What is PVC material and where is it used?

Good afternoon to everyone who has visited my website, where I share everything that is “sewn together with back-breaking labor.” Today we are talking about duplicating parts when sewing clothes . I will try to tell you about all the rules, tricks and subtleties that I know.

We will remember the rules of heat setting, that is, duplicating clothes using adhesive methods. Glueless duplication is a big complex topic in which I am definitely not an expert. My “respect and deep respect” to those who own the technology. For us, in order to sew with dignity, it is enough to know the rules for handling glue stocks. Moreover, the choice of thermoplastic materials on the market (dublerins, non-woven fabrics) suits every taste and budget.

Hot-melt adhesive gasket materials

I don’t pretend to give a complete review, but I’ll go over the main positions that I use myself.

1. Doublerin - This is an ordinary fabric, on one side of which a layer of glue is applied. Dublerins differ in density, base composition, extensibility, as well as the nature of application of the adhesive coating (height and frequency of glue dots). I mainly use duplerins: -collar, not too dense - thin and stretchable on a knitted basis. This is the number one stock in my workshop. Invisible, flexible, does not spoil the properties of the base, and at the same time helps to keep its shape. Improves the appearance of the most unsightly matter. Chiffon duplerin from Hensel is my main assistant. Expensive, but worth the money. - with a base like gauze. I also buy German-made ones, they are cheaper than knitted ones and are denser. I strengthen coat parts, sometimes the sides of jackets.

   
   dublerin on a knitted chiffon base Hensel

   
   cotton-based dublerin

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   Hensel double collar collar

2. woven interlining is a non-woven cushioning material with an adhesive coating. It comes in different thicknesses and densities. Thread stitched and simple. I rarely use non-woven fabrics, mainly in shirt trims or dress collars, and even then I prefer double fabric on a chiffon base. I will choose non-woven fabric if I am making a product from inexpensive fabric. I only buy thin thread stitching. Non-woven edges . There are thread-stitched and simple ones. Application: duplicating cuts, seams.
3. Excellent material, comfortable, but expensive. In order to save money, I cut strips of the required width myself from the materials that I have on hand.
4. Adhesive corsage tapes . This is a material for making belts. Available in different widths, single or double, with perforation along the edge, which makes marking easier and allows the belt to be perfectly straight.
5. Glue webs and meshes. It's just a layer of glue, no backing. They completely kill the plasticity of the fabric, making the part “wooden”. Never buy or use them. If they are still present in your workshop, then find them and throw them away, so God forbid they stick somewhere.

   
   corsage adhesive tape

   
   non-woven thin

   
   thread-stitched interlining

The most common question that arises when duplicating is: what parts should I duplicate? There are a lot of subtleties here, and in one case we will duplicate the same detail, but not in another. To understand WHAT to strengthen, you need to understand WHY. It’s like in any problem: when you understand the essence of the process, you don’t need to memorize the solution algorithm - you yourself will build it in the best possible way without any hints.

Properties of PVC fabric

All PVC fabrics of the Scantarp brand are divided into 2 large groups:

1. Scanplan with a quilted base. Scope of application: production of canopies, awnings, sports surfaces, advertising banners, etc.;
2. Viniplane is a material with a woven base. Used for sewing life-saving equipment, inflatable boats, trampolines, canopies, etc.

You can distinguish one type of base from another yourself - scanplan fabrics have a relief mesh consisting of square cells with a side of 2.5 to 4.0 mm. The base for the vinyl plan is a flat, alternating weave of strands with a width of 0.8 to 1.5 mm each.

The surface of the material can be smooth matte or glossy, the latter is considered more durable. In addition, shiny technical fabrics look more attractive and retain their aesthetic appearance for many years.

To characterize PVC fabrics, they use the weight of the material in grams per square meter of its area.

Why duplicate the details of outerwear.

1. To give shape to products (coats, jackets). As the amazing master (and my friend) Svetlana (Milo) says: “A glued shirt is a raincoat, and an unglued jacket is a shirt.”
2. Maintain the shape (style) of clothing during use (coats, jackets).
3. Protect cuts from stretching (pockets, hems, armholes, neckline)
4. make fabrics resistant to creasing (collars, cuffs)
5. increase elasticity in places of constant deformation (collars). So, we duplicate it for beauty, reliability and durability. Illustrations from the textbook “Fundamentals of sewing technology”, 2001. author Trukhanova A.T.

Strengthening decorative cuts

A slit in a skirt, a neckline in the neckline or on the back can be beautifully processed using a web tape. Allowances on the armhole or cut can be strengthened using the adhesive method. To do this you need:

• Measure the length of the allowance and cut off the corresponding piece of tape.
• Place the strip into the armhole.
• Iron thoroughly.

