types of suits are there and how to choose the right fabric?

What type of fabric is this?

The suit fabric is intended for sewing business, work and everyday wear. This kind of fabric can have different composition.

Suit colors

It can contain either only natural or artificial components, or have a mixed composition.

Catalog of fabric made from natural fibers Catalog of fabric made from artificial fibers

Where is it used?

This material is used to make various products. It is used to make skirts, trousers, bed linen, suits, curtains, and dresses. Silk crepe is especially loved by fashion designers, as it is an attractive, practical material. Woolen is used for sewing warm clothes. The material drapes beautifully; it does not need steaming or stitching to preserve its shape.

It can be used to decorate and complement other products . It is often used as a lining. Some varieties are used for furniture upholstery, because the material perfectly repels dust and does not absorb excess moisture. Its shades retain their richness for a long period of time.

Origin story

The suit didn't always look the same as before. People wore some kind of jackets back in the Copper-Bronze Age; they were replaced by caftans, which were popular for several more centuries. The caftan was replaced by a frock coat, and a little later the products were divided into family, ballroom, and everyday items.

The first traditional men's suit appeared in the 19th century in Great Britain. Over time, straight-cut jackets with a vest and pants, otherwise called business cards, came into fashion. This is how jackets and suit fabric appeared.

Description and quality of fabric

Crepe was originally a silk fabric with a special weave. In the classic material, the fibers are twisted diagonally, like springs. When weaving threads, a simple linen method is used. Alternation occurs with left and right twisting .

Next comes cooking. Thanks to this, the knots relax somewhat, but are firmly located in the places where the threads are intertwined. After all these steps, a material is obtained that has a uniform granular surface.

Twisted fibers are alternated in other ways. One of them is one-sided twisting or only along the corner thread. Double crepe is considered the most elastic. Silk, wool, cotton, synthetic fibers are all materials used to make this fabric.

High-quality material will have the following properties:

1. Strength, wear resistance.
2. Brightness, will not fade over time.
3. Ease.
4. Inelasticity.
5. It won't stretch well.
6. Wrinkle resistance.
7. It will let air through.

Composition and properties

Any costume, regardless of its composition, must meet the general requirements:

Does not wrinkle

Be resistant to wear

Maintain shape

Have a beautiful view

Have permanent coloring

Materials used to create summer suits should allow air to pass through easily, while winter fabrics should retain heat.

Anyone can choose the composition of the costume. The material can be made from natural or artificial fibers, or contain synthetics.

Cost of a meter of fabric

The cost of crepe depends on the composition of the fabric, the manufacturer’s pricing policy, and the quality of the dyes. For example, the average price of one meter of crepe de Chine made from natural silk fibers is 1,500 rubles. Italian fabric from the Armani brand will cost at least 3,500 rubles.

Minimum price of different types of crepe per 1 m:

• crepe jacquard – 300 rubles;
• stretch crepe – 200 rubles;
• artificial crepe de chine – 300 rubles;
• crepe chiffon – 150 rubles;
• crepe georgette – 280 rubles;
• header – 250 rub.;
• crepe knitwear – 300 rubles;
• crepe moss – 400 rubles;
• wool crepe – 600 rubles;
• diving – 200 rub.;
• crepe-satin – 150 rubles;
• rose – 400 rub.;
• pleated crepe – 600 rubles;
• crepe viscose – 500 rub.;
• bubble – 350 rub.;
• crepe-cashibo – 280 rub.

Types and characteristics of materials

Modern varieties of fabrics are becoming more diverse. The main preference when working is given to:

Wool

It perfectly passes air masses and retains thermal energy. Wool fabric is not prone to wrinkles, is resistant, elastic and highly durable. Manufacturers sell thin wool fabrics for summer modifications and denser and warmer ones for the winter collection.

Wool mixture

In such fabrics, synthetic components are added to wool. This makes it possible to make the material stronger and cheaper.

Wool with elastane

A type that, in addition to wool, contains elastane, which saves the product from everyday ironing and stretching. Synthetics improve the main characteristics of wool, which is why clothes retain their shape, providing comfort and an impeccable fit.

Cashmere

This is a luxurious fabric that pleases with softness, lightness, delicacy and nobility. Products made from this material help protect against temperature changes.

