Home » Individual tailoring » Types of fabric, their characteristics and my choice
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In order for the product to turn out to be of really good quality, in addition to the hands of an experienced craftsman, it is necessary to choose a fabric that is not only appropriate and practical, but also beautiful and fashionable. To make fabric, you need a special machine that intertwines the weft threads with the warp threads, they are mutually perpendicular to each other. Depending on what type of raw material is used and how the threads are intertwined, the fabric will look one way or another.
Fabrics from the future
We live in a revolutionary era for our wardrobe. Traditional cotton, silk and knitwear have already been replaced by fabrics such as neoprene and new generation processing - for example, with a 3D effect. Technology can completely change the list of materials sold in stores. They will be able to change color, glow in the dark and absorb harmful substances (especially important for interior fabrics), take care of the skin, smell certain aromas, monitor human health and protect it from ultraviolet rays, viruses and microbes. What materials will be perceived as something ordinary in the near future, but in the meantime still surprise and delight us?
Competition "bio/mol/text"-2011
This article was submitted to the competition of popular scientific works “bio/mol/text”-2011 in the category “Best review article”.
In recent decades, alarming trends in the aging of the population, an increase in the number of diseases and disability of people of working age have become clearly visible, which urgently requires the development and introduction into clinical practice of new, more effective and affordable methods of restorative treatment of patients. Figure 1 shows how the structure of diseases is changing today.
Figure 1. World dynamics of disease incidence.
[1]
Today, science and technology offers several alternative ways to restore or replace damaged or pathological tissues and organs:
- transplantation;
- implantation;
- tissue engineering.
In this article, we will take a closer look at the possibilities and prospects of tissue engineering.
"Edible" fabrics
Equally interesting are startups developing eco-friendly fabrics from plants and what we keep in the refrigerator!
Citrus silk
Italian Orange Fiber technology makes it possible to obtain cellulose fibers from wet residues from the production of orange and tangerine juices. The fabric's characteristics resemble acetate silk, while essential oils from citrus peels moisturize and nourish the skin.
Milk wool
Qmilk fibers are extracted from casein protein from sour milk. It is similar to wool, and its antimicrobial and temperature-regulating properties are useful in clothing, car upholstery and bandages. Casein wool is made by microbiologist designer Anke Domaske from Germany.
Shellfish viscose
Japanese Crabyon fiber is extracted from the shells of crabs, lobsters and shrimp. The chitosan found in their covers is mixed with viscose. The resulting hypoallergenic mixture perfectly meets the requirements of clothing for athletes and children, for underwear and bed linen.
Mushroom suede
The Apennine startup Grado Zero supplies the market with Muskin material, which in appearance is indistinguishable from suede. But in fact, this is the skin of mushrooms growing on trees in the jungles of South America. Thermal insulation and water-repellent properties make it an excellent base for bags, hats and home furnishings.
Tea skin
And Briton Suzanne Lee is ready to share a recipe for creating leather from 30 liters of sweet tea. A shock dose of microorganisms resulting from fermentation produces thin sheets of cellulose, similar to skin. From such wet sheets, leather jackets or capes are formed directly on the mannequin.
Useful properties of modern fabrics
Selecting fabric from the huge variety of textiles is difficult, it is almost an art. It is the fabric, with its texture and color, that builds the visual image of a person. The layout and furniture are responsible for the appearance of the room, and the fabric in the interior creates the atmosphere and mood of the home. In order for the chosen fabric to be not only fashionable, but also functional, not just original, but also useful, you need to know the properties of fabrics, both new and well-known.
If fabrics are part of the interior, curtains, for example, it is important to remember that their task is not only to harmoniously combine all the elements of the room. Light, translucent canvases visually expand the space, thick curtains are designed to serve as protection from light.
The champion among new fabrics that perform light-protective functions, blackout, not only has almost 100% light resistance, it
- does not fade;
- does not shed;
- resistant to pollution;
- does not require ironing.
However, this fabric cannot have bright colors due to the presence of black thread in the fiber structure. And if blackout is appropriate in a sleeping area, where light protection is especially important, then double-sided satin is perfect for the living room, with its excellent ability to drape and form spectacular folds. Durable, durable, iridescent, shining, satin never goes out of style. This is a home textile classic.
For a bedroom or living room, curtains made of PVC fabrics are comfortable, durable, offer an incredible number of colors and designs, but due to the impossibility of frequent washing, they prefer curtains made of cotton with its useful properties - practicality, lack of allergenicity and an absolutely budget price.
When creating or purchasing ready-made clothing, one strives not only to follow fashion trends. Requirements for comfort, practicality and environmental friendliness of fabrics are often the main criteria that determine consumer demand and manufacturer offers. Modal, which appeared relatively recently, is successfully used in the sewing business. Products made from modal are breathable, hygienic, and hypoallergenic. Modal is practically weightless due to the amazing lightness of the fiber and has a low shrinkage percentage. The disadvantages of this fabric include some difficulties in caring for products made from it.
