Basic terms
There are two types of threads used in weaving:
- Some of them are directed along the canvas, are supporting and are called the base. These threads undergo great stretching, bend repeatedly, and are subject to noticeable pressure from the working parts of the machine. Therefore, especially strong threads from the best fibers that have been twisted are always used as the base. Very often, the threads that are laid in the base are additionally strengthened with sizing (adhesive solutions).
- The weft threads are oriented perpendicular to the warp. They bear less load. Consequently, fewer demands are placed on the weft threads.
The weft threads are pulled through the warp threads. This is the essence of weaving technology.
Types of fabric weave
Along the width and length of the entire canvas, the main pattern is constantly repeated. The unit of pattern that is reproduced in the process of obtaining fabric is called rapport. Simply put, this is a rectangular or square fragment of a pattern created from a strictly defined number of longitudinal warp and transverse threads, called weft. Rapport is a characteristic of the overall fabric pattern. It is expressed quantitatively as a fraction, the upper part of which indicates how many warp threads in a row are contained in the repeat, and the lower part indicates the total indicator of adjacent weft threads placed between the intersection of threads.
Basic properties
Features of the technology for obtaining rep fabric determined the following characteristics of this textile:
- high density, strength and wear resistance;
- hygroscopicity and “breathing” properties;
- resistance to deformation;
- low creasing and easy to wash.
Natural rep fabric is very comfortable to wear and at the same time practical. It is important that it does not stretch and is well suited for tight-fitting styles . In addition, the longitudinal scars of the duck rap well stretch the silhouette and give a slim figure. At the same time, the density of this material allows you to create three-dimensional structures and stable folds.
Simple circuits
The very first fabrics were obtained without further ado. Simple schemes for creating woven materials, known since ancient times, are still popular today. New types of raw materials appear, fashion requirements change, and unforgotten, historically first methods of weaving still remain in demand.
Linen look
In a huge number of woven materials, the threads are woven in a linen type. This is apparently the historically first scheme for creating paintings, which for this reason received the name of the same name.
Plain weave
When making plain weaves, one warp thread intersects each weft thread through one overlap. You get beautiful little chess patterns.
- Fabrics made from threads of the same or similar thickness have a uniform surface on both sides.
- If the threads are very crowded, the fabric looks grainy. This effect is called crepe.
- If the warp threads are much thicker than the weft threads, then the surface cannot be uniform. There will be a noticeable scar on one side.
Twill look
Very similar to plain twill weave pattern. It has two special features:
- The first feature is that the rapport contains at least three threads.
- The second difference is the presence of a shift by one thread when moving to each next repeat.
As a result, a diagonal scar is formed on the surface. The ratio of the thickness of the longitudinal and transverse threads determines the appearance of the fabric surface, in particular the angle of inclination of the diagonal hem.
Twill weave
Satin and satin types
This type is characterized by a shift of the elongated overlap in each subsequent row by at least two positions. The rapport contains 5 or more threads.
- If the elongated overlaps of the base predominate, the result is an atlas.
- When weft threads predominate, the fabric is called satin.
Extensions on the front surface create a smooth, shiny appearance.
Application area
Reps is a suiting fabric used to make both men's and women's suits. The material holds its shape well, so it is often used in sewing classic jackets or jackets.
A rep dress is suitable for the office, especially a sheath or A-line silhouette. Ribbed silk fabric is suitable for evening or cocktail dresses.
Women's clothing made from reps is not limited to dresses and formal suits; blouses and skirts are also made from this fabric. Thick woolen material is used for demi-season outerwear.
The material has also found application in sewing children's clothing. Loose-fitting trousers with many pockets for boys are made from reps. It is also used for sewing lightweight children's windbreakers.
Hats, caps, caps are sewn from cotton rep, and it is used to make elastic belts. Increasingly, dense and textured material is used to sew bags in grunge and boho styles. It is used in the shoe industry for finishing or making shoes (slip-ons, sneakers).
Rep ribbon is used to make accessories. It is used to decorate hats, bags, and brooches. Hair bows, headbands, and hairpins are made from grosgrain ribbon. Gradient rep tapes give freedom for creativity. They can be monochrome or color.
The fabric has also found its application in home textiles. Bedspreads, curtains, and roller blinds are made from reps. The material is suitable for room decoration. They use it to cover walls, make complex draperies and curtains.
The fabric is used by costume designers and theater decorators. With its help, it is possible to recreate the interiors of the 18th – 19th centuries. It is also suitable for sewing historical costumes. Reenactors use the material to recreate clothing from different eras.
