When and where did the discovery of silk take place? Researchers unanimously say - in China. It was here that fragments of silk were found in burials. In China, they mastered the art of silk ornamentation, producing extraordinary fabric with colored patterns. Silk fabrics were already diverse back then. Among them were brocade, dense one-color patterned silk, and the finest silk gauze. The ornaments reflected ideas about life, nature and happiness.
History of silk
Everything ingenious is born by chance. Empress Hsai Ling Shi was relaxing in the shade of a mulberry tree over a cup of tea when a silkworm cocoon suddenly fell into the hot tea. The woman took it in her hands and began to unwind the thin thread. And then she came up with the idea that this thread could be used to produce fabric.
The most delicate material had a fabulous price, and was initially produced by craftsmen only in the palace and only for the imperial family. The oldest silkworm cocoon was found during excavations in Shanxi province, dating back to approximately 2000 BC.
The sericulture season lasts 6 months while the mulberry trees produce leaves for food.
The Chinese jealously guarded the secret of silk production. The secret had state status. Silk was sold at a high price. The Great Silk Road proudly bears the name of the main product of that time - silk.
The caravan road was the main transcontinental road along which silk was exported from China. In addition to fabric, caravans also brought Chinese porcelain, tea, rice, spices, and cosmetics. And gold, silver, cotton, wool, horses, and fruits were imported back to China.
Silk was worth its weight in gold in Europe; only very rich people could afford it. But the high cost did not reduce consumer demand; the fabric was in great demand.
Moreover, insects do not live in clothes made of silk, of which there were plenty in the Middle Ages due to poor hygiene.
Silk has a most valuable feature: clothing made from this material has healing antibactericidal properties. Upon contact with the skin, cell regeneration increases and skin diseases are cured.
The Chinese carefully kept the secret. But around the 5th century, information nevertheless leaked out along with the smuggling of silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds outside the Middle Kingdom. It flowed initially to India, and later to Byzantium and other European countries.
Description of production
Currently, silk is produced in many countries. The technology of modern fabric production is practically no different from the original one, although some of the processes are automated. The highest quality silk is still obtained in China.
The production technology is long and painstaking and requires constant attention.
The thread itself is obtained from the cocoon of a silkworm. The complete life cycle of egg-larva-pupa of a butterfly takes on average 60 days. Store eggs (greens) during the dormant period at a temperature of +2, +30. Eggs can remain viable for 2 years.
To stimulate the revival of the greens, gradually increase the temperature in the incubator to 20-250. Silkworm worms are born on days 7-12, they are very small, up to 2 mm. For the next 30 days, the worms eat constantly and a lot, eating 20 times their weight in leaves. Entire mulberry plantations are grown for voracious caterpillars. An adult caterpillar grows up to 5-7 cm, molting several times and shedding its old skin. The size of the caterpillar depends on the species and conditions of detention.
Silkworm caterpillar
Silkworm farms are set up in such a way that the caterpillars live on special mesh trays on which leaves are laid out for feeding. It is important to monitor the temperature and humidity in the room. Silkworms are sensitive to drafts, foreign odors and noise.
After 30 days, cocoon boxes are placed on a tray, on which it is convenient to curl the cocoons. Suitable materials for a cocoon are straw, twigs and plant branches. On a branch, an adult caterpillar begins to curl a cocoon. To do this, she pulls out a viscous substance from a special papilla on her lower lip, which instantly hardens into a thread in the air.
One caterpillar forms a thread up to 1000 m long.
The entire cocoonization process takes 2-3 days. At the next stage, after the formation of the cocoon is completed, the cocoons are calibrated and selected. The best specimens are used for procreation; after 12-15 days, a silkworm butterfly will emerge. Once upon a time, several thousand years ago, these butterflies flew.
Currently, in the process of selection, butterflies will be born blind and cannot fly, their only purpose is to mate with a male, lay eggs (green) and die.
One female lays up to 500 eggs. All other cocoons are put into production. Failed butterflies are destroyed by treating them with hot steam. The cocoons are poured with boiling water to free them from the sticky substance, sericin. Then the cocoon is carefully unwound on special reels, winding it onto a bobbin. A thicker thread is formed by joining together from 5-8 fibers for thin fabric and up to 20 fibers for thicker ones.
