Twill weave: what is it, diagram, detailed description of the technique

Twill weaving is considered one of the most beautiful, while twill fabric is more of a collective name than a specific variety. Its composition can be anything, and the only thing that unites the canvases is the weave. The pattern seems to go at an angle, or rather diagonally. This weave is familiar from jeans and suit fabrics. The diagonal pattern of weaving threads on the canvas is a distinctive feature of the material. Fewer intersections of warp and weft threads with additional offset not only gives the fabric a grainy feel, but also increases tensile strength.

Appearance

What is twill weaving fabric - this is a type of material in which the yarn has a special weave of threads. This is one of the most popular materials.

Twill weave pattern

A special feature of twill fabric is that it has a diagonal stripe pattern. Sometimes this weaving method is called marque. The scar is made along the width of the material from left to right, sometimes vice versa. The pattern is obtained due to the widespread displacement of the yarn relative to the fabric. This is how the characteristic marque relief is formed.

Note! Twill fabrics can have a smooth or finely patterned side.
Such canvases are made plain-dyed, printed, and sometimes lightened. Sometimes threads are combined to form a gradient. You can get such a fabric through the process of embroidery with knitting needles.

General characteristics

For twill fabrics compared to conventional weave:

• there are more threads per cm2;
• the fabric becomes heavier and thicker.

Diagonal twill weave determines some general properties of twill fabrics.

In the end they all:

1. durable;
2. “breathe”, that is, breathable, not creating a “greenhouse effect”;
3. hygroscopic, absorb and release water well;
4. keep warm in cold weather, provide coolness in hot weather;
5. wear-resistant.

Varieties of weave

The variety of thread patterns is determined by the type of twill weave of threads:

• Classic look. The angle of the scar is on the right side, the lines are equal in width;
• Reverse - deviation of the scar to the left;
• Heavy variety - there are several reliefs of varying widths. The properties of the canvas do not change;
• A broken mesh can create a pattern of different angle directions. This will be the “Christmas tree” pattern. The broken method is used to make fabrics from wool, cashmere, and sometimes from cotton.
• Reinforced weaving allows for wide diagonals.

The materials differ in the sharpness of the scar angle. If the warp and weft threads are the same, then the classic angle is 45 degrees.

Herringbone weaving

When the warp is larger than the weft, the angle is wider, and vice versa. Twill weaving also depends on the properties of the threads themselves. If the yarn is dense and twisted, the pattern is more prominent and the fabric is rougher. This one requires some care.

Compound

Twill does not have one composition; it can be 100% natural fabric, mixed or synthetic. Twill lining fabrics, according to GOST, have a chemical, that is, artificial composition. Typically, twill weave is used to produce wool, cotton and silk fabrics. Just remember denim or tweed.

Reinforced twill with expressive relief is widely used in the manufacture of outerwear. In this case, there is not only a high density of the material, but also a significant thickness. The group of reinforced fabrics includes coat fabrics of a wool blend composition, as well as tartan and some costume and dress varieties.

For suiting fabrics, broken twill is more suitable, which forms a herringbone pattern. The composition of such cuts is predominantly cotton or wool, sometimes mixed. Reverse twill also has a distinctive texture and is suitable for suiting. The composition of such cuts is similar - wool, half-woolen, cotton.

Twill fabric has other composition options. Semi-silk fabrics with cotton weft and a silk warp are common. They are dressable and suitable for making light clothing.

What is good about twill

The popularity of twill weave is explained by the huge number of its positive properties. Any material made using this method, regardless of the raw materials used, is characterized by a number of advantages:

• Has increased strength and tear resistance;
• There are no coils formed on the product;
• The canvas hardly wrinkles;
• It perfectly accepts a variety of reinforcing impregnations: waterproof and others. This is a good property for materials that are used for various workwear;

Cotton twill

• The fabric turns out to be very soft and shiny than with plain weave;
• Absorbs moisture well and turns it into steam;
• The products are elastic and do not constrain the body;
• Double-sided fabrics are pleasant to the touch, it’s nice to be in such things;
• Twill drapes easily;
• Fairly easy to care for;
• The material does not cause allergies;
• The canvas does not accumulate static electricity;
• Air circulates and retains heat well;
• Low price, large selection of colors and patterns.

