On European territory, the fashion for elastic and soft fabric came in the 15th century, when knitting machines were designed. The start of mass production brought knitwear into use not only among peasants and artisans, but also among aristocrats. Already in the 20th century, Italian fashion designers raised clothing to the pinnacle of popularity, where it confidently holds its position.
Description
Knitwear is a knitted, stretchable fabric with attractive performance characteristics. The material follows the curves of the body, fits tightly and does not limit mobility due to its ability to stretch. It has a nice texture. Hygiene, practicality and durability ensured the fabric's popularity. Moreover, knitted products do not require special care.
The use of various weaving techniques makes it possible to obtain fabric for summer and winter items and special tasks. Knitted clothing is comfortable in any weather, suitable for everyday wear and festive occasions.
By quality, knitwear is divided into three types depending on the length of the fibers. The fabric can be single or double, smooth and structured. However, there are many classifications based on different criteria.
- Penye has the best fiber, the fiber length is 35-70mm.
- Good for card or ring 27-35mm.
- The average for the opener is 20-27mm.
The length of the fiber determines how long the knitwear will not lose its shape and whether it will fray. The longer it is, the longer it will last.
What's in it
The composition of knitwear can contain fibers of the same type or a mixture of different threads. The source of raw materials is flax, viscose, silk, cotton and wool, as well as synthetic fibers. To obtain yarn, various twisting technologies are used, which affects the properties of the finished fabric. A common option is mixed fabrics made from natural and synthetic raw materials.
Description of fibers for making knitwear:
- Viscose is an artificial thread made from wood cellulose.
- Cotton is of natural, plant origin. Softness and hygroscopicity.
- Lycra is a cellulose fiber that has been treated with vinegar anhydrite.
- Silk is a thread obtained from the protein cocoons of the silkworm. It has lightness, strength and glossy shine.
- Elastane is an elastic fiber of synthetic origin.
- Twisted threads from the wool of goats, sheep and camels.
Natural knitted fabric consists of cotton or wool. For linen it mainly contains cotton or viscose threads. Insulated clothing is made from loose-textured wool yarn.
Hosiery products are made from cotton, polyamide, nylon, viscose and wool. To obtain products with a smooth surface, synthetic threads are added. Things made of polyester wear and wash well, but are less comfortable and prone to pilling.
Features and composition of knitwear
Selanik refers to knitted materials of a combined composition, which means the inclusion of synthetic and artificial fibers, for example, viscose, polyester, acrylic, in the main cotton component.
Important. Selanik fabric is moderately dense. The front side is thermally treated to give it a light matte shine. The reverse side is covered with a small soft fleece.
The canvas is always monochromatic, painted with pigments that are harmless to humans. Both finished fabrics and yarn can be dyed before sending it to the knitting machine. Children's clothes are made from bright fabrics. Products for adults in more restrained shades.
Combined knitwear
Allows you to combine qualities from different threads to obtain the desired characteristics. For example, pure cotton wrinkles a lot and wears out quickly, but a synthetic additive minimizes such properties.
Types of combined fabric:
- Vigonevoye - made from cotton and natural wool.
- Heterogeneous - consists of natural and synthetic threads, the percentage of which depends on the factory.
- Mixed - based on the predominance of one fiber with additives.
Manufacturing methods
Knitted material is obtained in several ways:
- Cutting, when a canvas of a certain width is obtained, from which elements of parts of future products are cut out according to patterns. Suitable for sewing clothes, including outerwear, underwear, gloves. The method involves the presence of waste, which takes up a quarter of outerwear. Used in the manufacture of consumer goods.
- Regular - considered labor-intensive and expensive, used in small-scale production. The product is knitted immediately, without connecting individual parts as in the previous version. The finished product is seamless. Small stitches are visible on knitted parts.
- Semi-regular, which has found application in the creation of outerwear. For its implementation, circular knitting machines are used. The edge is formed by a series of loops and does not require further processing. The method is economical in terms of time and material. There is no cutting and no downtime when sewing.