- Modal does not like deforming effects when washing;
- Modal clothing requires low temperatures when washing and ironing;
- the fabric fades quickly when exposed to direct sunlight.
In this sense, modal is significantly inferior to gabardine with its
- exceptional durability;
- ease of care; resistance to mechanical stress;
- excellent pleating ability.
Things made of gabardine keep their shape well and indicate the respectability and good sense of style of their owner.
The extraordinary contact properties of gabardine are used in advertising: printing on this fabric ensures clear logos and good readability of slogans on posters, streamers and banners.
For those whose life is connected with sports, sports knitwear of a new generation of fabrics is perfect. Such a discovery in the world of textiles as supplex, capable of stretching three times its original volume, made a real breakthrough in the production of sportswear. Products made from supplex are popular for many reasons:
- amazing elasticity ensures absolute freedom of movement;
- the fabric has a dense structure, which is why it is not see-through;
- such clothing does not require specific care, dries quickly, and does not stretch at the fold;
- biflex is extremely wear-resistant.
However, due to the fact that this knitwear is obtained by spinning synthetic fibers, it has low air permeability and accumulates static electricity.
Therefore, when talking about an alternative to supplex, we should call interlock. Made from 100% cotton, interlock:
- ensures free air circulation and a comfortable body temperature;
- absolutely safe, recommended even for children;
- does not cause allergic reactions.
Products made from such knitwear are lightweight tracksuits that combine strength and softness.
When choosing clothes for babies, they first of all think about environmental friendliness, hygiene, and hypoallergenicity. Among the fabrics recommended for children, the cooler has no equal in its:
- lightness and airiness;
- hygiene;
- hygroscopicity;
- strength;
- crease resistance;
- ease of care.
Not the last consideration in favor of the cooler is its affordable price. Although microfiber is approved in products even for infants, it cannot be cheap if it is of high quality.
Newfangled fabrics with useful properties are also used in sewing workwear. However, Oxford, Alova, Taslan, with their lightness, thermostaticity, and wear resistance, tend to quickly fade from light. The long-known Arcelon, with the same useful properties, but greatly enhanced, competes well with innovative materials in the manufacture of clothing used in the most extreme conditions of both work and leisure.
Many of today's well-known fabrics were once amazing new products. Perhaps very soon, room decor with fabrics made of brass, steel and rose gold from Galina, Tempo, Mosaica, clothing made from metamaterials “quantum Stealth” and star rain will become common not only in August thanks to the fantastic glow of fabric from Lumi Gram.
New luxury
The famous English journalist Bradley Quinn predicts by 2090 the complete disappearance of fabrics as such - instead of them, the futuristic fashionista will wear a multisensory “second skin”, onto which she can download different colors and designs, special effects and video patterns every day.
But the predictor immediately makes a reservation: such technologies are so widely replicated among the masses that custom tailoring will be considered a real luxury (as now) - hand-sewn products from natural fabrics will become a true rarity and a work of art.
Painting on fabric, types of painting
There are several types of painting on fabric: hot, cold, knotted, free.
hot painting on fabric
- Hot. Painting uses wax, which is applied to the fabric, and it does not allow the paint to spread. After the image is completed, the wax is removed from the product.
- Cold. In cold batik, the dye is applied to the silk while it is cold.
- Free. When painting freely, the fabric is stretched onto a canvas, treated with a saline solution and a colorful design is applied.
- Knotted. Batik fabric is painted using the technology of a rolled knot, thread, cord. The result is original, unique masterpieces of painting.
free painting on fabric
knot painting on fabric
Tissue engineering - modern innovative technology
A fundamentally new approach - cell and tissue engineering - is the latest achievement in the field of molecular and cellular biology. This approach has opened up broad prospects for the creation of effective biomedical technologies, with the help of which it becomes possible to restore damaged tissues and organs and treat a number of severe human metabolic diseases.
The goal of tissue engineering is the design and cultivation of living, functional tissues or organs outside the human body for subsequent transplantation into a patient in order to replace or stimulate the regeneration of a damaged organ or tissue. In other words, the three-dimensional structure of the tissue must be restored at the site of the defect.
It is important to note that conventional implants made of inert materials can only eliminate the physical and mechanical deficiencies of damaged tissues, in contrast to engineered tissues, which also restore biological (metabolic) functions. That is, tissue regeneration occurs, and not its simple replacement with synthetic material.
