Current trends
The collections of leading fashion designers are replete with bright motifs embodied on the canvases of famous Pavlovo Posad shawls, which add Russian flavor to global fashion trends.
Posad shawls appear on fragile women's shoulders with the first autumn cold, and then migrate to jackets, fur coats and coats. They stylishly help you stay warm on cold days and organically complement your fashionable look.
An original Russian accessory conquers the world's catwalks
The popular belief that Pavloposad scarves are a privilege of the “grandmother’s” style can be refuted - you need to know how to wear them and choose the right companion items:
- This primordially Russian attribute will adorn any look, but the more well-groomed a woman looks, the more refined the accessory is perceived;
- The main condition for wearing a scarf is a balanced silhouette. A bulky shawl can create imbalance if combined with loose clothing;
- The generous color scheme must be balanced with calm colors of clothing. It is desirable that it be combined with the main tones of the product or contrast favorably against their background;
- Posad scarves can be combined with any style of clothing, even the most daring combinations. With the help of light colors you can emphasize the office style, neutralizing excessive severity and restraint.
Numerous photos in fashion magazines and all sorts of videos on social networks show how to beautifully tie scarves on your head, turning a “grandmother’s” attribute into a modern stylish accessory.
Pavloposad shawl: a little history
The Pavlovo Posad shawl is another evidence that Russia preserves cultural values laid down by talented craftsmen several centuries ago. This bright shawl has been at the peak of popularity for several years now: fashionistas prefer to wear it both as a headband and as a warm scarf.
Posad shawls began their history 200 years ago. In the mid-19th century, mass production of the accessory began in the small town of Pavlovsky Posad. Experts in weaving stood out especially clearly among the artisans - their incredibly beautiful and large shawls gained popularity.
The original Russian scarf made of thick textile was distinguished by its original style - in the 19th century it was generously decorated with golden threads. Soon production improved - they began to use woolen or half-woolen material, and the design became printed. The highlight of the stylish scarf lies in the original colorful symmetrical pattern.
The color scheme varies: blue, black, green, white, red are present. Some models can be complemented with fringe.
How to wear a headscarf
Representatives of the fashion industry saw the traditional Russian scarf as a self-sufficient element of clothing. It organically emphasizes the richness and beauty of natural fur, and a variety of tying options will help create a unique image:
- A modest shawl in soothing colors will go well with long-pile winter coats, but you should be careful with the size of the bag. Bulky shopping bags make the overall look heavier, so you should give preference to small, comfortable handbags;
- Short fur coats with short pile will be decorated with bright scarves tied on the head or a shawl falling over the coat. This set will go well with flat boots and a medium-sized bag;
- A fur coat with a hood will be decorated with a scarf tied around the neck, and a fitted sheepskin coat will be complemented by a shawl thrown over the shoulders;
Under the dress
If you drive a car and are not afraid of frost, Pavloposad silk scarves are suitable for you, which are produced in all colors and with different prints. They can be worn indoors without taking them off - this is a separate part of a stylish winter wardrobe.
The assortment includes exquisite models with oriental colors with fringe, as well as crepe de Chine with an abstract pattern. If you love floral prints, check out jacquard and crepe georgette. To tie it, you need to make a bun at the back of your head and comb your hair smoothly; the range of colors will appeal to even the most discerning fashionistas.
Style and harmony
A stylish Posad scarf will help harmonize any type of clothing:
- A fitted coat and loose-fitting items can be effectively complemented with a Pavloposad shawl by tying a large knot around the neck. The ends of the product should be hidden under the edge of the product or left hanging down;
- Classic coats and jackets are combined with discreet scarves in neutral colors, combined with leather shoes and bags;
Accessories in subdued colors go well with winter clothes.
- Lovely beauties who want to complement their look with bright accessories can experiment with colors and types of tying. At the same time, the accessory will look original in a sporty and vintage style with sneakers and a backpack.
Fashion magazines often feature photos of celebrities who demonstrate how to wear scarves on their heads in winter with a fur coat. Expert advice will help you understand fashion trends and choose the most suitable options for your image.
Combination with skin
Leather jackets in combination with painted canvases of townsman masterpieces look especially original:
- Young beauties can combine small shawls with narrow jackets or biker jackets;
- A small scarf tied loosely around the neck will go well with the stand-up collar, and you can combine the outfit with boyfriends or a miniskirt.