Gabardine

This fabric is characterized by small diagonal stripes on the surface of the fabric. Gabardine is soft and elastic, does not deform. Gabardine fabric is made from wool and viscose. But, this is 100% synthetic gabardine, cheap and easy to care for, used as a good material for creating uniforms or special clothing. This fabric is used to create protective clothing for medical workers, employees of companies and government agencies.

tiar

The best type for sewing costume groups. The fabric is soft and warm, does not restrict movement, and drapes easily. Wool provides excellent thermal conductivity, and polyester and elastane make the product keep its shape without stretching.

Linen

For sewing summer clothes, linen fabric is used, which allows air to pass through well and absorbs moisture. Linen products often wrinkle.

Denim

Durable cotton fabric retains its shape well. Denim is quite often used for sewing women's, men's and children's clothes.

Memori

A suiting fabric made entirely of polyester fibers that can take and hold its shape. The fabric does not require ironing, almost does not tear, is not afraid of washing, and has a long-lasting color.

What is crepe

Translated, the word crepe means “rough”. The name is true, as all types of this fabric have a grainy texture. The material is rough to the touch.

The fabric is dense and does not show through. The group includes both light and airy and heavy varieties. The latter are suitable for making suits, coats, curtains, etc.

Another feature of crepe is that the fabric practically does not wrinkle. Creases form only with prolonged improper storage.

Initially, crepe weaving was used primarily for silk threads. Nowadays crepe is made from both natural and artificial fibers.

What fibers are used to produce crepe:

• silk;
• cotton;
• wool;
• viscose;
• polyester;
• polyamide, etc.

Whether or not the crepe stretches cannot be answered unequivocally. It depends on the composition. If the fabric contains enough elastane, some stretching is possible. However, it will not be strong enough due to the fiber twisting technology itself. Materials made from natural threads without elastane are incapable of stretching.

All crepe materials are united by production technology:

1. The fibers twist in different directions: left and right. The tension may be different. On average, there are about 3000 revolutions per 1 m.
2. The resulting threads are woven using plain technology.
3. The finished fabric is processed at high temperature (it is boiled). In this case, some of the knots unwind, but the threads do not separate at the intersection. The texture of the material becomes more pronounced.

Fabric produced using this technology absorbs paint well. Therefore, it rarely sheds or fades.

Silk fibers acquire a special texture when twisted. Some materials are not capable of this. In this case, finely patterned weaving is used.

To watch a story about what can be sewn from fabric:

For what purposes can it be used?

The material is used to create business collections for men and women, and uniforms for schoolchildren. The season is taken into account. For summer, linen, cotton, denim are suitable, for cold weather: wool, tweed, drape.

Tweed

Tweed - what kind of fabric is this? Features and rules of fabric care

more details

Drape

What is drape? What are its properties and features?

more details

Traditional products are made from wool. Casual men's clothing uses a look with 80% wool and synthetics to help retain its shape.

Items from the suit

Certain types of suits are used for home textiles. Curtains and tablecloths do not accumulate dust and do not absorb water.

Types of crepe fabrics

The concept of “crepe” includes a whole group of fabrics. It includes:

• Crepe de Chine. Made from natural silk. It has a rough, non-shiny surface. Doesn't stretch. There are artificial variations of matter.

• Crepe georgette. The fabric is stretchy, elastic, shiny. Airy, but at the same time quite heavy. Maximum weight 1 sq. m of canvas reaches 75 g. It rustles when worn. Density and elasticity are ensured by combining silk fibers with synthetics in weaving.

• Wool crepe The second name of matter is krepun. The material is warm and dense, does not stretch. In production, wool or half-woolen threads are used. Suits and outerwear are made from it.

• Crepe stretch (see stretch). The cheapest, most elastic variety. Consists mainly of synthetic threads with a high polyester content. The fabric is quite thin and stretches.

• Crepe chiffon. Translucent, airy material with a matte surface. At the same time rough and slippery to the touch. Dress material is mainly used for sewing sundresses, blouses, and skirts. This type of crepe is used to create trim on hats, bags, etc. Silk, synthetic, and cotton fibers are used in production.

• Crepe jacquard. Dense heavy canvas with a printed pattern. Often used as curtain fabric.

• Moss. A translucent airy material with shiny threads woven into it. Used for sewing light summer clothes, tulle.