However, to develop and improve methods of reconstructive medicine based on tissue engineering, it is necessary to develop new highly functional materials. These materials used to create bioimplants should give tissue-engineered structures characteristics inherent to living tissues:
- self-healing ability;
- ability to maintain blood supply;
- the ability to change structure and properties in response to environmental factors, including mechanical stress.
Application and care
Modal fabric is often found in underwear, bedding and towels. In general, this material is an excellent alternative to cotton items, which means it can be used for the same purposes. One hundred percent modal requires the same care regimes and procedures as cotton. Products made from this fabric mixed with other fibers should be washed at temperatures no higher than 40 degrees . The general rule is to use the washing recommendations for the most delicate threads in the composition. It is recommended to use low speed washing machine modes. To whiten or remove stains, it is recommended to dilute cleaning products, so your item will last longer.
If you use a machine spin, then you need to remove the item from the drum while it is still slightly damp. This will help avoid the formation of unnecessary folds and creases in the fabric. It is best to dry the item by laying it on a towel and smoothing it with your hands.
Modal fabric should be ironed at low temperatures. When ironing, you can use steam.
The first experience of tissue-engineered construct transplantation in the clinic
Figure 7. Paolo Macchiarini , whose master class “Cellular technologies for tissue engineering and organ cultivation” was held in Moscow in 2010.
“Paolo Macchiarini – speculation and facts”
In the fall of 2008, the head of the clinic of the University of Barcelona (Spain) and the Medical School of Hannover (Germany), Professor Paolo Macchiarini (Fig. 7), performed the first successful operation to transplant a bioengineered equivalent of the trachea to a patient with stenosis of the main left bronchus for 3 cm (Fig. [11].
A 7 cm long segment of cadaveric trachea was taken as a matrix for the future transplant. To obtain a natural matrix with properties superior to anything that can be made from polymer tubes, the trachea was cleared of surrounding connective tissue, donor cells and histocompatibility antigens. The cleansing consisted of 25 cycles of devitalization using 4% sodium deoxycholate and deoxyribonuclease I (the process took 6 weeks). After each cycle of devitalization, a histological examination of the tissue was performed to determine the number of remaining nucleated cells, as well as an immunohistochemical study to determine the presence of histocompatibility antigens HLA-ABC, HLA-DR, HLA-DP and HLA-DQ in the tissue. Using a bioreactor of their own design (Fig. 9), scientists uniformly applied a cell suspension with a syringe to the surface of a slowly rotating section of the trachea. The graft, half immersed in the culture medium, was then rotated around its axis to alternately expose the cells to the medium and air.
Figure 8. Transplantation of a trachea to a patient.
[10]
Figure 9. Bioreactor for creating a tissue-engineered trachea equivalent. A - diagram of the bioreactor, side view. B - sealing of the bioreactor. B - bioreactor with a tissue-engineered equivalent of the trachea in situ. D - bioreactor after removal of the tracheal equivalent. D — view of the tracheal equivalent immediately before surgery.
Clinical transplantation of a tissue-engineered airway
The trachea equivalent was in the bioreactor for 96 hours; it was then transplanted into the patient. During the operation, the main left bronchus and the section of the trachea to which it adjoined were completely removed. A graft was sewn into the resulting gap, and some discrepancy between the diameters of the lumens of the tissue-engineered equivalent and the recipient's bronchus was overcome due to the elasticity of the donor tissue.
Ten days after the operation, the patient was discharged from the clinic without signs of respiratory failure and immune reaction of transplant rejection. According to computed tomography data, with the help of which a virtual 3D reconstruction of the respiratory tract was made, the tissue-engineered equivalent was practically indistinguishable from the patient’s own bronchi (Fig. 10).
Figure 10. Virtual 3D reconstruction of the airways according to computed tomography and bronchoscopy data before surgery (A, B) and 1 month later and after replacing the stenotic area of the left main bronchus with a tissue-engineered equivalent (C, D). The arrow indicates stenosis.
Clinical transplantation of a tissue-engineered airway
Production
Modal is obtained as a result of the so-called “viscose process” - obtaining cellulose from wood chips and special chemical processing of this mass to produce fiber. It belongs to synthetic fabrics because it is obtained chemically, but it has all the properties of natural cotton, only improved in some aspects.
Modal is an incredibly thin fiber. Ten thousand meters of these fibers weigh only one gram. Therefore, they are often mixed with cotton, spandex or other natural and man-made fibers.
There is also micromodal, a fabric with even finer fibers.
According to the method of weaving the fabric, modal can be double-sided or single-sided. In the first case, the fabric has a terry surface, and in the second, it is smooth as silk.
"Proprietary" tissue engineering strategy
Today, one of the tissue engineering strategies is as follows:
- Selection and cultivation of own or donor stem cells.
- Development of a special carrier for cells (matrix) based on biocompatible materials.