Finished skeins of thread, called raw silk, are sent to workshops for dyeing, then to weaving looms.
Interesting statistics: to sew a women's silk dress you will need approximately 1000 cocoons. To raise 1000 caterpillars you will need about 60 kg of mulberry leaves (2-3 trees).
Eggs (grens) are of particular value; they come in different breeds, depending on the selection: Chinese, Japanese, European, Asian, Persian, Cypriot.
INTERESTING
To obtain 100 g of raw silk, it is necessary to process 1 kg of cocoons.
- Skeins of raw silk are soaked in warm soapy water, then straightened and dried. After drying, the skeins are unwound on machines, controlling the uniformity and thickness of the threads. The carding process allows you to create long-fiber and short-fiber tow. The properties and quality of the yarn depend on the length of the fiber.
- When threads are wound onto bobbins, torsion occurs. The result obtained is secured by treating the twisted threads with steam. The packaged bobbins are sent to weaving factories.
Fabric production
Silk fabrics are produced using various types of thread weave: plain, twill, crepe, jacquard...
Finished fabrics undergo special processing that removes residual organic matter and gives the fabrics special properties.
Cons of silk fabric
There are also disadvantages:
- Price. Natural silk has a high cost.
- Exposure to ultraviolet radiation. Prolonged exposure to sunlight damages the fabric. Therefore, you should not purchase beach sets made of natural silk.
- Liquid stains. When drops of water, sweat, or rain get in contact with the surface of silk fabric, stains remain.
Be careful when ironing. Silk does not like hot exposure. With prolonged exposure to high temperatures, the fabric loses its elasticity and becomes brittle.
Where is silk used?
- Cloth. The main use of natural silk is clothing. The favorable properties of the fabric, rich appearance and pleasant tactile sensations are the ideal combination for creating fashionable, comfortable clothing. Women's, children's, men's clothing - dresses, suits, shirts; various accessories - scarves, scarves, ties, decor.
For silk textiles, nothing is impossible in the fashion industry.
- Home textiles. Silk fabrics drape well and have a presentable appearance. Therefore, it is used to decorate home interiors. Silk curtains, bedspreads, bed linen. Thick types of silk are used to make furniture covers and to drape walls.
Silk bed linen
- Medicine. Silk threads are used as surgical suture material. Ideal material for suturing postoperative sutures. The bactericidal thread does not dissolve, but the amino acid it contains accelerates cell regeneration and disinfects the wound.
Silk thread in medicine
Crepe
The name of the material is translated from French as “wavy”, “rough”. When making crepe, the threads are twisted left and right, alternating in a certain way.
This fabric is characterized by an uneven surface. The texture is somewhat similar to sand.
The crepe drapes perfectly, lays down in beautiful waves, and does not wrinkle. Things made from it last a very long time.
In addition to silk crepe, it can be made of cotton, wool blend, or synthetic. Nowadays it is used mainly for women's dresses.
Types of natural silk
Modern production technologies make it possible to produce an unimaginable number of types of natural silk fabric, differing in the quality of raw materials, the type of weaving of threads in the fabric, the method of processing and dyeing, and price.
But initially, silk thread from mulberry fiber can be obtained in only two varieties:
- Mulberry is the highest quality expensive variety of silk produced on silkworm farms. Selection and ideal maintenance conditions make it possible to obtain a thin, even thread.
- Tussah is a variety of silk obtained from wild caterpillars that live in the natural conditions of mulberry gardens. The thread is not so smooth and thin, but the main characteristics are preserved
Tussah silk is obtained from yarn that is woven from wild silkworm silk.
Crepe georgette
Silk fabric made using crepe weaving. The front surface of crepe georgette is shiny and rough.
Important! The difference between crepe georgette and other types of crepe is the direction of weaving. During production, the warp and weft threads are twisted in different directions. This makes it dense, but light and elastic.
During the era of balls, fashionable women's toilets were made from crepe georgette. Now this fabric is not so popular. It is used to make draped curtains, as well as some models of skirts, blouses and scarves.
The most common types of silk fabrics
Atlas
Literally translated from Arabic as “smooth”. A special type of satin weave was invented in China - the warp overlaps five or more horizontal weft threads. As a result of this weaving, the fabric is smooth, shiny on one side and matte, rough on the other.