The material has almost no disadvantages, except for one. After the first wash, there is always a slight shrinkage, especially with cotton-based fabric. There is no way to fight this. Therefore, when purchasing, you need to take the product so that it fits a little loosely on the body.

Flaws

The disadvantages of the material are determined by its composition. If we are talking about cotton varieties, they shrink, although they are easier to work with when cutting. If you carry out wet-heat treatment before cutting, subsequent deformation can be avoided.

The presence of wool fibers increases the care requirements. In addition, woolen material is of interest to moths and can cause skin irritation in allergy sufferers. When purchasing twill fabric, you should carefully study its composition so as not to encounter unpleasant surprises in the future.

Review of matters

The yarn used for twill weaving has the same effect on the properties of the finished fabric. The versatility of the fabric lies in the use of various fibers (artificial and synthetic). Denim fabric is often made from it, it can be:

• One of the cheapest and thinnest materials is Gin, produced from untwisted yarns of low density;
• Jeans. High-quality and dense material, the weft threads are twisted. Recently, elastane has often been added to denim to make it more elastic;
• Stretch. There are also warm denim, with thermal material on the inside as a lining;
• Denim with a ripe herringbone pattern is called Broken Twill. The first jeans were made from it;
• One of the most expensive and best fabrics will be Denim and Selvage. Jackets, coats, and suits are made from them.

To visually understand what is being said, you need to watch several master classes on weaving.

Material Denim

Wool twill

Basically these are quite dense and warm fabrics. Twill wool is used to create winter clothing.

What fabrics are made from wool twill

• Gabardine is a material made from merino sheep wool. Fur coats, coats, and sweaters are made from it. Used as furniture upholstery. She looks quite elegant. The peculiarity of this fabric is that the scar on the outer side is tilted at 60 degrees and the back is shiny;
• Tweed - hats, suits and coats are made from this fabric. Made from sheep's wool. Properties of the fabric: keeps warm, does not wrinkle, has a beautiful appearance.

Mostly suits, outerwear, hats or demi-season items are made from woolen fabric.

Wool blend

For twill weaving, mixtures of threads are used. Wool blend fabrics are very popular. Cotton yarn is used as the warp, woolen threads will be used as weft. They are most often used to make coats and special clothing for workers. It is quite difficult to care for, so you need to follow the rules written on the label.

Natural silk twill

Cotton

Pure cotton fabrics are very dense. Such material is called harsh.

One of the most beautiful and popular fabrics to use will be denim fabrics with a pattern, they are called jeans. For the base in the canvas, dyed yarn is taken.

Silk and semi-silk

Silk twill fabrics are used to make sets of linen that are soft and pleasant to the touch. For semi-silk fabrics, silk fabric and cotton weft are used.

Viscose

Viscose thread is made from cellulose. Thin viscose twill fabrics are widely used as linings in hats or outerwear. Many women's wardrobe items are made from the material. For example, autumn dresses or office suits.

Lining material

Application

The material is practically resistant to demolition. It is used to sew:

1. Work suits for use in various industrial sectors.
2. Aprons, mittens.
3. Strong bags.
4. Upholstery for furniture, mattresses.
5. Fastening straps.
6. Special abrasive material for grinding surfaces.
7. Formal jackets, skirts, trousers and ready-made suits.
8. Linings (they are made from thin silky yarn).
9. Dresses and blouses (twill with the addition of elastane is used for these purposes).

