Text of the book “Technology of Suit Making”


Stitched seam with edging

A stitched seam with piping is used to design yokes and other joints of parts of various clothes.
To complete it, you will need an additional strip of fabric, which will act as an edging. It needs to be folded with the wrong sides along the entire length and ironed. Next, the strip is applied to the front sides of the canvases. For convenience, you can pin the joints with pins. The stitching is done at a distance of 4-5 millimeters from the edge. The distance depends on the style and width of the required edge.

The result of the work done is an even stitch connecting all four edges.

The fabrics need to be laid out and the inner edges of the edging ironed.

If desired, you can add a decorative stitch to secure the fold.

Source

Materials required for manual overcasting of fabrics

To perform hand overlock stitches, experienced craftswomen recommend using sets of only high-quality needles from well-known manufacturers. It is advisable to purchase needles that have a special coating in the eye area (the so-called “golden” eye), which ensures smooth sliding through the material, high smoothness of the eye and easy threading.

These needles are usually made of aluminum. Plastic needles: ideal for weaving tape, cord or thick materials. Needles: Knitting needles, gloves and socks require a set of needles. This consists of 5 needles, the work is divided into 4 of them, and the fifth is weaving.

Round needles: connected by nylon cable. They are ideal for no sewing, they also distribute weight and are beneficial to work with. There are different lengths. If they are very short, they may supply a specified set of needles. Bamboo Needles and Wood: These are made from natural material, many weavers make with them. They are light and only exist so far of medium thickness.

Needles for hand sewing are numbered from one to twelve. The needle number indicates the largest diameter of the needle in millimeters, multiplied by ten.

Under no circumstances should you use rusty, dull, or bent hand needles. The thickness of the needle should correspond to the thickness of the threads used. The thicker the needle, the more force will have to be applied to it to move it through the fabric, so using a thick needle for hand sewing with a thin thread is not justified.

Wool Needle: This is a needle used for sewing garments made from wool. They have a round toe with an opening large enough to allow fur to pass through. Sometimes they are replaced with safety pins. Baking and packaging machines. A sewing machine is a mechanical or electromechanical device that is used to join fabrics together using threads. Sewing machines create a distinctive seam, usually using two threads, although there are machines that use one, three, four or more.

Sewing machines can produce different stitches or patterns. They include a means for drawing, holding and moving fabric under a sewing needle to form a stitch pattern. Most homemade sewing machines and some industrial sewing machines use old sewing stitches to produce chains.

Also, do not use blunt-tipped embroidery needles for manual overcasting work, since they are intended only for cross-stitching on canvas.

To sew overcast seams by hand, use a thimble. Using thimbles in your work will protect your fingers and nails from damage, and will also speed up the sewing process. Dense and not very crumbling materials are easier to process than thin and friable materials.

They can be divided into three main groups. Industrial sewing machines: These machines are designed to produce high-quality seams and are used for processing heavier or harder fabrics. Semi-Industrial Sewing Machines: These machines perform dual duty, on one hand they can embroider and on the other hand they can sew. Various types of materials can be processed, be it heavy or light.

Overlock seam "In split"

These machines are used in garment shops, tailors and even small industries. There is a huge variety of such sewing machines. Household Sewing Machines: These types of machines are characterized by their speed. They are also automatic, so they are very easy to handle and have gained great popularity among many housewives who use them. There is a wide variety of this type of sewing machines, for example, some of them are characterized by performing various tasks such as embroidery, eyelets and automatic threading.

How to make a stitched seam with edging

Seams with edging (Fig. 68) have several varieties. A stitched seam with an edging (Fig. 68, a) is used mainly in the manufacture of uniforms. To make this seam, the edging strip is folded in half with the wrong side inward, placed on one of the main parts, covered with another main part, the sections are aligned and ground down using a special device at the distance specified in the technical specifications.

The seam sections are ironed from the inside out. In the absence of a special device, a strip folded in half is first stitched to one of the parts, placing it on the front side. Then the two main parts are folded with their right sides inward and stitched down, placing a stitch in the stitching seam of the strip (Fig. 68, b).

An overlay seam with an edging is made using a special device in the same way as a regular seam with a closed cut, while a strip of finishing fabric, folded in half, is inserted between the two main parts, releasing it at a distance specified by the model (Fig. 68, c). In the absence of a special device, the strip for the edging, folded in half, is first stitched to the bottom part at a distance from the fold equal to the width of the edging plus the width of the stitching seam, and then. apply the second part with a folded and swept or ironed cut and adjust at a distance depending on the model (Fig. 68, d).

French knot embroidery technique

The world of embroidery is multifaceted and diverse.
A lot of techniques, methods and techniques make it even more interesting. One of these unusual techniques is the French knot. When we hear this phrase, we imagine something exquisitely refined. And indeed it is. The unusual technique of this stitch adds an elegant twist to the embroidery. It is interesting that this embroidery element “came” to Europe from China. Such a cute touch on embroidered Chinese clothes brought by traders was noticed by French craftswomen. It was among them that this embroidery technique received the greatest recognition and became known as the “French knot,” and this knot was used to decorate the clothes of noble people.