Satin is used when sewing wedding dresses, evening dresses, tuxedos, scarves, ties, used for finishing shoes, pointe shoes, and also sews bed linen. Drapes well. There are varieties of satin: moire, patterned, smooth, heavy, etc.
Natural silk satin is a premium fabric, expensive, dense, durable, but at the same time delicate, requiring delicate handling
Charmeuse
Silk is similar to satin: the same glossy front surface and matte back surface. But charmeuse is thinner than satin and more delicate. Beautiful to wear, the fabric literally flows over the body, taking on the shape of the figure.
Silk Charmeuse
Silk-satin
Dense glossy fabric is obtained from a combination of cotton sateen and silk. The fabric is cheaper than silk and more durable. Bed linen and shirts are made from silk satin.
The popularity of silk satin material is due to its beautiful and presentable appearance.
Chiffon
Very thin, delicate, translucent plain weave fabric. It may have a crepe twist, which affects the density and strength of the material. Ideal for sewing light summer dresses, sundresses, blouses, scarves.
Varieties of chiffon include mother-of-pearl chiffon, satin chiffon, crepe chiffon, and jacquard chiffon.
Pearl Chiffon Fabric
Gas
Transparent lightweight fabric with a special interweaving of threads - two warp threads intersect with one horizontal weft thread. The weak weaving allows the material to be so airy.
Varieties of gas depending on appearance, methods of weaving threads: rice, marabou, crystal, illusion.
Silk GAS is used when sewing ball gowns, in decorative trimming of wedding and evening dresses
Crepe
A thin, dense silk fabric made from high-twist warp threads and loosely twisted weft threads. Therefore, it has a slightly textured appearance.
Types of crepe de Chine: crepe chiffon (transparent airy fabric), crepe satin (smooth surface), crepe georgette (corrugated shiny fabric), crepe de chine.
Dress and costume type of material.
Fabric crepe silk plain
Organza
Translucent, airy, moderately rigid material made from tightly twisted silk threads. It can be matte or with an iridescent effect, printed or plain-dyed. Crinkled organza is produced by pressing. Used for sewing concert dresses, decorative ornaments - flowers, bows.
Also used as curtain textiles to decorate windows.
Silk organza
Muslin
Translated from French. Mousseline - muslin. The finest transparent plain weave fabric made from tightly twisted silk threads.
Ball dresses, peignoirs, scarves, and scarves are sewn from muslin.
Silk muslin
Silk veil
The French word Voile means haze, curtain. Smooth translucent silk fabric. The veil can be printed, dyed, embroidered, or lace. Used as decoration for women's hats and hairstyles.
Unlike organza, it has a soft structure.
Light, weightless material is used as decoration for hats and women's hairstyles. A wedding veil made from a silk veil looks gorgeous.
Silk veil
Taffeta
The Persian word Taffeta means woven, twisted. A shiny, fine plain weave fabric made from very tightly twisted silk and cotton threads. Therefore, taffeta has a dense, rigid structure, wrinkles with brittle folds, and retains its shape well.
Used for sewing outerwear, evening dresses, petticoats, curtains.
Taffeta can be plain, printed, tapestry, crinkled, smooth
Toile
High density plain weave fabric. It has a slight shine and holds its shape well. Used as a lining when sewing ties and dresses.
Silk Toile
Chesucha (wild silk)
An amazing material with a heterogeneous texture, due to the fact that the threads have different thicknesses. Yarn obtained from wild silkworms - tussah - is used in production. The fabric is durable, soft, drapes well, but requires delicate care. Used for sewing curtains and clothes.
Chesuch's wild silk
Foulard
Thin, elegant material. Light shawls, scarves, and stoles are sewn from foulard. It is popular among batik masters; the colors adhere perfectly to the fabric.
Silk foulard
DuPont
The fabric is very dense, stiff, with a slight gloss. Indian DuPont is the most popular material. Used for sewing curtains, bed linen, evening wear.
Silk DuPont
Silk epontage (ponge)
Translated from French, eponge means sponge. Plain weave fabric with a rough surface, plain or with a geometric pattern - checks, stripes, melange. They sew women's and children's dresses.
Silk pongee fabric
Brocade
Initially, brocade was woven only from thick silk threads. The canvas is heavy with a rich pattern, decorated with gold and silver. Currently, gold and silver have been replaced by lurex thread. Rich fabric is used for expensive, presentable outfits.