Advice! Pre-test the quality of the tape on any unnecessary scrap. If the material does not adhere well even at high temperatures, it is better not to use it and purchase another one. This type of glue will not stick. This can happen if the adhesive material has been stored incorrectly for a long time or is made from low-quality raw materials.

Summarize! Glue web is a universal way to solve many everyday problems related to sewing and mending clothes. It can replace the hem of trousers, hide defects in outfits and seal cuts.

What clothing items need to be duplicated?

• In outerwear, they are completely duplicated : shelves, hems, top collar, collar, flaps, leaves. Our goal is to give and maintain shape.
• Zonal (partial) duplication : sides of shelves, side parts of shelves, pocket entrances, slots. This provides extra rigidity to give shape and prevent stretching.
• Duplication of stretch cuts : bottom of product, bottom of sleeves, cuts of armholes, necks, entrance to pockets. At this stage, “turn on” your instincts. This point cannot be applied “directly and head-on”. In coats and jackets, definitely yes, we strengthen the cuts additionally. But not always in dresses. You need to feel whether it is worth making the bottoms heavier, whether it is worth reducing the plasticity of the cuts and increasing the thickness of the seams.
• Duplication is carried out before grinding down the parts.
• The direction of the lobes of the main fabric and the heat-fixing pads must match.
• As a rule, parts from the interlining are cut out without seam allowances, exactly according to the size of the pattern. Visual diagrams for duplicating clothing parts: Let's focus on these general rules and not get confused in the exceptions. Because dublerins are now produced in such a wonderful assortment that you won’t find a share in every one.

  
  duplicating the front of the jacket

  
  duplication of women's jacket

  
  front duplication of the front of the jacket, zonal duplication of the pocket entrance, additional duplication of the bottom and vents of the jacket.

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Alternative to glue

Adhesive fabric can be used as a convenient replacement for glue. It is sold in sewing accessories departments. Adhesive fabric and interlining are interlining materials in the manufacture of many garments. With their help, they enhance the rigidity of individual parts and give shape to collars and cuffs. Adhesive fabric is indispensable when sewing outerwear and jackets. It is not recommended to use interlining or other adhesive base for corduroy, velvet, silk or transparent fabrics.

The type and basis of the connecting material depends on the properties of the tissues that need to be glued or weighted. For thick suit materials, doublerin is suitable, for elastic fabrics - an adhesive lining on a knitted basis. When choosing an adhesive pad, you need to check its compatibility with the fabric. Various types of adhesive fabric need to be glued onto small pieces of fabric. Check how the density of the sample has changed, whether the gasket has darkened, or whether the drapery has become more complex.

Pattern magazines often give recommendations on the choice of adhesive interlining material, as it can affect the final appearance of the project.

Adhesive interlining is a non-woven cushioning material. It is most often used to glue or strengthen thin fabrics. Non-woven fabric is easy to distinguish from dublerin: the first one breaks easily when torn. The advantage of non-woven material is that its edges do not fray when cut, since interlining is a pressed mixture of textile fibers. But it stretches a little in the transverse direction.

Non-woven fabric is stitched with threads along the fabric. This type is used for dense fabrics. The adhesive solution can be applied spotwise or over the entire surface. The first option is suitable for gluing large items of clothing.

To glue fabrics using non-woven fabric, you need to place it between the surfaces to be fastened with the adhesive base down, carefully straighten it and iron it through the fabric. Under the influence of heat, the adhesive component will melt and firmly connect the material. Non-woven fabric can leave marks on the soleplate of the iron, so it is better to iron through an additional layer of fabric.

Details on how to glue non-woven fabric in the video:

There are several types of interlining:

1. H180 - for soft airy tissues;
2. H200 and H250 - for thin fabrics with a dense texture;
3. G405 - for dense, rather heavy materials;
4. H31G - for trouser, suit and coat fabrics;
5. F220 - for very dense materials, resistant to boiling.

To process the edges of trouser legs or the hem of a skirt, adhesive tape - “gossamer” - is often used. This is a kind of double-sided tape for fabric. It is a tape of different widths with an adhesive component on both sides. Double-sided tape is used to decorate the bottom of the product. This is especially convenient for clothes made of thin and delicate fabrics, when seams would be inappropriate. Double-sided tape can be woven, paper or synthetic.

Double-sided fabric tape is placed between the hem and the main fabric of the product and ironed. Make sure that the tape does not touch the iron. If double-sided tape is used to glue the application, it is advisable to stitch it along the contour. Double-sided fabric tape is often used to reinforce cutouts in clothing. In this case, it must be cut diagonally.

Tricks and subtleties of duplication. My experience.