For a summer evening
Pavloposad shawls will become an indispensable element of clothing in the warm season:
- They will help complement a painted sundress or midi dress, emphasizing the feminine lines of the silhouette. At the same time, brighter colors are suitable for pastel colors, and restrained colors are suitable for a colorful sundress;
- A silk shawl will transform a beach look, and a scarf folded several times will decorate skinny jeans on an evening boat trip;
- The posad shawl will go well with a cocktail dress and will become an integral part of the evening look.
What to wear with
The photo shows some of the most successful images using such a unique accessory. You can wear it in any season, it is only important to choose the right outerwear and try to tie it in an original way.
With outerwear
A bright large shawl with flowers is a trend that many modern girls like. It will look harmonious on both very young ladies and older women. The secret lies in the successful combination of a shawl and outerwear - a harmonious tandem for a stylish look.
Coat
A classic coat is a garment with which you need to be as careful as possible. It is better to give preference to beige or brown shades and muted patterns - this way the look will be harmonious. Evelina Khromchenko recommends abandoning such a shawl if the outerwear has an asymmetrical cut and is made in a military style - there will be too many accents.
Tying options
Fashion expert Evelina Khromchenko talks about how to tie a Pavloposad scarf and wearing options:
- In most cases, the scarf is worn over clothing, forming a knot near the neck, with the fabric falling into an attractive drape. This method is not suitable for sweaters with a voluminous hood and sweaters with a large collar;
- A scarf folded several times and tied in a knot in the form of a scarf will go well with classic jackets, jackets and coats;
Russian beauty
- For a coat with a deep neckline, the method of tying the ends around the neck of a scarf folded diagonally is suitable;
- A folded scarf can be worn beautifully on your head: this option will suit loose curls or a high ponytail;
- A scarf tied in the gypsy style looks attractive. Young beauties can cover their heads with a scarf, cross the loose ends under the chin and wrap them around the neck.
Thanks to the fashion industry, Pavloposad shawls have found a second wind, firmly settling in the wardrobes of modern beauties. At the same time, the usual opinion about the attribute of elegant age is gradually losing relevance.
A riot of colors in combination with other things allows you to create new images and embody the most daring ideas. And how to wear Pavloposad scarves correctly, the advice of Evelina Khromchenko, a leading expert in modern fashion, will tell you, and then a familiar thing will acquire a main place in your wardrobe.
Choosing a pattern
The floral pattern is considered classic. Products with the so-called Turkish pattern were not uncommon - it used ornamental motifs in the shape of a “bean” or “cucumber”. The pattern is applied to a plain canvas. Black and white are classics, but the color scheme of the canvas is represented by all shades of the rainbow.
In the second half of the 19th century, roses and dahlias were especially often depicted in floral designs. There is an opinion that the design on a Pavloposad product is unique, like the pattern of snowflakes; it is impossible to find two identical ones. Therefore, choosing a product with a color that will emphasize individuality and originality will not be difficult. Ideally, it is good to have at least two of them: one for the cold season, the other will be indispensable in the summer.
When choosing a pattern, do not neglect the nuances. Shawls with large ornaments or designs are harmonious and appropriate for stately, prominent ladies with a slightly above average build. On miniature and fragile ones, scarves with small ornaments will look more organic. When choosing, try to ensure that the type of pattern is in harmony with your facial features.
Stylish looks
For a romantic meeting, a soft-colored straight dress with a coat of the same palette, over which a Pavloposad scarf will be thrown, will be suitable.
Earrings and long boots will not be superfluous. For an everyday look, a combination with a dress in a dark color made of a plain fabric, preferably with a tapered cut, would be appropriate. If you are planning a business meeting, then a white shirt with black trousers and the accessory itself in black and red shades will help you create an outfit. It can be lightly wrapped around the neck. Don't forget patent leather shoes and a bag. Silk trousers with any blouse are suitable for a cultural hike. And there are many variations of tying a scarf: tie it around your neck with a corner. To do this, you need to fold it diagonally, leave a corner in front, and wrap the ends and secure them with a knot. It is also possible to imitate a tie, while securing the fabric with a brooch of your choice.
The only thing worth remembering is the color scheme. Make sure that as many elements as possible are combined with each other.
