An elongated vest is a versatile and practical addition to a woman's wardrobe. Firstly, vests are always in fashion, secondly, they are perfectly combined with different styles of skirts and trousers, and thirdly, sleeveless vests are suitable for women of any age and build. By visually correcting the silhouette, an elongated vest makes the figure slimmer. And one more important plus - sewing an elongated sleeveless vest using a pattern is very simple! To do this, it is enough to have basic sewing skills. Our article is intended for dressmakers with different levels of training. Choose the option that suits you best and get to work!
Creating a pattern for an elongated vest
The basic pattern of a straight silhouette dress with darts is used as a basis.
We transfer the chest dart into the side seam. To do this, mark a point on it, stepping back 4 cm from the armhole. Then we connect it to the top of the chest dart. Cut along the drawn line. Closing the chest dart. In this case, the side one opens along the incision.
Back modeling
At the waist, set aside 1 cm from the middle of the back and draw a perpendicular straight line to the bottom line. Draw a pattern curve upward, connecting the point at the waist with the point in the center of the segment between the bottom of the neckline and the armhole line.
We increase the size of the rollout. We deepen it in the center of the back by 5 mm and expand it along the shoulder line by 2 cm. Draw a new neck line along the pattern.
We expand and deepen the armhole. To do this, set aside 15 mm along the shoulder seam, and 20 mm down the side line.
Front modeling
We deepen and widen the armhole as described for the back.
For the fastener, set aside 2 cm along the waist level to the right and draw a perpendicular line down. We extend it upward to chest level. We deepen and widen the rollout on the front part, setting aside 2 cm along the center and shoulder lines.
Our vests have a straight silhouette, so we will not make waist darts and will make the side seam straight.
A little history
The history of the creation of the modern Tatar national costume dates back to the 18th century, although, according to many historians and researchers, the main characteristic features of clothing began to emerge during the Middle Ages. The rather broad concept of “suit” combines things that were worn not only in Tatarstan, but also in the Volga region, Kazan, and Crimea. The formation of the outfit was influenced by lifestyle, locality, traditions, religion, and especially oriental motifs.
According to beliefs, the soul of the deceased left the body through holes and holes in clothing, so the Tatars were very scrupulous about these elements. To circulate positive energy and closeness to nature, any kind of cutouts were treated with special patterns; initially these were arrows, later they were replaced by spirals and curls. In addition, the canvas was covered with an ornament, which was used as a talisman. It was applied only to certain places: the patterns were placed as densely as possible on the upper part of a woman’s outfit, because it is with her breasts that every mother feeds her children, the pelvic area was considered especially intimate, so it was not decorated with anything.
The outfit was sewn using fur, natural soft leather, and expensive cloth. Shoes and hats were selected taking into account weather conditions. Jewelry with large stones, beads, feathers, laces, and expensive metals was actively used. The fully assembled set was multifunctional and variable, suitable for holidays and everyday life, horseback riding, nomadic life, and was widely used during the performance of national dances.
Today, the national outfit is used in folk art, at holidays, and for performances on stage.
Pattern of an elongated sleeveless vest
For this model, we shorten the main pattern to the desired length (usually about 20 cm). If it is too long for your height, you can shorten it by a larger amount. We leave the rest unchanged. To mark the pockets, set aside 20-25 cm from the side dart and mark the upper boundary point. We place the second one along the same straight line 10-15 cm lower. Then we model the burlap.
We retake the resulting patterns.
Pattern of an elongated vest with a dropped shoulder
We decide on the length of the product. On the basic vest pattern, we reduce the armhole by moving the extreme points to the left/right by 2 cm (see drawing).
Please note that on the front part this distance is laid out along the slope lines of the darts.
To build a new shoulder line, extend it by 5 cm and lower the end point by 1 cm. We build new pattern lines for the armhole.
From the top point of the roll-out we build a convex neck profile, matching it with the center line of the front. We remove the indentation for the fastener modeled on the basic vest pattern.
The model includes a welt pocket with a flap.
If you wish, you can not complete the pocket, but limit it to the valve. In this case we will get a false pocket.