Most often, the material is used specifically for sewing workwear. It is inexpensive and allows you to create things that are comfortable to wear, durable, easy to care for, functional, and wear-resistant. Less coarse and more aesthetically pleasing varieties of twill are used to create clothes for every day.

How to care for products

This weaving is quite durable, but it requires careful care. Washing rules depend on the composition of the material. If it contains wool, cashmere or silk, then you must follow the rules on the product label. The water temperature should not be higher than 35 degrees, use only liquid powders, no bleaches, and squeezing in a machine is not allowed.

In other options, washing is allowed at temperatures up to 60 degrees, in a delicate cycle. The material shrinks a little after the first wash. It is advisable to dry it in a horizontal position so that it does not stretch from the weight of the water. Try to avoid direct sunlight to avoid fading.

Rough and tough fabrics can be washed at 80 degrees and machine-wrung. Since the material hardly wrinkles, you need to iron it with a warm iron from the inside.

Almost all people own twill weave fabrics. Such fabrics are used in many items of clothing. It's hard to imagine a modern wardrobe without denim coats and sweaters. The equipment is also dense and wear-resistant. Twill fabric is quite practical and pleasant to wear. Many suits for general workers, doctors or firefighters are made using this type of weaving.

Note! It is important to properly care for the products; if this is difficult, then it is better to trust dry cleaning.

Twill fabric is very popular at the moment. Most winter clothes are made from it, from hats to sweaters and trousers. It is loved due to its low price and high properties. But, like any material, it requires its own special care. If you adhere to it, the products will last for more than one year.

Care

Tip: Twill is a low-maintenance material. Products made from it can be machine washed. Select the program depending on the composition of the fabric. For cotton, the maximum temperature should not exceed 60°C. Items made of viscose, silk and wool should be washed on a gentle cycle.

Products made from twill, as a rule, do not wrinkle. If necessary, it is better to iron thin fabrics from the inside, and harsh fabrics from the front side. You can use alcohol to remove grease stains. It is better to dry clean delicate items. Dry silk and wool items flat.

The main types of weaves of textile fabrics.

Several times in my previous articles I have used the phrase “interlacing of textile threads.”

Let's delve a little deeper into this topic today, but just a little. Let's not get to the bottom of the details. After all, we are simple consumers and are not going to study to become weavers or take exams at a textile institute.

So, fabric is a textile fabric made on looms by interweaving threads. Some threads run along the fabric and are called warp threads, others run across the fabric and are called weft threads. These threads are located perpendicular to each other.

A little history

Matter has an ancient history. It appeared back in 300 AD and was used as a working canvas for a long time. There were no complaints about the textiles, thanks to its density and wear resistance. The gray, non-staining shade, which is so important for technical fabrics, was also valued.

The painting gained worldwide fame in the mid-19th century. It was then that Levi Strauss drew attention to him and sewed the first jeans that won the hearts of the workers. The last century brought denim to fashion catwalks, and twill weave gained worldwide popularity. Today, workwear, suits, home textiles and even bed linen are made from the material with a collective name.

§ 2. Twill, satin and satin weaving. Tissue defects

A repeating weave pattern in fabric is called rapbrt. Rapport is determined by the number of threads included in it. A distinction is made between warp rapport R0 and weft rapport Ry. The weave is also characterized by a shift - a number showing how many threads are removed from the overlap of the next thread from the previous one. A distinction is made between vertical shift - between adjacent warp threads and horizontal shift - between adjacent weft threads.

Simple weaves include: plain, twill, satin and satin.

Signs of formation of weaving twill weave

1. The minimum number of threads in a repeat is three.
2. The weaving pattern shifts by one thread with each subsequent insertion of the weft thread.

Twill weave fabrics (Fig. 5) are distinguished by characteristic narrow oblique stripes (lining twill, tartan, etc.). On the front side of the fabric, the oblique stripes are more convex. If you look at the fabric in the direction of the warp threads, they run from bottom to top and from left to right.