It looks ugly if the image is too “heavy”, that is, a lot of massive objects or a huge number of bright colors are used. Therefore, it is better to choose plain, pastel clothes.
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Since ancient times, head coverings have been an obligatory part of girls' and women's costumes. In the 18th–19th centuries, shawls and veils, scarves and headscarves were common among peasants and merchants as an addition to a headdress or an independent item of festive and everyday attire. Moreover, in every center of Russia, local, sometimes very unusual ways of wearing and using them in a costume developed. Every woman's chest, regardless of class and income, always contained several scarves and shawls intended for all occasions. The fashion for them has survived to this day. Products from modern factories and private workshops are in demand among fashionistas of all ages, both in the capitals and far beyond their borders. The collection of scarves, shawls and head coverings from the late 18th century to the first half of the 20th century in the collection of the State Russian Museum is extensive and diverse in composition. It includes about a thousand woven, printed, knitted, embroidered, lace items made from various materials in factories, in city and monastery workshops or by the hands of folk craftswomen... This is one of the largest and most significant collections in Russia. It is impossible to imagine the picturesque works in the collection of the State Russian Museum, which tell about the life of traditional Russian society, without images of folk costume. The colorful outfits of peasant women and merchant women, complemented by bright scarves and shawls, are depicted on the canvases of Malyavin, Ryabushkin, Kustodiev, Nesterov and other artists.
Winter festivities in St. Petersburg. Photo: E. Asmolov / TASS
The famous Pavlovo Posad scarf is a popular accessory that has adorned women all over the world for more than 200 years. This is an excellent original Russian addition to any outfit - both in folk style and trendy. Wool-blend and wool shawls will keep you warm on cool winter evenings. Silk or cambric scarves create a cooling effect and provide excellent protection from the summer heat. Motifs or elements of Pavlovo Posad scarves are used at fashion shows by both Russian and European fashion designers. Vyacheslav Zaitsev based on them produced several collections of exquisite clothing framed with furs. Andrey Sharov transferred the Pavlovo Posad pattern to silk skirts. Denis Simachev created the “15 Fraternal Republics” collection from them. And Ilya Shiyan complemented the men's suits of his collection with shawls.
History of the accessory Scarves appeared in the wardrobe of fashionistas in the 17th century and became a favorite decoration for the clothes of wealthy merchants. A century later, the Persian word “shawl” entered the Russian lexicon, which began to be used to describe large patterned scarves. Expensive gifts were usually given to brides and then passed on by inheritance. Famous ornaments arose from everyday peasant life: there are flowers, carved patterns of frames and spinning wheels, homespun embroidery, and elements of icon painting.
In the 18th–19th centuries, mass production of printed and patterned scarves began in Rus'. The foundation of future industrial production was laid by peasant farms. They housed handlooms and used dyehouses. Manual production was replaced by steam engines and calico printing machines. Handmade gold embroidery began to be reproduced on a jacquard loom for patterned weaving, and then the fabrics began to be dyed. Soon Russian scarves and shawls found their way to international exhibitions, where they gained fame and popularity. Beginning in the 19th century, a colorful design was applied to fabric using wooden carved forms called “flowers,” and its contours were stuffed with “manners.” Initially, for labor-intensive production, the pattern on wood was burned to a certain depth and then filled with lead. Craftswomen created the finest patterns and intricate ornaments using planks. Traditions in applying ornaments are still observed today Pavlovo Posad Shawl Manufactory From 1795 to this day, one of the most famous Russian accessories has been created at the Pavlovo Posad shawl manufactory in the Moscow region. Each new scarf takes about three months to create. Initially, the factory was mastered by a wealthy peasant Semyon Labzin. In the 50s of the 19th century, his grandson Yakov Ivanovich and his companion Vasily Gryaznov resumed mass production of Pavlovsk scarves at the inherited factory. At the beginning of the 20th century, the Partnership of Ya. Labzin and V. Gryaznov manufactories became the largest factory for the production of woolen scarves and shawls in Russia. In 2006, the factory was awarded the Order of Glory to Russia for outstanding services in preserving and developing the national traditions of domestic decorative and applied arts.The technique of dyeing scarves has been preserved since ancient times. Initially, the artist draws the repeating part of the pattern in gouache on whatman paper. Then the scarf is spun, the threads are bleached and the selected design is applied with a laser. The main color of the product appears only after the scarf is steamed, which is done to fix the dyes on the woolen fabric. Using test paints, the colorist develops the final color recipe. For a long time, three colors served as backgrounds for scarves - black, burgundy and light (the color of unbleached linen). The rest - pink, green and blue - have appeared in modern times. Each scarf made at the manufactory has its own name, invented by the artists themselves. The most famous of them are “The Scarlet Flower” and “Spanish”, as well as “Wedding Ring”, “Gatherings”, “Samarkand”, “Crane”. Sometimes the factory repeats old drawings. Thus, in the collection of the 2006/07 season there is a shawl “Prayer”, recreated according to the model of the early 20th century. And the “White Roses” scarf has been produced since 1953. Nowadays, the most common motif is voluminous garlands of half-opened buds and a colorful interweaving of wreaths.