- Application of a cell culture to a matrix and cell proliferation in a bioreactor with special cultivation conditions.
- Direct introduction of a tissue-engineered construct into the area of the affected organ or preliminary placement in an area well supplied with blood for maturation and formation of microcirculation inside the construct (prefabrication).
Some time after implantation into the host’s body, the matrices completely disappear (depending on the rate of tissue growth), and only new tissue will remain at the site of the defect. It is also possible to introduce a matrix with already partially formed new tissue (“biocomposite”). Of course, after implantation, the tissue-engineered structure must retain its structure and functions for a period of time sufficient to restore normally functioning tissue at the site of the defect, and integrate with surrounding tissues. But, unfortunately, ideal matrices that satisfy all the necessary conditions have not yet been created.
Cells and matrices are the basis for tissue engineering
The most important element for success is the presence of the required number of functionally active cells capable of differentiating, maintaining the appropriate phenotype, and performing specific biological functions. The source of cells can be body tissues and internal organs. It is possible to use appropriate cells from a patient in need of reconstructive therapy or from a close relative (autogenous cells). Cells of various origins can be used, including primary cells (Fig. 2) and stem cells (Fig. 3).
Figure 2. Primary human cell.
Library of the Kyokushin Federation of Yuzhnouralsk
Figure 3. Human stem cell.
Use of embryos for research is endorsed
Primary cells are mature cells of a specific tissue that can be taken directly from a donor organism (ex vivo) by surgery. If primary cells are taken from a specific donor organism, and subsequently it is necessary to implant these cells into it as a recipient, then the likelihood of rejection of the implanted tissue is eliminated, since the maximum possible immunological compatibility of the primary cells and the recipient is present. However, primary cells, as a rule, are not able to divide - their potential for reproduction and growth is low. When cultivating such cells in vitro (through tissue engineering), dedifferentiation, that is, loss of specific, individual properties, is possible for some types of cells. For example, chondrocytes cultured outside the body often produce fibrous rather than transparent cartilage.
Since primary cells are unable to divide and may lose their specific properties, there is a need for alternative cell sources for the development of cell engineering technologies. Stem cells became such an alternative.
Figure 4. Bioceramics made from calcium orthophosphates.
biomaster.co
Stem cells are undifferentiated cells that have the ability to divide, self-renew and differentiate into various types of specialized cells under the influence of specific biological stimuli (see: “There was a simple cell, it became a stem cell” [3]). Stem cells are divided into “adult” [2] and “embryonic”. Embryonic stem cells are formed from the inner cell mass of early embryonic development, while adult stem cells are formed from adult tissue, the umbilical cord, or even fetal tissue. However, there is an ethical problem associated with the inevitable destruction of the human embryo when obtaining embryonic stem cells [4]. Therefore, it is preferable to “extract” cells from the tissues of an adult organism. For example, in 2007, Shinya Yamanaka from Kyoto University in Japan discovered induced pluripotent stem cells (iPSCs) obtained from human integumentary tissues (mainly skin). IPSCs open up truly unprecedented opportunities for regenerative medicine, although many problems still need to be solved before they seriously enter medical practice (see: “The snowball of problems with pluripotency” [5]).
To guide the organization, maintain growth and differentiation of cells during the reconstruction of damaged tissue, a special cell carrier is required - a matrix, which is a three-dimensional network similar to a sponge or pumice (Fig. 4). To create them, biologically inert synthetic materials, materials based on natural polymers (chitosan, alginate, collagen) and biocomposites are used. For example, bone tissue equivalents are obtained by directed differentiation of stem cells from bone marrow, umbilical cord blood or adipose tissue into osteoblasts, which are then applied to various materials that support their division (for example, donor bone, collagen matrices, etc.).
Literature
- Volova T.G. Materials for medicine, cell and tissue engineering. Krasnoyarsk: IPK SFU, 2009;
- "Adult Stem Cells". RusDocs;
- There was a simple cell, it became a stem cell;
- Sparing stem cells;
- A snowball of pluripotency problems;
- Woollacott E. (2011). Artificial blood vessels made through 3D printing. TechGuru Daily;
- Shishatskaya E. I. (2010). "BIOPLASTOTAN: compatible with life." "Science at first hand";
- “The scientific development created by the young Krasnoyarsk scientist aroused great interest among doctors.” (2010). Medvestnik.ru;
- Trofimov I. (2010). “Winner of the Presidential Prize of the Russian Federation Ekaterina Shishatskaya: “I’ll spend the bonus money on myself and my family.” "TVNZ";
- Bates C. (2012). Patients will 'grow' new organs from their own cells to replace failing body parts, says the pioneering surgeon. DailyMail;
- "The first successful tissue-engineered trachea transplantation in the clinic." (2008). "Genes and Cells".