• Crepe jersey. Synthetic, thin, well-stretchable material. Fits tightly to the body.

• Rose. The main feature of this variety is the relief in the form of strokes. The fabric is breathable and quite dense. Suitable for sewing jumpers, T-shirts. It doesn't stretch well.

• Crepe satin. Made from silk or synthetic fibers woven using satin technology. On the back side the material is embossed, and on the front side it is smooth and iridescent. Used to create evening looks and stage costumes.

• Pleated crepe. During production, strips of wax are applied to individual pieces of fabric. The canvas is immersed in a chemical solution, under the influence of which the untreated areas are compressed. Then the wax is removed, pleating is obtained. Skirts and dresses are made from fabric.

• Reaper. Made from natural materials, does not have elasticity. Often decorated with bright prints. Used for sewing bed linen.

• Crepe viscose. Reminiscent of cotton, but drapes well. The material is pleasant to wear.

• Marroquin. It has a pronounced relief, since its production uses tightly twisted natural fibers. Capable of minimal stretch. Used for the production of costumes.

• Bubble Synthetic fabric with bubble relief.

• Diving. Thick fabric that stretches well. It was invented relatively recently. The most popular diving color is black.

• Crepe Kashibo. Translucent but dense breathable fabric with a textured surface. Made from polyester fabrics.

Sometimes crepe is confused with materials that are produced using similar technology:

1. Barbie. It differs from crepe in its smooth, non-embossed surface. The production technology is different in that at the initial stage the fibers are not twisted.
2. Software This is a whole group of soft tissues. To produce such fibers, the threads are twisted. Unlike crepe, the material is brushed.
3. Punto (or punta). This is a good stretchy type of knitwear. Its fibers are twisted, but using a different technology.

Features of suit fabric

Suiting refers to a separate category of materials from which all types of business and official clothing for women and men are sewn. This includes trousers, skirts, overalls, jackets, jackets, dresses. For men's products, denser and stiffer woolen and wool blend fabrics are chosen. For women's clothing, soft fabric with a sparse structure is preferable.

The main criteria for the quality of suit fabric are strength, pliability, and the ability to retain shape and color for a long time. A separate category of requirements includes ventilation and hygiene. Things in your winter wardrobe should retain heat well. You have to spend a lot of time in business clothes, so high demands are placed on fabrics.

The quality of items will depend on the purpose, which determines several areas of costume crepe production:

• Casual or casual wear;
• Weekend or holiday;
• Departmental;
• Special purpose.

Clothing for each category is made from crepe suits, but differs in quality and appearance. The popularity of the fabric is associated not only with tailoring business clothes, but also with excellent performance properties, durability and comfort to wear.

Manufacturing process

The production uses finely patterned weave and threads with dense, crepe twist. The peculiarity of twisting is the twisting of the warp and weft threads in the right and left directions. In this case, the number of twists per 1 m of length is up to 3000. The twisted threads then cross and acquire additional elasticity. It is the tight twist that limits elasticity. But the fabric does not deform during use.

Manufacturing takes place under a special, high-temperature regime with steaming, from which the threads unwind. At the place of interlacing they are held by another thread and the process occurs unevenly. Thus, they give the canvas relief.

The finely patterned texture of the fabric is created by weaving into the warp and weft threads additional threads that differ from the main ones. Twisted, loosely and tightly stretched threads are combined and the effect of shading and roughness is formed. The areas of interweaving of the main and auxiliary threads are located chaotically, without a clear pattern, so there is no clearly visible pattern. The unique manufacturing technology provides the crepe with its performance characteristics, for which it is highly valued.

Crepe: a tradition of stylish elegance

There are many materials whose name includes the word “crepe”, which comes from the word “rough”. With different composition and density, any crepe fabric has a common distinctive feature - a slightly rough, fine-grained structure. In addition, it is thin, durable and drapes well. Currently, new types of textiles made using crepe weave have been added to the traditional types of crepe, which have already been appreciated by clothing designers.

Application and care

Armani silk is used for sewing elegant and casual clothes:

• dresses,

• skirts,

• blouse,

• suits,

• trousers

In addition, this is a good option for lining under chiffon, lace or guipure. In some cases, elegant home suits and dressing gowns are made from it.

