Design for beginners: building a skirt from wedges

A six-piece skirt is part of the basic wardrobe of almost any woman. She helps create different looks even for overweight ladies, using a minimal set of things. This elegant skirt will decorate any look: from office to festive. And with a huge selection of fabrics, it’s not difficult. We offer various step-by-step patterns (photo).

Elegant six-piece skirts

These models usually assume a midi (from the knee to the ankles) and a maxi length - below the ankle. There are quite a few mini-options; the minimum length starts from the palm above the knee.

A - the silhouette created by this skirt visually elongates the figure, slims and makes you look younger. That is why this style is not forbidden to be worn by ladies of any size and age.

In addition to the strict lines of regular wedges, options for godet - flared skirts - are possible. They are built on the basis of conventional six-blade blades.

The lineup:

  • Skirts with frills.
  • Models on the yoke. The yoke pattern is being made. After this, a wedge is modeled, but instead of the waist line we take the yoke line.
  • Godet.
  • Models with offset wedges. The wedge lines are rounded, go in a spiral, and so on.
  • Set-in frills and flounces. The patterns are cut and the frill pattern is made. The frill is then sewn inside the wedge. After this, the individual pieces are stitched together.
  • Prefabricated wedges made of various materials, including lace, mesh, leather.


Stage one: selection of materials

Flared skirts just look great if they are made from flowing and flowing fabrics. Moreover, it can be either the finest cambric, silk or viscose staple for the summer version, or soft suit fabrics for the colder season. Depending on the type of figure, you can adjust the visual perception of the silhouette. So, for example, bright patterns with abstractions or large flowers will look good on thin people, but girls with more curvaceous shapes are better off sticking to plain colors or fabrics with small stripes and barely noticeable checks.

Also, for the skirt, in addition to the material, you will also need accessories, in particular, a hidden zipper, hooks and buttons or snaps. The clasp can be completely decorated with buttons. But, as practice shows, it is much more convenient with zipper. Moreover, it is the hidden fastener that looks neater, the exception being the case when the zipper becomes a decorative element and is specially painted golden or has rhinestones on it.

Taking measurements

To create a pattern we will need the following measurements:

  • Waist circumference - measure at the thinnest part of the body.
  • Hip circumference - measure along the hip line (protruding bones).
  • Hip height - measures from the waist line along the hip line along the side seam. For skirts made of wedges, measurement is required; it shows from which place we begin the moderate flare.
  • Skirt length is the distance from the waist line to the expected length of your product.

Modeling options

By changing the height of the wedges, it is easy to make a skirt with a gradient hem length. In this case, the symmetry of the paired wedges is important, each pair is lined up after the previous one.

Skirts with elongated wedges, the so-called fantasy year, look unusual. This model uses set-in wedges, set apart for extra volume.

In these cases, first a pattern is built - the basis of the skirt, and modeling is done based on it. See pictures.

Advice! If it is difficult to create a pattern - the basics, a comfortable straight skirt in size will do just fine.

The sewing principle for all godet skirts is the same, only the methods of constructing the wedges differ.

Step by step we build a six-piece skirt pattern

It’s not difficult to create a pattern, but it’s convenient to include all the measurements and features of the figure. The finished pattern somewhat narrows the variability.

Pattern details:

  • Wedge – 6 pieces.
  • The belt is one piece with a fold.

There are two ways to construct a wedge skirt:

  • By changing the pattern - the base.
  • By modeling the pattern of one wedge.

Base - straight skirt

Construction based on a pattern - the basics.

First of all, you need a pattern - the basis of a straight skirt. All other variations and models of skirts are built on its basis. If you have it, then the rest is just formalities. If you have never built a foundation, then a good, well-fitting old straight skirt can help you out.

We rip it apart, circle it - our base is ready:

  • The wedges do not have to be exactly the same; the middle one may differ from the side ones.
  • We find out how far from the middle of the front panel the seams will be located.
  • On the front panel we draw a vertical line parallel to the middle.
  • We transfer the dart onto it.
  • If the dart is very large (wide or deep), then only a part of 2 cm can be transferred; the remaining width is removed into the side seam.
  • Cut the pattern along the resulting outline.
  • Circle both blanks.
  • The share is strictly vertical!
  • We carry out slopes - extensions to the hem, on average 4-10 cm.
  • Align the hem line.
  • We worked with half of the front, making one side wedge and half of the middle wedge from it.
  • There is a fold of fabric in the middle of the middle wedge.
  • In total, there are three wedges on the front panel.
  • We model the rear panel in the same way.