Weaving options
Knitwear is produced by weaving threads on special knitting machines. The basis is made up of horizontal loops assembled in numerous vertical rows. There are several types of them and depending on this, you get a stockinette stitch or a footer weave.
- A circular knitting machine makes a kulirka. The rotating cylinder has up to 13 thousand needles.
- Single circular knitting equipment produces fabric with a lining weave. The machine is capable of producing up to 1800 rows per minute and works with 8 knitting patterns. Holds about 1000 needles.
The weaving fabric is divided into:
- The surface where the face and back are different. The back side is wavy and rough, and the front side with columns of braids is smooth. The fabric stretches in width and only slightly in length.
- The eraser is knitted with an elastic band. Lycra and elastane are added to it, so it does not wrinkle and keeps its shape.
- A double-sided pattern looks the same on both sides. It does not stretch, and its cut does not unravel.
Footer weaving produces leotard, cloth, chain and satin. During manufacturing, a shift occurs in one or both directions to form a pattern.
Knitwear finishing options
Finishing operations are necessary to give the canvas an attractive appearance, such as:
- Bleached allows you to lighten the material to a homogeneous state and obtain a white or soft cream tone. Is an independent type of processing or preparatory for the subsequent one.
- Plain dyed is used for monochromatic coloring.
- With a drawing, print or coupon applied to the canvas.
- Variegated knitting, when the interweaving of already dyed threads creates a multi-color knitted fabric.
- Rough or unfinished, it appears at the initial stage of production without additional finishing.
The finished knitwear is smooth or fluffy. The hairiness of the surface is imparted by special cones and needle-shaped ribbons located on the shafts of special machines. The relief and volume in the finished fabric is obtained from textured threads.
Fabric and knitwear - what's the difference?
There is a significant difference between woven fabric and knitted fabric.
To summarize, knitwear is made using a knitting machine, while fabric is made using a loom. They also differ in characteristics, having their own pros and cons. In most cases, knitwear can be stretched, hardly wrinkles, is quite warm and is more prone to loss of shape and shrinkage (especially if improperly cared for). Mark Formelle clothing is most often made from knitwear.
Woven fabric, in turn, does not stretch unless an admixture, for example, lycra, is added to it. The fabrics do not “shrink” and almost do not lose their shape, and retain their color for a long time. However, woven fabrics are less warm and rougher, and they also wrinkle very well - think about linen!
What types of knitwear are there?
The following are distinguished by appearance:
- Terry, the front side of which looks like a bath towel, and on the back there are vertical columns of braids. It comes with double-sided pile. Consists only of cotton threads or mixed fibers with the addition of synthetics.
- Velor with a velvety outer surface. Thick and soft pile adds decorativeness. The pattern on the inside is also in the form of braids. Drapable and long lasting. it is durable and dimensional stable.
- Stretch corduroy that looks like knitted velor, only ribbed and with a shinier pile.
- The material is fleece with terry, similar to sheared sheep's wool. It is obtained from polyester fibers and is used for coats, jackets, sweatshirts, and thermal underwear. It is suitable as a lining fabric for outerwear. Does not retain its shape for long and stretches quickly.
- Velsoft is dense due to its thick pile. Made from polyamide threads. Keeps its original shape and attractive appearance. Does not form pellets. Velsoft fabric can be considered a competitor to terry fabrics in the production of blankets, towels, bedspreads and home clothing.
- Quilted, on the surface of which an ornament or design is embossed. The technique allows you to give the front side volume and an attractive appearance. Used for sewing skirts, jackets, dresses.
- Reticulated with a distinct cellular structure. Used for decorative elements, beach tunics and capes.
- Jacquard with complex weaving that forms a pattern. It has various composition options and is widely used.
- Brushed knitwear has pile only on the wrong side or on both, which gives density and shape stability. It has heat protection and elasticity. It is used in the manufacture of warm clothes, sportswear and underwear.
- Knitted jersey has a clearly defined structure and pattern. Found in warm items made of wool or acrylic for children and adults: sweaters, pullovers, gaiters and suits. Viscose or cotton fabric is used for summer blouses, dresses and tops.
- Sweater with a variety of textures: smooth and with a pile, dense and light, patterned and uniform.
