How to make a mannequin with your own hands? Tailor's mannequin

Preparatory stage

Before you start working, decide on the size of the mannequin. If most of the manufactured items belong to the children's category, then it is better to focus on small options. To create such a texture of the human body, the participation of a child of the appropriate age will be necessary.

It’s easier to make standard mannequins with your own hands, but this also requires the participation of one assistant. The height of the structure depends on the height of the seamstress. On sale there are mainly devices of average sizes, with a height from 146 to 179 centimeters.

Plaster mannequin: materials for manufacturing

Before you think about how to make a mannequin with your own hands, you need to decide for what purpose the human model is being created. If it is needed for tailoring clothes for an individual client, then such a device should repeat all the subtleties and features of his figure. In such cases, it is better to give preference to gypsum products.

If the design should only figuratively follow the curves of the human body, it can be made from ordinary tape and food foil. To imagine what both processes look like, we will look at both methods of making mannequins with our own hands.

Making a model of a specific person: necessary materials

To create an accurate model of a person’s figure will require a lot of effort and patience, but the result will justify all these sacrifices. During the work the following materials and devices will be used:

• roll of cling film;
• scotch;
• gypsum mixture;
• polyurethane foam (about 2 cylinders);
• sandpaper;
• paraffin;
• putty;
• medical bandages;
• coat hanger;
• padding polyester or batting.

A laser level is useful for drawing the lines of the chest, waist and hips on the model. But if such a device is not available, you can make a tailor’s mannequin without it.

Instructions for creating mass

Soak the toilet in water. Minimum for 3 hours. To reduce the time, the container can be placed on low heat.

Stir occasionally.

There are several ways to dry the resulting slurry to the desired state. First: pour the contents of the pan into a colander and, stirring, wait until the mass reaches the desired state.

Second: strain the paper through cheesecloth while squeezing it.

In any case, you will have to squeeze it out, otherwise even the strained mass will be too liquid. Grind the resulting lumps. First with your hands.

Then, with a blender.

If too dry, add some liquid. Dry material will break the unit. Add glue in the required amount so that the lump resembles plasticine.

After fastening the molded elements, the workpiece is covered with white acrylic. The sculpture needs to dry thoroughly. Only after this can it be painted with watercolors or gouache.

Worth knowing! To ensure that the coating lasts a long time and does not lose color, the product is treated with a fixing nail polish. You'll need a lot of it, but it's worth it.

If you do not allow the figurine to dry completely before decorating with paints and other materials, it may shrink and lose its shape.

Creating the base of the mannequin

If all the necessary materials have been purchased and you have enough free time, then you can start working. To begin with, the assistant (whose model will be created) should change into clothes that he won’t mind getting dirty.

Further work is performed in the following sequence:

1. The human body must be carefully covered with cling film. In this case, it is very important not to squeeze the figure and not to tighten the polyethylene too much. If the film is not at hand, you can wrap the figure with large bags cut lengthwise.
2. Secure the edges of the film to the figure using tape.
3. Next, the entire body covered with rolled material must be covered with tape. This must be done as carefully as possible so that the material does not squeeze all the natural convexities of the figure. It is more convenient to use small tapes of adhesive tape, no more than 20 cm long. They need to be glued to the body with a slight overlap. It is better to paste over small and textured bulges in 5 cm pieces.

This completes the preparatory stage of creating a tailor's mannequin. Here you can rest a little and start mixing the gypsum mixture. Next, perform the following steps:

1. Medical plaster bandages or cut gauze need to be moistened in the prepared solution and begin to apply stripes to the figure. First of all, the tapes are applied starting from the back, over the shoulder and under the chest.
2. In the area of ​​the shoulder blades, we place the material crosswise. This is necessary so that wet bandages do not slip on a slippery base.
3. Gradually, the entire surface of the body is covered with plaster overlays up to the hips. To ensure that the mannequin form is strong enough, you need to apply at least three layers of bandage. It will be physically very difficult to withstand a larger amount.