To construct the valve pattern, we build a rectangle with dimensions of 9 by 15 cm. Then we move the lower points 3 cm to the left. We get a pattern in the shape of a parallelogram. We outline the location of the pocket on the front part.
We draw a frame-slot for the pocket 2 by 13 cm and mark its location under the flap.
All we have to do is outline the location of the buttons. The first will be at a distance of 10 cm from the bottom point of the rollout, the second - 15 cm from the first.
Casual outfits
The everyday costume of the Tatars was made in a minimalist style, all elements were worn freely. The home headdress of a Tatar woman was a scarf, and for men a skullcap. Also in the national image there were special decorations that made it possible to outwardly determine a person’s financial condition and his status in society.
Cloth
Pants, shirts, and outerwear had different lengths, widths, decor and were made from budget or expensive fabrics. Each traditional element fit freely to the figure: the sleeves were wide, the hem of the skirt fluttered, the camisole was wraparound. Differences in everyday attire by gender:
Hats
A headdress was considered an obligatory element of the traditional Tatar costume. Girls wore a multi-layered “construction” on their heads, consisting of the following elements: fabric, bedspread, hoop, hat or scarf. With the help of the latter, the blanket was fixed on the head.
Interesting facts about women's hats:
The men's headdress consisted of two parts: the lower part (for everyday wear at home) and the upper part (intended for going out). For the home, a men's skullcap was used, which covered only the top of the head. Felt or fabric hats, bureks, and turbans were worn over a small cap. Bright skullcaps with ornaments, made of expensive fabrics, were intended for young guys. Adults and elderly Tatars chose plain hats.
Shoes
Tatars wore boots all year round. For summer, softer leather was used; in winter, shoes were stuffed with sheepskin and cotton wool. Stockings made of cloth or woolen thread were worn under boots, felt boots, and galoshes. They were mostly sewn in white.
The name of traditional Tatar boots varied:
Any Tatar footwear has a characteristic feature: toes pulled up. According to ancient belief, one should not scratch one’s native soil.
Tatars also wore felt boots in winter and put on galoshes for housework. Shoes were chosen for celebrations and dances. The women's version had patterns, applique, embroidery with gold threads, and was often complemented by a small heel.
Accessories
The main men's accessories were rings with large stones and signets; for a high-status woman, a nakosnik (headdress) was offered. An obligatory part of the folk costume is a belt with a large buckle. A sling was considered an unusual decoration - this is the name of an embroidered fabric ribbon that was thrown over the shoulder. If a girl adhered to Islam, she had special pockets for storing prayers.
To complement a casual or festive look, women have always worn earrings in the form of rings or with large stones and beaded tassels. The necklace was massive and hid a too revealing neckline on a woman’s shirt, and also held together the main elements of a traditional Tatar costume. Under the influence of Russians, Caucasians, and Asians, fashionable girls added three-bead earrings and nose rings to their jewelry boxes.
Children's suits
Children's clothing for newborns was made from natural fabrics that kept the baby warm and not rotted. As soon as the sons and daughters grew up, the Tatar folk costume acquired gender differences. For girls, red, burgundy, green or blue colors were used. The clothes were multi-tiered, but always covered the neck and arms, and were made in maxi length. On the head is a national headdress with a long translucent veil reaching to the middle of the back.
A boy's suit should be dark blue, brown or black. The shirt is elongated, wide, the sleeves are complemented by cuffs. The presence of a camisole is required. The trousers are wide, made in a contrasting color with the top. Starting from 5–6 years old, decorative elements were applied to the shirt and camisole: embroidery, ribbons, beads. Teenage and youth outfits did not differ from adult clothing.
How to sew an elongated vest from a men's jacket
From a men's jacket you can sew a stylish women's vest with a wrap and an asymmetrical zipper.
For sewing we will need:
- jacket - single or double breasted;
- fasteners - short zippers - 2 pcs.;
- fastener - long zipper - 1 pc.;
- threads and sewing supplies.
How to sew a vest with your own hands
We rip off the buttons of the jacket.
We outline the armhole line along which we will cut off the sleeves.
Cut off unnecessary sleeves.
Try on the product and adjust the width to your size. We select the excess in the side seams and pin them. We first chop off the front flanges to avoid asymmetry. We cut off the excess and process the cuts with a facing.