Decorative and finishing machine seams

Decorative and finishing machine seams play an important role in the formation of the artistic image of garments. Also, with the help of these seams you can change the silhouette, increase the wearability of clothes, etc. Let's look at the most popular decorative and finishing seams:

Folds

Folds play an important role in shaping the image of the finished product. In more detail, a fold is an allowance of fabric along the width or length of a product, stitched or ironed. Below are the most popular folds - one-sided, counter, bow, fan.

One-sided fold

One-sided fold - a fold that is laid in one direction and pressed or stitched parallel to the material. The fabric allowance required to create a fold is taken twice the width of the finished fold (i.e., for one fold 2 cm wide, you need to add 4 cm to the width (or length) of the part).

One-sided fold (version 1)

French knot embroidery for beginners video and highlights

https://youtube.com/watch?v=v110JjESWHQ

The main question that beginners have is what materials to use for this technology? Unlike the more usual trends in embroidery, the “French knot” is almost always done with ribbons, and most often, satin ones. Threads are not always suitable, since it is very difficult to achieve the required volume with them. The ribbons, with each new turn, will create not just a three-dimensional knot, but a complete element. And depending on the number of turns mentioned, as well as the size and density of the tape, the relief of the pattern varies, as well as what parts can be made with a certain knot. If you work with threads, use floss or wool, and very thin ones will need to be folded 3-4 times.

The volume of knots depends not only on the width and density of the ribbons you embroider with, but also on the size of the needle: larger, thicker needles allow you to form large knots, thin needles allow you to form small and hard knots. And, of course, it’s unlikely to be possible to wind a ribbon 5-6 times on a small thin needle - for this you need a longer needle with a larger diameter. All this is taken into account when studying the idea of ​​a future painting: for example, it is good to add snowflakes to the canvas with small French knots if they are in the form of balls, and with large ones – unopened buds of peonies, roses and other flowers, especially if they are in a wreath.

It is recommended to purchase “gypsy” needles: they have a very long and wide eye, while the needle itself is of medium thickness, and they are ideal for soft and thin silk ribbons, as well as for denser satin ones. Nylon ribbons work well with short gold needles. The advantage of such needles is that they are protected from surface oxidation, which means they will not lose their smoothness. But when working with threads, you can resort to chenille needles numbered 13 and 11.

A lot depends on the fabric: the more uniform its weaving, the more convenient it will be for you to work with it. Fabrics on which punctures spread quickly are not suitable for the “French knot”, since a very thin and small knot can simply fall through the resulting puncture.

Artistic color embroidery

The second name for this type of surface is tonal. This embroidery allows you to convey shadows and light through transitions from dark to light shades and back. The possibilities of this surface are endless. It perfectly conveys veining and color transitions when embroidering plant subjects.

When embroidering animals and birds, the stitches practically repeat the hairs and feathers. Satin stitch can also be used to embroider people.

Satin stitch embroidery for beginners should have a simple motif. For training, you can take a flower or even one petal. Choose 3-4 shades of the same color. On the fabric, indicate the approximate boundaries of each tone transition.

What are the advantages of French cross stitch with knots?

French cross stitch with knots is used when it is necessary to highlight any part and add volume. It would be more logical to call this type of embroidery combined. Two different types of stitches are combined on the canvas - crosses and knots.

A cross-stitched picture is decorated with French knots for:

  • Adding volume to flowers;
  • Filling elements of trees, clouds;
  • They are used to decorate the eyes and noses of animals;
  • Decoration of dresses, hats;
  • Imitation of natural phenomena.


The advantage of French embroidery is that it looks voluminous.
Using an artistic approach, they create entire pictures, amazing, beautiful and impressive works. Using this very interesting technique, you can create various designs and make unique paintings.

Falling snow against the background of a winter landscape or food for birds in a feeder will stand out effectively from the general appearance of the canvas. There are no limits to the imagination of needlewomen; tablecloths embroidered with French embroidery will decorate the festive table.

ADVICE FOR BEGINNING CRAFTSWORKERS. HOW TO CHOOSE FABRIC FOR EMBROIDERY

Advice for beginning craftswomen.

How to choose fabric for embroidery.

The fabric is chosen depending on what you are going to embroider and in what technique.

A drawn pattern can be embroidered on any fabric - from very thin (cambric, chiffon, crepe de Chine) to dense (velvet, cloth, satin), and counted seams can only be made on plain weave fabric (cambric, voile, linen, canvas) or with clearly pronounced texture (waffle fabric, pique).

Stitch embroidery and hemstitching are also performed on plain weave fabric, the threads of which are easily pulled through.

For cutwork, it is better to choose a dense fabric that does not fray when cut, and white Mstera satin stitch is embroidered on thin transparent plain weave fabric (marquisette, cambric).

Batiste. Crepe de Chine. Chiffon.

Atlas. Velvet. Cloth.

Marquisette. Canvas. Canvas.

Waffle fabric. Pique.

If you already have a certain fabric, all that remains is to choose the appropriate pattern and embroidery method.

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