Rice. 5. Twill weave

Such fabrics are characterized by high slip. Therefore, when cutting, it is necessary to ensure that there is no distortion of the fabric during laying.

Signs of the formation of weaving satin and satin weaves

1. The minimum number of threads in a repeat is five.
2. The weaving pattern is shifted in each horizontal row by two threads.

For fabrics made with satin and satin weaves, the front side is smooth and shiny due to the rare interweaving of the warp and weft threads and is sharply different from the back side.

If the front side of the fabric is made from weft threads, the fabric is called satin, and the weave is called satin (Fig. 6).

Rice. b. Satin weave

If the right side of the fabric is formed from warp threads, the fabric is called satin, and the weave is called satin (Fig. 7). Some cotton, linen and silk fabrics are produced using satin weave.

Rice. 7. Satin weave

Satin and satin weave fabrics have the following advantages and disadvantages.

Advantages:

• shiny surface;
• beautiful appearance.

Flaws:

• severe crumbling;
• slipping during pastille and sewing, which can cause fabric distortion.

Fabric defects

Before cutting, the fabric is examined along its entire length and width in order to determine whether there are weaving defects on it, i.e. defects, damage. These defects appear when threads break and the mechanisms of the weaving machine go wrong.

Weaving defects spoil the appearance of the finished product, so when cutting it is necessary to identify, take into account and work around them. To do this, the detected defects are outlined with chalk or thread, contrasting in color to the fabric.

The main weaving defects include the following. Thickening of the thread - the warp or weft threads are denser than the rest of the fabric threads (Fig. 8).

Rice. 8. Thickening the thread

Violation of the integrity of the fabric - the warp or weft threads are destroyed, i.e. holes have formed (Fig. 9).

Rice. 9. Violation of tissue integrity

When printing a design on fabric, printing defects may occur. The causes of defects are various: damage to the printing roller of the machine, contamination of the dye, poor preparation of the fabric for printing.

There are local printing defects, present in a limited area of ​​the fabric, and widespread, located along the entire length of the fabric.

Printed areas are areas with a missing or unclear image of the pattern (Fig. 10).

Rice. 10. Unprinted places

A serif is a strip of fabric without a pattern. It is obtained during printing due to the formation of a fold during drawing (Fig. 11).

Pattern skew is a defect in the form of skew of weft threads in relation to the edge, which occurs when the fabric is unevenly tensioned during printing. Distortions of stripes and cells are clearly visible in the tissues (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12. Skewed pattern

Practical work No. 2

Making paper designs in twill, satin and satin weaves

Materials and tools:

ruler, pencil, paper, scissors, glue, textbook, workbook.

Making a twill weave layout

1. Cut out two squares measuring 14x14 cm from paper.
2. Mark the squares with vertical lines every 1 cm.
3. On one square, draw an additional horizontal line, departing 1 cm from the edge. Cut the square into strips up to the intended horizontal line.
4. Cut the second square into strips along the marked vertical lines.
5. Interlace the strips as shown in Figure 13.

Rice. 13. Twill weave layout

Making a satin weave layout

Points 1-4 - see the description of the twill weave layout. 5.

Weave the strips as shown in Figure 14.

Rice. 14. Satin weave layout

Making a satin weave layout

Points 1-4 - see the description of the twill weave layout.

5. Weave the strips as shown in Figure 15.

Rice. 15. Satin weave layout

Glue the finished weave designs into your workbook.

New words and concepts

Rapport, twill weave, satin weave, satin weave, weaving defects, printing defects.

Twill (orange, cornflower, red, yellow) - 17с203, Kr. October, lat. 150, density 240, cotton 100%

PRICE: 177.00 rub.
per linear meter. Add to cart You can order cotton twill in any quantities you need right now. On the website salfetka-tehnicheskaya.ru you can choose the fabric of the desired size and density. Delivery of the order is offered to any city in the Russian Federation.

Cotton twill - overview of fabric features.