Wedge pattern

We make a pattern for one wedge according to our measurements

Wedges are very easy to build, there doesn’t have to be six of them, maybe four, eight, ten , but the models, in this case, will be called differently.

We carry out the following calculations and constructions:

  • Determine the number of wedges.
  • Divide the circumference of the waist and hips by 6 (the number of wedges). If the result is a fractional number, round to the nearest tenth.
  • We are building a trapezoid.
  • A = waist circumference, plus increase in waist (1.5-3 cm), divide everything received by six.
  • B = hip circumference, plus increase in hips (2-5 cm), divide everything received by six.
  • We set the length of the product strictly along the line of the grain thread.
  • We define the width of the wedge along the bottom edge as the width of the skirt along the hem divided by six.
  • We take into account the length (height) of the thigh, and it is from this that we draw the thigh line.
  • Round the bottom line.
  • The middle part with a fold running strictly along the lobar.
  • The simplest pattern is ready.

Reviews

Any woman, no matter what her figure, wants to look attractive. Wedge skirts have received and continue to receive positive reviews from women of all body types. Since this model has many types, and the length varies from mini to maxi, both oversized ladies and young thin girls can wear it. And the variety of fabrics from which such a skirt can be sewn allows you to make both winter and summer options.

Its versatility makes the model accessible and convenient for every woman, and the ease of sewing delights both beginners and sewing professionals.

Layout on fabric

Layout of fabric patterns is possible in two ways:

If the pattern on the fabric is not expressed , then you can lay it out “jack”, that is, alternate the top and bottom of the individual elements.

If the material is checkered , directed floral print or striped, then we place all the details in parallel, strictly one after another, so that the pattern from one area smoothly transitions to another with the least loss.

Advice! Consider the direction of the pattern on the fabric when purchasing fabric. It may cost 1.5-2 times more if the pattern is large and has a clear direction. The same goes for fabric pile.

After laying out the parts, we chalk the parts, not forgetting the seam allowances, and cut them out.

Features of choice

You can sew a four-piece on a belt, buttons or elastic.

When choosing the length of the skirt, you need to take into account the purpose of the product. For a business suit, we sew a medium-length skirt; for everyday wear, both mini and midi options are possible. Dressy skirts, as well as light, beach styles look great with a maxi length.

The choice of fabric and pattern is also determined by the purpose of the skirt. In addition, for obese women it is necessary to take into account that it is not recommended to use fabrics with horizontal stripes, as they expand the silhouette. For large ladies, it is advisable to sew skirts, orienting the stripes at an angle. This article discusses just such a master class.

Adding pockets, a yoke, and patch flaps to the model allows you to create unique products.

Sewing the product

We will need:

  • Fabric – 2 skirt lengths, plus 10 cm for the waistband.
  • Fastener – zipper, 15-20 cm.
  • Button.
  • Belt pad.
  • Threads to match.
  • Tailor's scissors, chalk.

Progress:

  • Stitch the wedges together, leaving 20 cm unsewn in the side seam for fastening.
  • Sew on a zipper; if it is not hidden, make sure that the teeth are not visible.
  • Tissue the belt cleanly, turn it inside out, and stitch it.
  • Sew the belt to the skirt; to do this, fold it so that the top cut of the panel is between the layers of the belt.
  • Sew a button.
  • Sew a loop around the waistband.
  • Sew the bottom edge of the skirt.
  • Fold and sew with a blind seam using a machine stitch or by hand.
  • Iron the skirt.

Having a universal pattern, it is easy to model it, and get skirts that are completely different in appearance, using materials of different textures.

How and with what to wear?

To look fashionable and harmonious, it is important to understand what to wear with these clothes. Most often, as already mentioned, this skirt is used in everyday life. For everyday wear, raglans, sweaters and turtlenecks, blouses and shirts made of cotton are relevant.

Office business outlet? In this case, combine the product with shirts in light shades. Add a belt that matches your shirt or a contrasting one, and the look will turn out to be very interesting.

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