We process the armhole sections with binding.
Using a basting stitch, we sew a zipper to one side of the jacket - vest.
We fold the shelves overlapping, overlapping the loops of the second side, and pin them together.
Sew on the second side of the zipper.
We try it on and try to fasten the zipper. If adjustment is not required, attach the zipper.
We decide on the location of two short zippers and sew them on.
What colors to choose
Plump young ladies prefer dark colors, hoping that they will hide all figure flaws. Try sewing a vest in rich colors, and wear a blouse or T-shirt in soothing colors underneath. White things look very nice.
Also choose models in neutral colors: gray, sand, black, to multiply the possibilities of packaging with other wardrobe items.
Fashion designers offer Marsala, khaki, and dark blue fashionable shades. For summer there are pistachio, violet, mint and blue shades.
How to sew a vest from a women's jacket
For sewing we need to prepare:
- jacket for alteration;
- jewelry for decoration.
Description
We repeat the first steps from the previous description.
We replace buttons.
We decorate as you wish.
Modern interpretation
A modern suit is more of a stylization than a traditional outfit in its purest form. It has brighter colors that look catchy, elegant and attract attention at traditional celebrations and during dances. Rich floral patterns, expensive fabrics, and kalfak remain mandatory elements of a stylized folk costume. The hat can have more modern shapes; it is sewn to match the dress or vest.
Modern girls mostly wear long A-line dresses with flounces on the sleeves and a stand-up collar. The style may vary, but the closeness of the outfit is still a prerequisite. The headdress remained unchanged. A modern Tatar wears wide trousers and a camisole; sometimes a belt is used to gird his shirt. The men's suit has undergone virtually no changes, except that it looks much more stylish and appropriate for fashion trends of the 21st century. Although there are increasing trends in the Europeanization of everyday clothing of the Tatars, the national costume is still deeply revered, because it vividly embodies the originality of culture and the amazing skill of folk art accumulated over centuries.
Vest with shawl collar
Patterns are made for sizes 40 to 52.
The model is quite complex to make and requires mastery of outerwear sewing skills.
To work you need:
- main fabric: 1.7-1.9 m (depending on size);
- dublerin: 1.1-1.8 m (depending on the width of the dublerin and the size of the product);
- lining fabric - 1.3-1.6 m (depending on size).
You can more accurately calculate the fabric consumption by performing a preliminary layout of the patterns.
For sewing, it is recommended to use thick woolen fabrics, usually used for making coats: drape, cloth, bouclé. Lighter versions such as suit fabrics are also suitable. An elongated vest made of velvet, jacquard, velor, or heavy suit silk will look great.
Patterns
We must make patterns for the back, front, and hems. The facing patterns for the armholes and lining are not shown separately; they are made according to the patterns of the corresponding parts.
The increase in exhaust gas is 12 cm, since this model has free volume. You can wear a thick sweater under the vest or wear the vest as a double-breasted vest.
Description
When marking patterns on the material, it is important to take into account the direction of the grain thread. Accurate adherence to the dimensions of the allowances, especially on the collar and sides, is also of great importance. Such care will ensure that the collar fits correctly and will simplify its processing.
In addition, be sure to transfer design lines and notches onto the fabric. For example, notches at the waistline and at the bottom of the lapel bend serve as a guide when assembling a vest.
In order to save material, the selection can be cut from several parts. The main thing is that the joining seam does not fall above the level of the fold of the lapel. If we sew from thick material, then the seams at the joints of the right and left hems should not overlap each other.
Allowance values:
- seams on the shoulders, sides, central seam, on the dart, pocket entrance, seams on dots and facings - 1.0-1.2 cm;
- lower cut - 3.5-4.0 cm;
- departure of the side and collar - 0.7-1.0 cm;
- the lift-off of the edge is 1.0-1.2 cm.
There is no need to provide allowances for the sprout, armholes, collar sewing lines, or the inner edge of the hem.
For allowances on the flange and hem, it is important to maintain a difference of 0.3-0.5 cm. For thick materials it should be maximum.
If there is a vent along the central seam of the back, then the allowance for these seams should be 5-6 cm.
Layout of patterns on material for small sizes - see below.