Old Russian printed cloth
Flowers were applied to the fabric of Pavlovo Posad scarves using the ancient Russian printing method. Previously, icon painters and woodcarvers became masters in this field (they made molds for engravings, popular prints and gingerbread). To decorate the fabric with colored designs, they used carved boards - manners and flowers. They imprinted the pattern: with manners the outline of the design, and with flowers the background. A separate board was cut for each color. The scarf was not stuffed entirely, but was divided into parts (from 4 to 24, depending on the size). Craftsmen sometimes overlapped boards up to 400 times, creating a complex multi-color pattern.
At the factory, scarves were stuffed by hand until the 70s of the twentieth century. Today, the design is applied using mechanical printing with a thin stencil. The number of stencil templates, as before, is created according to the number of shades that are applied to the fabric. The crochet (sketch of the scarf) is transferred to the template using a computer.
Geometric composition
Traditional Pavlovo Posad shawls are decorated with symmetrical patterns. The floral pattern on the square field is located around the perimeter, forming an eight-pointed star in the center. This geometric pattern of the scarf appeared in the 80s of the 19th century. The founders of the printed corps of the Pavlovo Posad manufactory, Yakov Labzin and Vasily Gryaznov, borrowed the composition from the Prokhorovs’ Trekhgornaya manufactory. In those years, all of Moscow wore Prokhorov's floral cotton scarves.
Bouquet. World tree
The main element of Pavlovo Posad motifs is flower bouquets of regular shape. Previously, each of them consisted of three roses, then the number of flowers in the bouquet increased. However, the three roses are sure to stand out, forming an equilateral triangle.
In folk art, a triangular bouquet (flowering bush or tree) was traditionally considered the World Tree, which connected earth and sky. Flowers on Pavlovo Posad shawls are depicted in life-size, and sometimes larger than the living originals.
Rose
The first Pavlovo Posad shawls depicted bouquets of roses; soon, thanks to them, the floral motifs of the manufactory's products became recognizable. In the 1930s, factory worker Konstantin Abolikhin created his own drawing of a picturesque rose. Many artists learned to paint from it, and over time they found their own style. In the 40s of the twentieth century, bells and poppies, daisies and lilacs, rowan berries and peonies appeared in Pavlovo Posad floral motifs.
The flowers on the “Russian Beauty” scarf are distinguished by round cores, an open lower corolla and petals with a soft outline.
Drawing designed by Konstantin Abolikhin. 1937
Scallop
Festoon is an ornament located around the perimeter of the scarf. The lace festoons on Irina Dadonova’s scarf resemble, according to the artist’s plan, the contours of minarets. While working on the design in 1985, she assumed that the shawls would be sold in the eastern republics. However, at the factory the scarf was called “Russian Beauty”, it became a real hit in Pavlovo Posad, and the demand for it is so great that the scarf has been produced for more than 30 years.
Eight pointed star
In the designs of Pavlovo Posad shawls, the stylistic device of “positive - negative” is used. The background, free from ornament, itself becomes an element of the pattern: a cross or an eight-pointed star appears in the center of the composition.
Among the ancient Slavs, an eight-pointed star or an octagonal rosette personified the sun, and in the Christian tradition - the Star of Bethlehem. When making scarves, the central element is sometimes highlighted additionally and its background is painted over with a different color.
Color
The color of the scarf is created by the artist while working on the sketch. Then the painters check on prototypes whether they can bring this idea to life. At the same time, several more color solutions are being developed for the scarf. Since 1985, “Russian Beauty” has been produced in eight versions - on white, black and green backgrounds, including with bright turquoise roses.