Previously, it was used to sew for royalty, clergy and the nobility.
Silk brocade
Silk velvet
The fabric with soft pile on the front side and a silk base was produced in Russia back in the 18th century.
Silk velvet
Twill
Translated from French. Serge – silk. It is woven from twisted threads diagonally, by shifting each subsequent row by 2 or more threads. Used when sewing special items. clothing, lining, technical.
The fabric is thin and strong.
Excelsior
A thin, translucent plain-weave silk woven from untwisted threads. It has a light pearlescent sheen, incredibly soft and weightless. Used in decorative arts.
Excelsior looks very beautiful with painting on shawls, stoles, and scarves. The colors appear on the material very brightly, creating luxurious transitions.
Silk Excelsior
Silk cambric
Durable thin fabric of plain weave threads. The silk content in the material is lower. Silk cambric fabric is cheaper than pure silk and is easier to work with.
Silk cambric
Viscose
Synthetic fibers are added to natural silk threads. Modern technologies make it possible to obtain viscose silk that retains the quality characteristics of natural material.
Viscose silk
Atlas
Satin is a shiny and dense silk fabric. The surface of the satin is usually smooth, but the material can also be patterned. The satin has a characteristic shine, the front side resembles gloss. This effect is achieved using a special production technology.
The type of weaving of this fabric, like raw silk itself, was invented in China. Together with the technique of producing material from silkworm cocoons, this knowledge came first to Central Asia and then to Europe, where the material became widespread.
How to distinguish natural silk from fake
An experienced buyer can easily distinguish natural silk fabric from artificial one. For beginners, there are several ways to accurately identify real silk fabric:
- Natural silk material has a natural, subdued shine. Under different lighting, it changes shade and shimmers. Artificial silk has a dull shine and does not change shade.
- Upon contact with the body, natural silk instantly acquires body temperature.
- Natural silk has a pleasant tactile sensation. It is soft, gentle, and floats easily in your hands, as if flowing down. Artificial is colder and harsher.
- Absorbs water well.
- When crumpled, the material gradually straightens out, leaving no creases.
A way to determine the authenticity of natural silk
Separate a few threads from the material and set them on fire.
- Natural silk fiber burns slowly, without soot and without forming a molten ball at the end. The ash from combustion easily scatters. At the same time, the smell of burnt wool is felt.
- The synthetic material burns quickly, with soot, the thread melts to form a soft dark ball at the end of the thread, which quickly hardens when exposed to air. Smells like melted plastic.
- Viscose burns quickly with a papery smell, leaving behind crumbly ash. Viscose, like paper, is made from a single fiber – cellulose.
Silk-Satin
Satin comes from the word "zaytuni" - the Arabic name for Quanzhou Harbor in China, the birthplace of this fabric. Silk-satin has a smooth, dense surface, which is characterized by a beautiful shine. Bed linen, men's shirts, and lining are made from it.
Silk-satin is made from two types of material - 100% cotton sateen and pure silk. The weave density of this fabric is 170–220 threads per 1 square meter. cm.
Important! Linen made from silk-satin is very strong and durable. It can withstand over 200 washes, does not fray, and is cheaper than silk.
Caring for silk products
In order for a product to serve for a long time without losing its qualities, it is necessary to follow certain rules for caring for the product. The product labeling indicates washing methods, ironing, washing machine and dry cleaning.
But the general rules for caring for a product made of natural silk fabric are as follows:
Use hand wash, do not rub or twist the product.
- in the washing machine only in the gentle wash mode;
- the water temperature for washing and rinsing is not higher than 350. Under the influence of high temperatures, the protein component of the thread is destroyed;
- Use detergents only for delicate fabrics. It is better to avoid fabric softeners;
- when rinsing, add table vinegar to reduce the alkaline environment, 100 grams of 9% vinegar per 10 liters of water;
- gentle spin: do not twist the product and do not use the washing machine drum for spinning;
- When drying, avoid exposure to sunlight. Dry flat;
- Iron from the wrong side carefully with an iron at a temperature not exceeding 400.
Protect delicate silk items from contact with deodorants, perfumes, hairsprays and other chemicals.
Despite the high cost, clothes made from natural silk material are very popular and prestigious.
The silkworm is as useful an insect for humans as a bee. Mulberry production has always been a profitable investment.
