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In almost every wardrobe, men's and women's, you can find a coat. This is a universal piece of outerwear that can fit into any style preferences and highlight your figure. You can sew a coat from a variety of fabrics. The choice of material depends on the desired model and purpose of the product. First you need to decide whether this will be a comfortable set for wearing in cold weather or a cape exclusively for going out. In any case, in addition to aesthetic, any outerwear should also have a utilitarian function.
Product Features
It is important that the base coat is a classic fitted, straight or oversized silhouette. The same thing applies to colors. If you plan to create a universal model for every day, then neutral shades are ideal - black, blue, gray, beige. For a piece for special occasions, you can look at a pastel palette or bright, rich colors such as red, fuchsia, emerald green and even white.
After determining the style, silhouette and details, the stage of fabric selection follows. The main criteria that you should pay attention to are ductility, density, elasticity and weaving features. It is worth mentioning separately how important the composition is.
A number of materials are suitable for the production of coats - natural, artificial, mixed.
Material requirements
- Wear resistance
- Thermal properties
- Practicality and comfort
- Resistance to shrinkage and creasing
Another important criterion is the time of year in which the product is planned to be worn. Usually there are winter, demi-season (for spring and autumn) and summer models. This factor determines which fabric will be most suitable. For demi-season products, warm wool is needed, since the lining is made without insulation. For winter, choosing a good, reliable insulation is much more important. And for summer, a variety of options will do - from light wool to transparent organza. You can get acquainted with the most unusual combinations and trends of outerwear for today and the next season in our “Luxury Outerwear” course.
Some tips
- The collar of the coat should be of such a size that there is room for a scarf.
- When buying a double-breasted coat, it is worth remembering that you can only wear dress shoes with it.
- Before purchasing, be sure to check all the seams: quality items have straight stitching, without protruding threads.
Choosing a coat will require a lot of time and careful preparation. This is not just buying another wardrobe item, but an investment in your image and image.
How to clean a coat at home
How to Wear a Scarf with a Coat
Choosing fabric for a coat
With the invention of high-quality adhesive materials, the process of sewing coats has been greatly simplified. Dublerin and non-woven fabric can reduce sewing time to 2-4 days. At the same time, the glueless method remains an expensive, but high-status pleasure and is used to create exclusive models in very expensive studios.
Analysis of the composition
The best and most suitable fabrics to this day remain natural. It is often recommended to take a mixed composition. A good option is a ratio of 80-90% natural fibers and 10-20% artificial fibers. This synthetic admixture provides greater wear resistance, resistance to shrinkage and creasing. 100% artificial inexpensive material should not be taken. A coat made from it will be hot in summer and cold in winter; it does not allow air and moisture to pass through well. The only exceptions are innovative polyesters, which are gaining popularity among designers and tailors in Europe and Asia.
Men's coat style
While designers are constantly reimagining coats with appliquéd elbow patches or contrasting velvet collars, there are two main styles: double-breasted and single-breasted.
Colors can range from classic black or camel to flashy red, but every season, the vast majority of coats fall into the classic category.
The single-breasted version is more minimalist and "clean", allowing you to diversify your clothing choice, from a denim shirt to an Oxford style. A double-breasted coat embodies tradition and is best paired with a classic suit.
Single-breasted (left) and double-breasted (right) coat
Wool fabrics for coats
- Worsted
- Thin cloth
- Rough cloth
Worsted fabrics are made from wool, wool mixture or mixed yarn. They are produced using the combed weaving method, resulting in a fabric that is smooth and uniform in thickness. The products retain their good shape and appearance for a long time.
Popular types of worsted fabrics
- Gabardine
- Boucle
- Tweed
- Cashmere
Gabardine
It was first used when Thomas Burberry created a trench coat for the military. The brand's coat has become iconic, and its original design and appearance remain unchanged to this day. If we talk about the properties of gabardine, it is a woolen fabric with a diagonal twill weave at an angle of 60-70 degrees. Thanks to its special structure, it practically does not get wet and protects well from the wind.