Initially, the factory in Pavlovsky Posad used paints of vegetable origin: the color of the scarves was natural, in red-brown tones. In the early 1880s, vegetable dyes were replaced by aniline dyes. At the same time, bright pink shades appeared in flower paintings (another distinctive feature of Pavlovo Posad products). Konstantin Abolikhin was the first to depict flowers in fantasy shades on scarves.
Shawl “Russian Beauty” with turquoise roses
https://www.culture.ru/materials/129403/zagadki-pavlovoposadskogo-platka
Features of Pavloposad shawls
These unique accessories appeared more than 150 years ago. Today they are winning the hearts of not only Russian fashionistas, but also representatives of other countries. Why are they so attractive?
- Very airy;
- Incredibly beautiful;
- They have bright
design; - Weightless
, despite their size; - Luxurious, because they are decorated very richly;
- Unique, you can be sure that no one else will have a similar scarf. And fakes are completely excluded, because the design of each accessory is incredibly complex;
- Made from natural
material; - They can have a variety of textures;
- Fashionable and are not going to go out of fashion for the next few years for sure.
- The love for Russian Pavloposad scarves has gained wide popularity. It all started with the famous Gwen Stefani, who was instantly supported by other fashionistas.
How to wear?
It is better to balance the active pattern of Pavlovo Posad scarves with neutral tones in clothes. The latter should either be combined as much as possible or contrast favorably with the background color. A light scarf can effectively highlight and dilute a strict set in dark colors.
Fashion designers, designers and image makers have already come up with many different options for wearing a Pavloposad scarf: Traditional
. This method was used back in Rus'. The scarf should be placed on the head and tied under the chin in a knot.
This option will look beautiful only on those girls who have regular facial features.
A Pavlovo Posad scarf can add tenderness and femininity to an image if combined with an English-style coat, fitted or with a belt. In this case, the fabric should be plain or with a faint pattern: herringbone, checkered or striped. It is better to choose discreet, elegant styles for shoes and bags.
Options for wearing a Pavloposad scarf on your head.
In the cold season, a scarf goes perfectly with a fur coat or sheepskin coat. It can be tied on the head, but the ends are wrapped around the neck. It turns out both a headdress and a scarf in one
.
It will look beautiful if you tie a Pavloposad scarf like a bandana. Only for this you will need a not very large accessory. A current option is the ability to tie a Pavloposad scarf around your neck in the form of a corner
.
To do this, you need to fold it in half (diagonally), and then, leaving a corner in front, wrap the ends around your neck and tie a knot over the resulting corner (see the article “ How to tie women’s scarves beautifully
”).
At the end, be sure to straighten the fringe. Shawl
.
Huge scarves can simply be thrown over your shoulders, which only serves to emphasize women’s sophisticated taste. Pioneer tie
.
This is how you can tie this elegant accessory. The main thing is to decorate and fasten the knot with a luxurious brooch, which will not look pretentious, but will harmonize with the suit. Belt
.
Fashion designers advise making a belt out of a scarf or a wide belt for a fur coat or coat. To do this, the scarf is folded into a triangle and wrapped around the hips or waist. You need to tie the accessory on the side ( see the article
“
How to tie a belt at the waist
”).
Top
.
In summer, a Pavloposad scarf can be turned into a top or pareo. And in cool weather - like a pareo on top of a turtleneck or blouse. Bag
. If desired, you can quickly make a bucket bag from a large scarf that will look elegant with a dress or suit in the “a la russe” style.
What to combine with?
The Pavloposad shawl looks beautiful with a leather jacket. Moreover, it can be black, and brown, and gray, and green. The main thing is to choose the right harmonious color
scarf.
This accessory will complement your fur coat. In this case, woolen and large scarves are suitable. In summer
For a walk, it is recommended to wear a Pavloposad scarf
with denim shorts
or classic jeans. A denim jacket or jacket made of the same fabric can also be decorated with a scarf. This is not the entire list of wardrobe details with which this accessory looks beautiful. Knowing how to wear Pavloposad scarves, every girl can look fashionable and transform her image, enlivening it with just one bright detail.