At this point, making a mold for creating mannequins with your own hands can be considered complete.

All that remains is to wait until the gypsum solution hardens. At this time, it is worth making as little movements as possible so that the frame does not deform.

How to make a mannequin at home: filling the mold

After the solution has hardened sufficiently, the resulting form must be removed from the person. Before this, control stripes need to be drawn on the surface of the plaster figure, which will serve as a guide when folding the two parts.

Starting from the axillary region, the plaster cast is cut on both sides. This is done with a sharp knife so as not to injure the person inside.

At this stage, it’s no longer difficult to figure out how to make a mannequin with your own hands, because the mold for filling with foam is already ready. Next you need to do the following:

1. To smooth out all the unevenness of the plaster cast, its inner surface must be coated with putty.
2. After the mixture hardens, a layer of paraffin is applied on top. A pair of ordinary candles is suitable for these purposes.
3. Now the empty space of the first and second halves is filled with polyurethane foam. It's best to do this in layers. This way the composition will harden much faster.
4. You need to place a hanger in one of the molds. It will give the layout additional strength.
5. Finally, a final layer of foam is applied to one of the halves, after which both parts are pressed tightly against each other. For reliability, it is better to secure them tightly with tape and leave them until the foam dries completely.

After the composition has hardened, the tape is cut off and the plaster molds can be easily removed from the finished mold.

Non-standard solutions

Papier-mâché is used to create not only static objects. Articulated toys made from a hardened mass are used in children's theaters and are as popular as real objects of art. A beautifully decorated original craft with moving elements costs a lot of money and is prized among collectors.

The creation process has several nuances:

• Each part is prepared separately
• most often, to prepare elements, plaster molds are used, which you can make yourself or purchase
• the product has a common frame to which parts of the body are attached
• natural materials are used to create a complete image (fabric, artificial or natural hair, beads, etc.).

This is a very painstaking and difficult task, but with a confident approach and desire everything will work out.

Finishing work

So we figured out how to make a mannequin of a person that will most accurately reflect all the features of his figure. However, the frozen foam form will be difficult to use as a working material, so now you need to start finishing.

If there is paraffin left on the walls of the model, it must be removed. This is best done with a sharp knife.

Since it is difficult to create a smooth surface using polyurethane foam, the figure must be sanded with fine-grained sandpaper. At the same time, you cannot press too hard. It is enough just to remove large lumps.

Next, the surface of the figure must be treated with gypsum putty. For a completely smooth mannequin, two thin layers are enough. This allows you to smooth out small pits and protect the foam from mechanical damage.

Now you need to make a sewing mannequin. No matter how beautiful the white and smooth layout may look, it is quite inconvenient to work with, since it is impossible to stick needles into it. To eliminate this drawback, you need to use thin padding polyester or batting. They need to cover the entire surface of the figure.

The mannequin is now ready for use. The cost of materials for its production is approximately 1000 rubles, which is 5 times less than the price of the finished model.

Key Features

• If there are no plaster blanks for papier-mâché to harden, each element is sculpted by hand, including facial features and details of the limbs and torso.
• You need to first create a drawn plan of the body and patterns for the outfit, drawn in all possible projections.
• Be prepared for the fact that you will not see the end result soon.

If you have no experience, it is recommended to start with an easier master class. This way you will become fully familiar with the technique. Then you can proceed to more complex projects.

If your goal is a hinged version, make it partly from the frozen mass, and the rest from a stuffed bag of fabric. For example, the head, hands and feet are hard, and the rest is soft. Most of the “actors” are made minimally - only the head.

Materials for making a papier-mâché mannequin

If you are not ready to spend a lot of time using the previous method, then you can make simpler mannequins with your own hands. Of course, in this case it will not be possible to convey the smallest curves of a person’s figure, but it is quite possible to work with this option.