Boucle
Made from yarn with large knots on the front side, located close to each other. Bouclé is often made with a mixture of synthetic fibers. The material is obtained using linen finely patterned weave of threads. Outwardly, it is a very beautiful and elegant fabric, but it is not suitable for frequent wear: the shape is quickly lost, and the loops are pulled out.
Tweed
It is created using a combined plain or twill weave. It is distinguished by a rough textured surface; an admixture of synthetics is often introduced into the fabric. It comes in different thicknesses. It is distinguished by its plasticity and variety of created patterns. Among the functional qualities, we can highlight good wear resistance and smoothness, which ensures durability and the absence of pilling.
Cashmere
Soft and warm material made from pure wool. Produced by diagonal weaving. The colors are very diverse; cashmere can be either plain-dyed or multi-colored. This is the most expensive type of wool in the luxury segment, extracted from the undercoat of cashmere goats and made from the finest threads. It retains heat perfectly, is pleasant to wear, doesn’t get dirty much, and is hypoallergenic. The most famous and expensive cashmere products (costing from $2,300) are the Max Mara coat, an object of desire for girls all over the world. The design, construction and creation of a layout of this unique model is discussed in detail in the course “Luxury Outerwear”.
Angora
Mohair is made from the wool of the Angora goat. The fabric is soft to the touch, pleasant, with long pile. However, it should not be wetted, as it easily shrinks and loses its shape. In principle, any coat item should not be washed in a regular machine - if you dry clean it, it will last longer.
Men's coat details
What else should you pay attention to besides fabric and shape? The truth is in the details.
When you take color and material into account, coats vary in terms of small details such as: pockets, lapel style, belts and contrasting linings. You may like the army style, and then you decide to switch to the classics. Taking into account all the little touches, it is necessary to find the optimal coat that suits you.
From left to right: lapel style, collar, lining, belt
Drapery materials
These are heavy and dense fabrics with complex weaves. Made from machine-spun yarn. Most often they are two-layer, therefore they have high thermal insulating properties. The front side is made from higher quality wool. The reverse side is clearly visible. There is also a double-sided drape. This fabric will be denser, since three weave threads are used in production.
Drape is very often used to create coats. It retains heat, and its smooth surface ensures long-lasting appearance. Depending on the thickness and density, demi-season and winter models are sewn from it.
Who does it well?
Considering that a men's coat won't be the cheapest addition to your wardrobe, I advise you to take a good look around before you decide on your choice.
Men's coat brands
It seems that many brands are capable of making a quality coat. But in fact, very few people can boast of the centuries-old traditions observed when sewing it. For example, such as Crombie - a British brand that produces such high quality coats that their name has become synonymous with "overcoat" in the UK. But you will have to fork out for their creation, and not a little.
Gray check coat from Crombie
Crombie swamp coat
Black coat from Crombie
Also, there are a couple more brands. They are not guardians of centuries-old treasures, but they do their job quite well, namely: Reiss, Charles Tyrwhitt, Suitsupply, Thomas Pink, Jaeger and Marks & Spencer.
Navy Italian wool cashmere Classic fit overcoat
Brown double breasted coat
Charcoal Italian wool cashmere Slim fit-overcoat
Cooper Coat
Italian Fabric Wool Rich Coat with Cashmere
Maidan Coat
Men's coat to order
An experienced tailor can create a completely unique coat for you. No, it won't be much cheaper than buying from Crombie, but you're guaranteed to get quality clothing that's tailored to you and ready to last for years to come. By the way, you can sew a classic suit, vest or coat from our partners Arthur Philips.
SEWING SUITS AND COATS FROM ARTHUR PHILIPS
FIND OUT MORE
Cutting a custom-made men's coat
How to Wear a Men's Coat
As you probably already understood, a men's coat is indispensable as outerwear in the cold season. And although it covers half of your body, this does not mean that you should not choose clothes to match it. It is also true that not every coat is worth wearing outside.
Daily style
Formal style