Rep corduroy is most often used for furniture upholstery. Thanks to the polyester composition, it retains its attractiveness for a long time and does not wear out.
Finely patterned derivative schemes
A large number of weaving patterns are made by complicating simple types of weaving. There are many options for producing fabrics with small patterns with a minimum number of changes in the weaving algorithm.
Reps
The rep weave pattern is very similar to the plain one. The peculiarity lies in the lengthening of any overlap:
- If the overlaps of the base are extended, a transverse scar is formed on the fabric.
- When the overlaps of the weft threads are lengthened, the resulting scar is oriented in the longitudinal direction.
Gozhka
This type of weave is also very similar to plain weave. Only the elongation is 2 or 3 threads. The main and weft “steps” are symmetrical to each other.
- Rapport is often a 2x2 square.
- Sometimes they make it larger, 4x4.
The drawing is bright and embossed; Suitable for many types of raw materials.
Derived twill variants
There are several options for reinforcing twill weaving. In all of them the floors are extended. As a result, wide and clearly defined diagonals are formed. Elongations can be equilateral or with a predominance of warp (weft) threads. Depending on the type of pattern used, one or another appearance of the front part of the fabric is formed.
- Complex twill has diagonals of different widths on the surface of the front part. In a fraction denoting rapport, several numbers are indicated in the numerator and denominator. They display the number of threads and the amount of mixing in the pattern of each type of fabric. The weaving pattern is sometimes called multi-ribbed.
- Broken twill is an original version with a repeating break of a diagonal strip at a right angle. The resulting pattern resembles a Christmas tree. Sometimes it is called herringbone weaving.
- Reverse twill has a shift at the diagonal break point. The pattern turns out to be even more unusual.
Derived variants of satin and satin types
In derivative versions of both schemes there is additional overlapping of threads. That's why they are called reinforced. For example, in a reinforced eight-ply satin weave, each weft row has two warp overlaps and six weft overlaps.
Recommendations for the care of rep fiber products
Features of rep care directly depend on the composition of the fabric. The simplest material is synthetic-based - it can be machine washed at temperatures up to 30 oC, and then avoid ironing (the item practically does not lose its shape). Read about a blanket with sleeves for two here.
You can store ribbed fabric clothes on hangers in the closet using a protective cover.
Products made from natural fibers, such as rep, drape and tencel, should not be washed in hot water; it is better to do the procedure by hand. Drying should only be done on a horizontal surface to avoid deformation. Ironing or steaming should be in the direction of the design. Read about Oddis knitwear from Raskazovo here.
Finely patterned combined schemes
Simple schemes for creating woven materials, known since ancient times, are still popular today.
By alternating simple weave options it is possible to obtain many interesting patterns. They are usually called combined.
Types with longitudinal or transverse stripes
Modern weaving techniques make it possible to combine all types of simple weaves by alternation. There are many options for the resulting fabrics with stripes, checkered patterns, and small geometric patterns. Patterns can alternate:
- rep and linen;
- broken twill and matting.
Many more combinations are possible.
Crepe schemes
Fine-grained crepe patterns are obtained by arbitrarily lengthening the overlaps in simple patterns. Sometimes a crepe effect is created by superimposing two simple weaving patterns. The pattern is very reminiscent of the front part of silks made from crepe twist threads.
To obtain an original impression, some fabrics combine crepe with other types of weaving.
Signs of a satin weave
The homeland of satin is China. The word “satin” is derived from the name of the Zeitun province in southern China. Initially, the fabric was made from silk. Satin weave has the following characteristics: four or more single (they are called weft) threads seem to float above the warp thread, or vice versa, four warp threads “float” above one weft thread.
Unlike other weaves, the fibers are bent less often, which allows for a spectacular surface. The radiance of satin has always been especially appreciated by ladies: satin lace magically decorated their outfits. True, tailors have a hard time: due to the fact that the thread flows during the production of the material have less compression, satin fabrics turn out to be loose at the cut. But their abrasion resistance is excellent.
Technique: verticals and horizontals
On a loom, woven fabrics, including satin, are made according to the following algorithm: the warp threads (vertical) are alternately bent in a wave-like manner (partially raised, partially lowered). Vertical threads (weft) are directed into the resulting gaps, as if diving like a duck. Before each subsequent insertion, different groups of threads are raised.
This is how the first centimeters of the canvas are gradually born. On an industrial scale, these are such volumes of woven products that they could probably wrap the globe many times. Satin weave is called satin for its particularly shiny and smooth appearance. However, satin and satin can still be distinguished. Below is a picture of the satin weave.