To work you will need:

• 4 rolls of tape;
• unnecessary T-shirt;
• scissors;
• padding polyester or foam rubber.

During the work, you will also need an assistant, since it will be very difficult to do the work yourself.

Basic principles and methods of art

Having learned the basics of a handmade technique that is new to you, you will quickly appreciate its ease and convenience. Having been captured by a trend that attracts with its simplicity, with the help of a special mass, you will begin to create strong but elegant crafts. The skill is based on the use of paper of varying degrees of density and additional substances that provoke or enhance adhesion. Everything needed to create blanks is easily accessible and inexpensive, which significantly expands the capabilities of a beginner or an experienced creator.

Layout making process

Starting to create a layout in this option is similar to the previous method. You should also wrap cling film over the old T-shirt and secure it with tape. Layer by layer, you need to carefully cover the entire surface of the film and use up a full 4 rolls of adhesive tape. In the chest area you need to use short pieces of tape.

When the tape cocoon is completely formed, you need to mark the middle of the back. It is noted along the cervical vertebrae. For this purpose it is more convenient to use a plumb line. You also immediately need to draw transverse lines that will indicate how to properly glue the base for the mannequin.

You need to cut the resulting shape along the drawn line. The bottom edge of the layout is straightened using scissors. The resulting form should stand on its own on the table. The layout is ready. Now you can start filling and finishing it.

Final stages

Before making a mannequin from papier-mâché, we considered the option of filling it with foam. In this case, it should not be used, since the adhesive tape shell is inferior in strength to gypsum. This is a lightweight option, and for filling it it is better to use foam rubber or padding polyester filler.

Let's consider further actions:

1. The cut on the back needs to be glued. After this, the layout needs to be covered again with several layers of tape.
2. The bottom of the figure should be placed on thick cardboard and outlined. This will create the bottom of the mannequin, which can be glued after it is filled.
3. The selected filler must be carefully compacted inside the shell. Now the holes in the arms, neck and hips can be sealed.

The papier-mâché technique is used to smooth the surface of the figure. To do this, roll paper needs to be moistened with water, and when it gets wet, replace the water with PVA glue. In this state, the paper must be placed on a mannequin. When all the polyethylene is covered, the product is left to dry for 48 hours.

Frame creation: master class

In addition to paper and paste, you will need the following materials and tools:

• strong wire (preferably steel)
• cotton wool or padding polyester for molding the body, you can use tape instead
• fine sandpaper
• stationery knife
• tools for modeling (stacks for plasticine and even ordinary toothpicks are suitable)
• acrylic paints and brushes
• varnish
• fabric and accessories for clothing
• satin hair ribbon
• if the product must stand, you can take a piece of foam for the stand

For example, let's take a doll in the image of Charlie Chaplin. We twist the wire frame. We install the “skeleton” on the stand.

We form the torso and head from cotton wool or padding polyester. We used wide tape for this. The result is something like this.

We glue the workpiece. You need to make at least 5 layers, drying each one. We work with sandpaper.

We sculpt details from a mass of papier-mâché: a suit, facial features. Let's dry it. We sand with sandpaper.

Prime with white acrylic paint. After the workpiece has dried, paint it. It is better to paint small details with thin brushes. This way the work will look neat.

For additional paint durability, it can be varnished.

Making a stand for a mannequin

When the human model is ready, it's time to think about how to make a stand for the mannequin. First, you need to make a cross from wooden blocks. To do this, a hole is cut in each bar half the thickness of the second bar. This will allow you to evenly fasten the 2 elements together.

Next, a horizontal stick is attached to them, on which the height of the layout will depend. It can be screwed to the cross-shaped base using self-tapping screws. Metal or wooden corners can also be used here. The type of fastener is not particularly important, the main thing is that the stand is stable enough.

The layout itself is placed on the free edge of the stick. In the case of polyurethane foam, you do not need to make special holes, but in cardboard you need to provide one in advance.