• I cut out parts from thermal butt without seam allowances, exactly according to the patterns. But I lay the stitching line so that the double linen gets 1 mm into the seam. Exception: collars and cuffs.
• I duplicate the details after fitting, not before. First, I specify the shape, proportions and size of the product that suits me and the customer, then I unrip it, adjust it, and only then strengthen the parts with gaskets.
• I do several tests on pieces of material with different types of thermodublerins. I choose the best.
• For fasteners (loops, buttons, zippers) I always duplicate the material, by default.
• I always duplicate facings (except for bias tapes, of course), I prefer thin knitted doublestitches.
• In shirts and blouses: trims, collars, cuffs
• in dresses: facings, small details (cuffs, valves), collars, fasteners.
• in knitwear: sometimes the cuts are too stretchy. Shoulder - often. Depending on the properties of the knitwear and what I want to get from the product.
• in trousers and skirts: belt. Skirts have a slit.
• entrance to pockets (except patch pockets) from stretching with the edge “along the lobar”
• I regret the iron: glue from thin dublerins can penetrate outward. I use a thin dry iron, place it with the same side up and wash it often.
• There is no need to “carry” the iron over the surface. Place on the surface, press and count to yourself for up to 10 seconds. Then move the iron to the next duplicated area.
• There is no need to wash or wet adhesive dublerins. This is a completely useless activity in the realities of our days. Manufacturers have learned to make applied materials of amazing quality, and the topic of their shrinkage has become a thing of the distant past. Once again: in my practice, I have never encountered shrinkage of adhesive dublerins.
• I buy dulerins only on a natural basis - cotton, viscose.
• No need to skimp on the stock. Poor-quality, inferior adhesives can “kill” the entire appearance of the product, and reduce your work to “nothing” after the first wash. I have long made it a rule to buy good German thermal butts, more often with a thin knitted base. They are expensive now, yes. I don’t throw away the inter-curve lunges, but collect them in a bag - they are always useful later for zonal duplication or for fixing crumbling edges.
• Do you want to sew well? Never use adhesive webs or meshes. Dot.
• The question that remains open for me is whether to use steam during the duplication process. Previously, I used a steam and wet iron, but after a conversation with a Hensel specialist, who categorically rejected steam, I am practicing duplication without steam. The difference is not obvious, I continue comparisons and experiments.

Your opinion may not coincide with the opinion of the editors, represented by me, and that’s okay.

duplication of the upper cuff

duplication of collar and stand

strengthening the neckline on fraying fine wool

Not long ago I was very lucky to visit a warehouse, talk, and even write down great advice from the leading manager of the trading company Hensel. People of Kiev, for the riches of thermal butts, come here: Kiev, st. Gorky, 16 (not advertising). All dealer center specialists are trained in Germany, so these tips come directly from the manufacturer, which is very valuable.

Service life of PVC fabrics

All technical PVC fabrics sold by Skantharp have excellent adhesion, do not form creases during storage and fully comply with international quality standards.

PVC panels have a two-layer structure; the polymer coating guarantees excellent moisture-repellent characteristics of the product. The material is not afraid of temperature changes and UV radiation.

The warranty period for PVC fabrics depends on their type, intensity of abrasion, and proper use and averages from 7 to 10 years.
For all products sold, our company provides the necessary documentation confirming the guarantees of the direct manufacturer. You can purchase professional PVC fabric Scantarp from our company by filling out the Cost Request form or calling in Moscow +7 495 937 63 63, in St. Petersburg +7 812 610 33 47.

Hensel's Duplication Rules

1. Maintain the directions of the grain threads both in the fabric and in the duplerin.
2. Duplicate on a hard surface
3. The duplicated part should freeze. To do this, leave it on a hard surface for 15 minutes.
4. If you have withstood the duplication modes at the beginning, then after that any steam operations, dry cleaning, anything you like are possible.
5. Try different duplicating materials on the same fabric. Selecting the correct dublerin requires testing. Try it on a piece: are you satisfied with such density and rigidity? Or do you need a more plastic part?
6. Manufacturers offer different thermal dublerins. Pay attention to the adhesive layer: large dots, fine-grained dots, high-head dots, conical dots - all materials are different and intended for different fabrics.
7. Loose fabrics: choose a rare point, but high. A drop of glue enters the fibers of the material, penetrates and is fixed. If you take a fine-grained point, it will only catch the top fibers and will not attach securely.
8. Question: – what to do if you need to tear off the doublerin? Answer: - spray with steam, soften, peel off, and then clean off the glue with alcohol.
9. We duplicate for 16 seconds or 20 seconds, for different types of dubbing. Time must be taken!
10. Don't use steam! Dry hot iron only.
11. Question: – How to duplicate collars and cuffs? Answer: – for collar workers, the conditions for duplication are very strict. In factories for the production of shirts, special presses are installed. What can be done in a small workshop without special equipment: The surface must be absolutely flat and hard. An ironing board is not suitable, a dining table is better. The iron needs to be heavy. Press down for 25 seconds with all your weight. Make sure that the iron does not burn. Yes, not every material can withstand it, and in 25-30 seconds the fabric can be scorched. Place thin paper on the duplicating layer. No steam!
12. Special tape doublers are convenient for making belts. Single - for men's, because they use a grosgrain ribbon. And double women's.