Larger patterns are laid out differently.
Sewing
We duplicate the back part below the shoulder blades with doubler material, cutting out the cut in a large zigzag. The front halves, hems and facings are duplicated in their entirety (except for allowances).
We process the sides and start working on the lining.
We cut out the lining according to the same patterns as the main parts, reducing them by the amount of facings and facings.
We provide allowances:
- seams on the shoulders and sides - 1.0-1.2 cm;
- central seam of the back if there is a vent - 5-6 cm;
- along the central seam of the back we place an allowance - a fold on top measuring 2 cm;
- armhole and hem sections - 2.0-2.5 cm.
We sew a vest, like all products with a lining.
Warm models
Summer won't last forever, so you need to have a quilted vest in your wardrobe. It is suitable for a picnic or an evening walk. You can choose a feminine fitted wardrobe item with a stand-up collar or a straight model in the Chanel style. Quilted items are even worn with dresses, blouses or shirts.
Young girls love quilts so much that they wear them everywhere. Cozy, stitched vests not only look stylish, but also keep you warm. The peculiarity of the quilted material is that it is created from several layers, so it retains heat well.
Auto-ladies love to wear things made from natural fur. If you are afraid of looking bulky, then choose products with leather inserts.
And if you really want to have something with long pile, take a closer look at leather or textile models with fur inserts.
Ready-made patterns for a stylish vest
An elongated sleeveless vest with a sewn-in side is suitable for slender girls and plump ladies from sizes 42 to 62. Simple free patterns made for several sizes:
- 36 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 82-66-88 - 42 (Russian);
- 38 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 86-70-92 - 44 (Russian);
- 40 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 90-74-96 - 46 (Russian);
- 44 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 98-82-104 - 50 (Russian);
- 46 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 102-86-108 - 52 (Russian);
- 48 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 106-90-112 - 54 (Russian);
- 50 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 110-94-116 - 56 (Russian);
- 52 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 114-98-120 - 58 (Russian);
- 54 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 118-102-124 - 60 (Russian);
- 56 (euro) (chest-waist-hips) 122-106-128 - 62 (Russian).
Festive national clothes
The national costume for celebration has always had an abundance of decorative elements; such clothing was made from expensive fabrics, and even today it looks chic. A special place in the wardrobe was given to the wedding dress. According to traditions, it was made from materials of cherry, green, turquoise, and light blue. But in modern versions there are also white outfits, which in the 18th and 19th centuries were considered mourning. Mandatory conditions are the closeness of the dress and the maxi length. The girl wears a cloth or an embroidered kalfak on her head. A blue suit is offered for the groom, it has a lot of patterns, satin ribbons, and a fur collar. The newlyweds wear patterned boots made using mosaic technique on their feet.
A modern groom can afford to wear an ordinary European suit, while decorating it with satin ribbons and ornaments. Instead of a jacket, Tatar wedding looks are complemented with a velvet camisole with short sleeves.
The Tatar dance costume includes a flared vest trimmed with fur or a short camisole. The dancer puts a cap with a tassel or a veil on his head. The outfit must be loose, and the hem must be well adjusted during active movements.
Color spectrum
The most universal colors, naturally, will be white, gray and black. Long black vests complement casual clothing, office wear, and evening wear well. White can add extra lightness to a summer look, and will go great with jeans and black dress pants.
This color also perfectly emphasizes bright clothes. It makes bright shades look much richer. With the unconditional versatility of black and white, do not ignore other colors. For example, beige, which can easily compare with them in its versatility. And an image designed in soothing colors can, on the contrary, be enlivened with an elegant bright vest.
Combinations for cool weather
A long, warm sleeveless vest made of wool will be an excellent solution for cool weather, if it’s too early to put on a coat or a demi-season jacket, but you already want to warm up. Turtlenecks or knitted sweaters are suitable for wearing under a sleeveless vest; you can experiment with thick knitted sweaters, but then you need to try to balance out a too massive top with a narrow skirt or trousers, and it is better to choose shoes with heels. A harmonious retro-style outfit will come from a straight-cut suede sleeveless vest with a turtleneck and a flared knee-length skirt. It can be complemented with a wide-brimmed hat.