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How to make a typical tailor's mannequin from paper. Very detailed master class - Handicraft - My piggy bank https://rukodelie.moya-kopilochka.ru/kak-sdelat-tipovoy-portnovskiy-maneken-iz-bumagi-ochen-podrobnyiy-master-klass/

We have already written about how to make a tailor's mannequin using tape. Today we bring to your attention a new master class on this topic.

I invite all sewing lovers to design a mannequin... in the most unusual way! No, we will not cover ourselves with tape, but will remember school and labor lessons, when we worked with paper, assembling a full-fledged mannequin from it! There is no problem with paper in this country, so let's go!

First of all, I note that this is a typical mannequin. The pattern can be increased and decreased, but the standard proportions, as on a purchased mannequin, are taken as a basis. If you really want, you can build one for yourself out of paper with a non-standard shape. The option of wrapping myself in tape was sorely unsuitable for me, as I was suffocating and felt very uncomfortable, and then I came across my daughter, who was cutting something out of paper, and it dawned on me!

What do we need?

- pattern (given below); - paper for printing; - the most ordinary Whatman paper (about 8 sheets); — wide adhesive tape (I used 2 rolls); - scissors; - a little padding polyester; - thick cardboard (you can “tear apart” an old box of some equipment, I took it from a plasma); - Super glue.

Is it profitable?

Yes, it’s profitable, because judge for yourself, it took us about 200 rubles for everything for the mannequin, and if you buy a good mannequin, it’ll cost about 5,000 rubles, and we’ll do no worse!

The working process

First you need to prepare a pattern. I give it in a smaller version. Just enlarge it to the size you need or buy one ready to print from me:

And here is the pattern itself:

Here are all the sheets you need. My pattern in the store also includes a stand pattern - it's also made from cardboard! I think it's time to start making. If in doubt, you can first make a smaller copy - let it be your training mannequin!

Let's start gluing, cutting, shredding!

At the first stage, I printed out all the patterns in the full-size size I needed according to my typical figure and glued the parts onto whatman paper:

Next, you need to very carefully cut out all the details with darts! Attention - what is painted over in gray is not cut out!

Next, we need to reinforce all the parts that are marked with cardboard. You probably have boxes from household appliances at home - they are perfect for these purposes! To prevent the paper from peeling off and the corners from bending, I placed books on top as a press; all that was left was to watch the movie and wait for it to dry!

I think there are those girls who are fine with a mannequin without a stand, but I need a stand! Yes, and in general, even if we are doing it without it now, we need to provide for the possibility of inserting a pin. By the way, it can be made either from a roll of cardboard, or, as I did, take a pipe from a vacuum cleaner. The vacuum cleaner has sunk into oblivion after breaking, but the pipe came in handy. It also extends, so now I can adjust the height!

So, we make our own roll or select a suitable unit, and begin to mark on the templates our size of circles for the pin, where there are corresponding marks (I have black circles), and then cut them out. My husband helped me, wielding a paper knife like a pirate:

Now is the time to glue parts 14A and 14B together. Be sure to make sure the center circles line up with each other. After gluing, the best thing is to put them under a press so that everything “grabs” perfectly!

And this is what all our cardboard circles look like: let’s set them out to dry!

Well, now the most interesting part!

Neck!

Let's start with the neck! To do this, take part No. 8 and glue it in the place indicated on the pattern:

We insert part No. 9 into the middle and secure everything well with tape!

Cut the “rays” on parts 6A and 6B, then bend along the dotted line. At the next stage, glue parts 7A and 7B inside, respectively, to the letters! Make sure they stick evenly so that they don’t stick out later on the finished mannequin!

Next, connect parts 1A and 1B using tape. Pay attention to the place of the neck, there you need to be extremely careful when creating an angle; the corners in these places lie side by side, and not overlapping:

Also use tape to connect all the darts - this is very important!