As a stylish and unusual accessory, the Russian scarf is recommended for young ladies who prefer a bold and extravagant style - partly sporty, partly vintage. They can afford to wear jeans, a loose T-shirt and a bomber jacket or oversize coat of any length along with a Pavlovo Posad scarf. The look will be complemented by bright sneakers, a sports bag or a leather backpack that matches the accessory.
A casual look that is comfortable and stylish can be achieved by combining a scarf tied around the neck with cropped trousers, a classic nautical-style peacoat, a wide-brimmed felt hat and ankle boots with high but thick heels.
Some tips on how to wear Pavloposad scarves:
- Girls who prefer business-style clothing often wear scarves around their necks: they tie them like a man's tie. The product emphasizes the originality of the image!
- The Pavlovo Posad scarf can be tied like a regular scarf, after first folding it diagonally several times. With this method of wearing, a slight carelessness of the image is allowed; the edges and fringe can stick out slightly in different directions, creating a voluminous effect.
More daring young ladies must be able to wear a Pavlovo Posad scarf on their heads. You can also tie it in various ways:
1. If you fold the fabric with the corners towards the center and tuck it several times, you can get a spectacular headband that covers part of the forehead with hair, is tied at the back, and the ends are thrown forward over one shoulder. As for hairstyles, it is better to opt for loose hair or a high ponytail.
2. By folding the scarf diagonally, you can tie it in the gypsy style, hiding your hair under it and straightening the ends along your back. With this method, models with fringe look original and luxurious. In a similar way, you can tie a Pavlovo Posad scarf without fringe or in a smaller size, if you fold it at one angle to the center, throw it over your head, tie it at the back, tucking the ends under the knot.
3. A bright or light scarf tied on the head, like Alyonushka’s, will add touching and romanticism: fold it diagonally, throw it over the head, cross the ends and tie them at the back. Carefully tuck the ends under the fabric. So you can wear this accessory with a dress or a fur coat.
- Women with a long and graceful neck place the knot on the side. Remember, the knot can visually shorten this part of the body.
- It is fashionable to twist large square-shaped items into a rope or combine two scarves into one composition.
- Scarves are often used to cover the shoulders in spring and autumn - worn in the classic way, as women did back in the 18th and 19th centuries.
- In winter, scarves can be used as scarves by tying them using the original method.
- It is fashionable to wrap large shawls and scarves around the neck. Recently, stars are increasingly shown wearing products at parties and special events.
- By folding the scarf into a triangle, you can cover your head with it. The edges are fastened behind the neck.
- A scarf tied around the neck looks beautiful; one part of the product covers the shoulder.
- Don't tie a scarf like a tie under a sweater!
Be sure to select an ornament to match your clothing style, for example, classic, business, urban or glamorous. Designers advise experimenting: now it’s fashionable to “stand out from the crowd.” For example, buy scarves in larger sizes and wear them in unconventional ways.
You can make a belt from a large Pavlovo Posad scarf by folding it several times and tying it around the waist. This option is equally good with a tight black dress and a fluffy floor-length sundress. In the first case, you should pay attention to bright and saturated colors, and in the second, to soft pastel shades.
The Pavlovo Posad scarf has long ceased to be exclusively an accessory for grandmothers. Today it is worn by the most fashionable girls, for whom style is not an empty phrase. An amazing combination of shades and numerous possibilities for combining this item with other wardrobe elements make it a truly irreplaceable item that will give you a good mood and unique comfort at any time of the year.
Scarf combination depending on the season
For summer . It will look good on a woman if she uses a thin scarf as a cape over a shirt or T-shirt in cool weather. Don't be afraid to wear it over denim jackets or with denim shorts. If you go to the beach, then Pavlovo Posad fabric is good as a pareo. It can also be used as a top in combination with jeans and a turtleneck, or as a bandana. But in both cases it is better to take a silk texture. For autumn - spring. When it’s already or still warm, you want to take off heavy and warm clothes, here a bright scarf can replace a cardigan. However, you need to choose a monochromatic outfit to go with it. It can be combined with a dress of a simple, laconic or shirt cut. For winter. A shawl is an indispensable garment in cold weather. It is usually thrown over a warm coat. If there is no voluminous collar, then the ends of the scarf can be let out over the coat. This is also a great combination with a fur coat or sheepskin coat - in any case, it will complement the fur.
REFERENCE! It is better to choose large size products.