- Gum or noodles, when convex stripes evenly fill the canvas on both sides. Suitable for turtlenecks, pullovers, bodycon dresses and separates such as cuffs and collars.
Variety of knitted fabrics
Footer
It is a brushed fabric made from natural cotton. Used for children's clothing, even for the little ones. Warm and comfortable footer fabric is suitable for tracksuits, underwear, pajamas and dressing gowns. The disadvantage is that it shrinks after the first wash.
Kulirka
Kulir or kulir stitch is a light and thin knitted fabric. However, it wears well and is durable. It has a facial pattern in the form of braids. Does the jersey knit stretch or not? Yes, but only in width. It consists of cotton with the inclusion of lycra fibers. All types of summer clothing for children and adults are made from this fabric: suits, blouses, dresses, pajamas and underwear. The canvas allows air to pass through and absorbs moisture, which is especially important on hot days.
Jersey
It is a type of single weave. It stretches well and hardly wrinkles. Jersey knitwear can be either mixed, containing viscose, cotton or wool, or synthetic.
Pique
Made from silk, cotton or viscose threads. The knitting of the knitted fabric resembles a honeycomb. Cotton pique fabric is used for sewing polo T-shirts, and silk fabric is used for women's dresses.
Selanik
Thick jersey made from a mixture of synthetics and cotton. It has an eraser on the front side and a comb on the back. Used for newborns as sewing children's clothing.
Lacoste
Its weaving of threads forms a mesh structure. The fabric is ventilated and suitable for summer clothing.
Interlock
Double-sided fabric with braids on both sides. It is obtained by weaving into a 1x1 elastic band. Thick interlock knit with low stretch. Designed for sportswear, T-shirts and sleepwear.
Dior
Fabric with a plain cross or herringbone pattern.
Biflex
This type of knitwear contains nylon threads and the addition of lycra. It is durable, colorful and stretches beautifully in any direction. The supplex material is intended for dance and gymnastics costumes, swimsuits and circus clothing.
Kashkorse
Large rib knitwear. The fabric composition of the cashcorse linen includes cotton, synthetics, lycra and spandex for elasticity. Suitable for processing the edges of necklines and sleeves, as well as for sewing garments.
Gipel
The original weaving forms a pattern on the canvas. Quite light and elastic material consists of cotton and lycra fibers.
Capitonius
Thick, warm and voluminous knitwear with visible square or diamond stitching. It is also called quilted. Capitonium fabric is used for sewing cardigans, sweaters, thick winter skirts and suits.
Otto
Raised fabric with a rib like corduroy. Available in plain colors or with a print. Otto knitwear is elastic, resistant to wrinkles and wear. Consists of cotton, polyester and viscose.
Eraser
Elastic and elastic knitwear with rib 1x1, 1x2 or 2x2. Contains added lycra fiber. It is used to sew cuffs and necks for outerwear, as well as garments for adults and children.
French
It turns out to be a viscous double thread, which makes the knitwear dense. Keeps its shape and does not wrinkle when worn. French knitwear is intended for sewing dresses, skirts, sweaters, and trousers.
Oil or “cold” viscose fabric
This knitwear is very soft, delicate and elastic. It flows gracefully in the product, takes any shape and forms beautiful assemblies. The thin material oil consists of fibers of viscose, lycra and polyester.
Angora
Soft and fleecy fabric made from wool, elastane and acrylic. Recently, the composition has been based on synthetics, but the fabric has remained just as attractive.
Ribana
Fine striped fabric is made from cotton. Sometimes lycra or polyester is added to the composition. Ribbon fabric is used for outer knitwear. It is elastic, does not lose shape and lasts a long time.
Reviews of Selanik fabric
“Dense soft knitwear made of natural cotton ─ ideal for a baby blanket. The material is lightweight, so it’s not a problem to take the blanket with you on a walk. Rolled up in a bag, it doesn’t take up much space, but will keep you warm if necessary. I wash the blanket in the machine at a temperature of 30 to 40°C. I spin at low drum speeds. I’m also planning to buy a children’s suit.”
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