In the same way we connect parts 2A and 2B! We leave the neckline untouched for now. I mixed it up a little, as I did it at night, and didn’t stick it on the gray side, but it’s not scary at all, since in the end there will still be a cover on the mannequin!

Now the edges of the neck are also glued together not overlapping, but so that they create an angle and touch each other evenly. How the neck “sits” in this place later depends on this. We also carefully tape all the darts together with tape. By the way, I duplicated the layer of tape on the reverse side:

Well, let's move on? Why not? Now our task is to form the upper torso. To do this, we glue 1A, 2A with, respectively, 2A, 2B along the shoulder seams, including the neck area. Then I recommend taping the edges of the arms one more time, and then you can fasten everything securely on the sides:

Now we pick up a tube of superglue - it’s better that it’s good and grabs right away. We apply it to the “petals” 6A and 6B, on the parts that serve to support the armhole. Insert 6A into the right armhole and 6B into the left armhole! Make sure that the triangular marks that I put on the pattern line up, otherwise the mannequin will turn out a little “non-standard”

Take padding polyester or foam rubber - you can even take soft rags - do not stuff the upper part of the mannequin that we just sculpted too tightly! Now let’s super-check the level of stuffing with the help of long tapes; they should fit together easily! Personally, I tore apart an old pillow - this is the filling inside it - no regrets

At the next stage, we take part 11A (as you remember, it is reinforced with cardboard), align the center, front and back, then glue it with tape and fix it with “Long antennae”, with which we checked the level of fullness!

I strongly recommend that after gluing the bottom, you very carefully fill the top of the mannequin to a good density, the main thing is not to overdo it. When you see that the shape is holding well, stop immediately.

Waist

The next stage is the waist, and we are slowly but surely moving towards our goal! Glue part 3A to 3B, bend all the “antennae” inward:

Take part 12A and glue it along the bottom edge of the resulting element, aligning, as we are already used to, the front, !

I recommend gluing a piece of thick cardboard inside so that there is less load on the part when stuffing it, here’s how I did it:

We fill it a little with foam rubber / padding polyester (whatever you have). We take a piece of 11B, glue it onto the top of 3A+3B, fix it well with tendrils and tape, and then stuff it so that the shape holds well!

Chest + waist

It's time, friends, to combine the 2 blanks that we have created. To do this, coat part 11B well with glue and connect the 2 parts, aligning the front, back and center!

Hips

Well, what would a lady be without gorgeous hips? Jennifer Lopez immediately comes to mind, so let's quickly do... butt!

Let's start by gluing parts 5A and 5B together front and back, all this won't take even a minute:

We fix the result using the base (14A + 14B), attach it to the bottom, and attach our amplifiers to the sides (15 and 16 - they need to be shortened a little, if necessary, cut off from the bottom):

Important note: if you plan to make a stand, then at the same step you should insert a pipe inside, securing it (not the main pipe, but the one that will serve as a clamp for the main one).

Now we stuff our butt and close it with a “lid”, which will serve as part 13B!

Well, let's take on the remaining parts 4A and 4B! Glue them together front and back, securing them well with tape! Don't forget about darts!

Now, as with other parts, we put a “lid” on top - this is 12V for us, and 12A on the bottom - like this. Of course, you should also stuff the insides with padding polyester so that they keep their shape well (well, we are already used to doing this):

Voila! We connect parts 4A+4B with 5A+5B! We are at the final stage. Here you have to make sure that the center is exactly in the center:

And now we attach the remaining equally important part, and we see our almost finished mannequin:

Oh, is something missing? Yes, those are breasts! We take the remaining parts of the chest - they are symmetrical, and carefully glue all the darts together. The process is painstaking:

Let's attach it. For convenience, I painted on the pattern in gray the place where it is molded, so there will be no problems:

As you can see, we only have 1 piece left, and that is our neck. We have no choice but to attach it to its rightful place:

Well, that's all, girls and guys (if there are any):