Caring for this silk is not difficult, there are only a few conditions:

• Wash at low temperatures, “Delicate” mode.
• It is better to add conditioner along with the detergent.
• Drying – naturally.
• You can't twist it. Excess moisture from Armani is removed with a terry towel.
• Ironing – in “silk” mode. Before you begin, try ironing an inconspicuous area.

Advantages and disadvantages

The undeniable advantage of costume crepe is its natural composition, as well as its slight elasticity obtained naturally during the weaving process, and not by adding synthetic threads like elastane to the fabric. This elasticity and slight stretchability allows you to create fitted models of dresses and suits.

Pros:

• natural composition;
• strength;
• density;
• ease;
• wear resistance;
• breathability;
• hygroscopicity;
• crease resistance;
• does not deform;
• has elasticity;
• easy to sew;
• It gets dirty a little and doesn’t attract dust;
• does not fade when washed;
• spectacular expensive appearance.

Minuses:

• needs careful care;
• the canvas can be destroyed under constant exposure to ultraviolet rays;
• may shrink after washing.

Along with density and resistance to mechanical stress, the canvas is lightweight, which is also an advantage.

Recommendations for use

When choosing a crepe, you should follow simple rules:

• It is better to buy fabric in specialized stores, from trusted suppliers;
• Before purchasing, be sure to familiarize yourself with the composition of the fabric and check for quality certificates;
• A careful visual inspection will help you avoid purchasing low-quality fabric: the material must be uniformly colored, without visible defects, without an unpleasant odor;
• by running your hand over the fabric, you can feel a slight roughness of the surface;
• when the sample is crumpled, natural crepe wrinkles a little, quickly straightens out and takes its original shape; if the fabric has formed indelible creases and folds during compression, it is better to refuse the purchase: there is a high probability of a fake.

Benefits for plants

On the advertising page, the manufacturer guarantees (that’s what it says: “guaranteed”) that “Krepen”:

• Allows you to grow healthy and strong seedlings,
• Even in the absence of a sufficient amount of light, temperature disturbances, and dense plantings, the growth of seedlings is inhibited,
• Strengthens the root system and stem,
• Helps to form strong and thick side shoots,
• Increases plant resistance to adverse factors, hardens them,
• Improves the decorative qualities of flower crops, prolongs flowering,
• Contributes to the fact that in the future the plant will have many ovaries and fruits,
• When planting seedlings in the ground, it helps the seedlings adapt to new conditions and relieves stress.

Subtleties of care

A crepe suit requires a special approach to care. To avoid unpredictable results, it is better to dry clean items with complex cuts.

At home, crepe suits are washed by hand. For this purpose, use a mild detergent and warm water t=30°. Hot water causes matter to shrink. To maintain the brightness and richness of color longer, add a few tablespoons of vinegar to the water when rinsing.

Iron crepe fabrics only from the inside out. The heating of the iron should not exceed 140°. Overlay elements and trim on the front side are ironed through a fabric lining. It is better to start ironing when the material is still damp.

The fabric is sensitive to sunlight, so drying clothes in the sun is not recommended. You cannot use additional heat sources either. The item to be dried is straightened out and left in natural conditions.

Crepe products should be placed in the closet on hangers or placed in bags made of linen with ventilation.

Composition of crepe material

In the manufacture of knitted crepe, natural and synthetic threads can be used. When choosing a product, you must ask the seller for the composition, since allergic reactions on the skin may occur due to the presence of synthetics.

Most often, 40% cotton is used in the production of the material, and the remaining 60% is artificial threads. It is thanks to the presence of artificial fibers that it is possible to give the material additional strength and density. It is becoming increasingly rare to find a completely natural composition on sale today, but this does not mean that the quality of products with synthetics will be worse. There is also a wool crepe.

Here you can see a photo of cashmere fabric.

Advantages and disadvantages

This material, like any other, has its pros and cons.

The first include:

• durability;
• strength;
• variety of fabric options;
• beautiful appearance;
• crease resistance;
• holding forms;
• softness;
• repels moisture and dust;
• air passage;
• hypoallergenic.

The latter include high price, sensitivity to changing weather conditions, and difficulties in care. Disadvantages include moodiness. Products made from such fabric must be worn carefully. Not all types are easy to machine wash.