I thank manager Irina for the amazing tour of the warehouse; I really regret that I turned on the recorder late and didn’t take my camera with me. I leave with a bag full of bundles and bags. Now I duplicate collars according to all the rules.

To be honest, after talking with a “specially trained person” I was somewhat surprised. I learned so many new things for myself, it was like I had gone through a reboot. I don’t use steam now; I press the iron on a table covered with cloth and count to 16 seconds. I'm as happy with the results as an elephant!

Your experience will add to the topic of duplication if you leave a comment. There is very little material on adhesives on the Internet, but the topic is extremely important. Correct duplication can change the appearance of the product to “excellent”, and inept duplication can “kill” it. Let's clarify the situation). I wish you all happy sewing!

How to glue a patch with an iron

There are two options for gluing a patch to fabric.

If your patch already contains an adhesive base, proceed as follows:

• The material on which we will glue the patch must be placed and properly straightened on a hard surface so that there are no creases.
• Heat up the iron and turn off the steam option.

• We remove the protective film from the applique and place it face up on the place where we plan to glue the patch. If the thermal patch is large, it is better to secure it to the fabric with pins.
• Cover the top of the patch with gauze or paper and press firmly with an iron. Iron for 30 seconds. To glue the part well.
• We wait 2 minutes and repeat the operation from the wrong side.

We recommend watching the video instructions:

If your patch does not have an adhesive base. No specialized equipment is needed to glue such an applique. For this we need thermal film

When choosing thermal film, you need to pay attention to the types of adhesive base

There are several types of glue:

• Polyamide glue. It has high elasticity and sticks in steam mode. It tolerates washing and dry cleaning well. But it holds less firmly on synthetic fabrics with special impregnations.
• Polyethylene glue is compatible with a wide range of fabrics and is suitable for gluing small parts. Glues without steam.
• Polyester glue is more suitable for synthetic fabrics. Glues without steam. Reacts well to washing and dry cleaning.

So, to glue such a thermal patch:

• Take thermal film of the required size. Apply the glossy side to the applique from the wrong side.
• Heat the iron and iron it through paper or gauze with the matte side of the thermal film facing up.
• Trim off the excess thermal film along the edge of the patch. And check how tightly it is adhered to the patch. Try peeling off the film. She must sit tight.
• If everything is in order, repeat the steps from the first point.

How to use dublerin

doublerin collar adhesive

Dublerin is used when sewing clothes of different groups - from evening to outerwear, for hats, curtains and even shoes, in order to strengthen individual parts, give them some rigidity and shape. When inserting duplicating fabric, knitted items will not stretch or sag.

How to glue

It is advisable to decate dublerin before use. This is done to avoid shrinkage during use of the finished product and washing. If the dublerin shrinks, the main fabric to which it is glued will tighten. To do this, you need to sprinkle it with water carefully so as not to damage the adhesive layer, and dry it. It is cut without seam allowance; it is necessary to ensure that the cut piece does not extend beyond the edges of the main fabric, since a trace of glue may remain on the ironing board, which may later get onto the product. The iron should be used on the “wool” or “synthetic” mode, without steam. The main fabric can be slightly moistened with water. The part is applied with an adhesive layer to the wrong side of the main fabric and pressed with a heated iron (in industrial conditions a hot press is used)

It is important to press and hold the iron for a few seconds, and not to move it over the entire surface. The glue melts, penetrates the fibers of the main fabric and bonds it quite firmly with the backup fabric.

Before you do anything with the resulting part, you need to let it cool so that the glue sets.

In the same way, dublerin sticks to knitwear, cotton, wool, fur (pressing time is reduced to two seconds).

Answer

In order for the dense cushioning material to stand out less on the finished product, its bottom can be cut off in a zigzag, then a clear continuous border will not be visible.

For curtains

Dense, non-stretchy dublerin is used when sewing rigid lambrequins. Keeps its shape very well. It is best to use corset (calico).

In needlework

When making toys, dublerin is also used to impart rigidity to some parts. For example, for the bunny ears of a tilde doll so that they do not fall.

It is also used for guilloche - burning openwork patterns on synthetic fabrics.

Clothing repair

With the help of soft knitted dublerin you can repair clothes. If a hole has formed on the product, it is enough to select cushioning fabric of the desired density and color, apply the adhesive side to the inside of the damaged area and iron it. Then iron it again from the front side. The hole will be practically unnoticeable.

On a note

There are different methods for accelerating the assembly of blocks in patchwork sewing, for example, using doublerin and non-woven fabric.