In recent seasons, the peplum skirt has taken a leading place on the catwalks of the world. Not only designers, but also ordinary girls loved her. A dress, blouse, skirt and even trousers with a peplum are the choice of modern fashionistas.
The popular trend today originated in Spain and was an element of the Basque costume - hence its name. In the 17th century, French men also decorated their clothes with peplums. Spanish fashion designer Cristobal Balenciaga turned to the history of fashion and began to use this element in his sketches. In the post-war years, Christian Dior created an incredibly feminine look by combining a full skirt with a fitted peplum jacket.
This year, the peplum adorns the collections of absolutely all women's clothing stores. Designers design it in the form of lush bows or miniature wings, a light wave or a strict geometric line. It’s easy to replenish your wardrobe with a fashionable and relevant item without significant expenses - you can sew a skirt with a peplum yourself. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to be an experienced needlewoman for this.
Design idea
Implementation begins with an idea. Therefore, before you start sewing, you need to create an image of the future item. To do this, you need to answer simple questions:
- when to wear?
- where to wear?
- how often to wear?
- what to combine with?
The answers will help you decide what the product will be. For example, if you want to wear a peplum skirt in the summer, you will need to purchase thin summer material at a fabric store. The place where you want to wear the item, as well as the desired frequency of wear, will determine the color, length, presence or absence of trim. The question “what to combine with?” should be decisive, because the key to a good wardrobe is the availability of sets. If you have a favorite blouse in a pleasant color in your closet, the material for the future peplum skirt should be selected either in tone or in a contrasting shade.
A few words about the Basque
The history of the decorative element in the form of a frill hemmed to the skirt along the entire length of its belt began a very long time ago, and initially it was an integral part of the national costume of the Spanish Basques. The fashionable idea was later picked up by French couturiers, after which it spread throughout the world. On clothes such as a jacket, dress, skirt, peplum (we’ll discuss what to wear with it below) is a signature touch of Christian Dior. He first used a seemingly ordinary frill of fabric in 1947 when creating the famous New Look collection.
Now the peplum can be absolutely anything: one-piece (on jackets, blazers, outerwear) or cut-off (dresses, skirts, trousers and even shorts). The main requirement for the material of the product is the ability to hold its shape, maintaining the smoothness and structure of the lines. The appearance also varies: simple stripes, bows, flounces, strict geometric cuts of fabric, “wings” on the sides, etc.
Peplum skirt pattern
So, the material has been purchased, threads and needles are in stock. The creation of any thing begins with a pattern. In order to draw it, you will need only 3 measurements: half-waist girth, half-hip girth and length of the product. Having taken these indicators, you can get to work. To make the drawing task easier, you can use graph paper.
- The pattern of a skirt with a peplum (Fig. 1) is built on the principle of a simple skirt, with the only exception that the peplum pattern is also designed. To begin with, draw a rectangle ABCD.
- Moreover, the length of sides AB and DC is equal to the half-circumference of the hips + 1 cm - this will be the width.
- The length of sides AD and BC is determined by the desired length of the product.
- From point A to the right we lay half of the segment AB, put a point T. From it we lower the perpendicular downwards until it intersects with the line DC.
- To build a hip line, we put 20 cm down from points A, T and B. We connect the resulting points L, L1, L2 with a dotted line.
- To calculate the depth of the darts at the waist line, it is necessary to subtract the half-circumference of the waist +1 cm from the half-circumference of the hips +1 cm. We divide the resulting number in half - this will be the value of the side dart, front = 3 cm. To obtain the value of the rear dart, it is necessary from the received numbers subtract the sum of the sizes of the side and front darts.
- When constructing a drawing from point T to the right and left, set aside half the value of the side dart. We connect them with a dotted line with line L1, divide their side lines in half and measure 0.5 cm towards line TL1. From point 1 upward we measure 1 cm - this is point 1.
- To build a front dart, you need to set aside 5 cm from the side line to the left and draw a perpendicular straight line down. Then, from the point of intersection of the perpendicular with the waist line in both directions, set aside half the depth of the front dart - 1.5 cm - this is point 1.5. The lower end of the dart should be moved 0.5 cm towards the side seam. The length of the dart is 9-10 cm.
- When constructing the back dart, we divide the AT line in half and from the division point to the right and left we set aside half of the resulting value (the remainder of the difference), these are points 2. The length of the back dart is 12-13 cm.
- To construct the waistline of the back half of the peplum skirt, connect points 1 and 2.
- To construct the waist line of the front half of the skirt, connect points 1 and 1.5.
Important! If the difference between the half-circumference of the hips with an increase and the half-circumference of the waist with an increase is more than 14 cm, 2 darts must be made on the back half of the peplum skirt. The first is at a distance of 5-7 cm from the middle of the back, 3-4 cm wide and 13-15 cm long. Divide the remaining distance in half - this is where the second dart will be. Its width is 2-3 cm, length 12-13 cm.
- The peplum pattern is based on the example of Fig. 2. The radius of the pattern is 1/6 of the waist circumference -1 cm.
- A semicircle is constructed as shown in the figure.
- Then we put the length of the peplum down and draw a second semicircle.
Source: korfiati.ru
DIY peplum skirt
For sewing beginners, there is another, more accessible and quicker way to get a peplum skirt.
To do this, you need to take the fabric for the desired skirt and turn it inside out. Draw the silhouette of a pencil skirt or outline the finished product.
Leave seam allowances and cut out. We sew the side edges and the bottom contour of the product.
From the remaining fabric we cut out a wide, long strip - this will be the peplum.
The basque must be sewn in frequent folds so that the size of the resulting flounce is sufficient for the skirt. We mark the place where the fashion element will be located using tailor's chalk. The basque can be sewn on.
We bend and hem the upper part of the product. We sew in a zipper. The new peplum skirt is ready!
How to sew a peplum skirt
This season, world-famous boutiques, small designer showrooms, and mass markets in shopping centers dressed their mannequins in incredibly feminine outfits of a simple cut, decorated with soft flounces in the form of small wings or strict geometric lines - peplum.
With our help, you can easily make yourself a unique, super fashionable item by inventing a model yourself or borrowing an idea from world designers, for example from this article.
Content
How to sew a skirt with a peplum - pattern
By the way, this trend did not appear this year or even in the last century. In the 17th century, light flounces adorned the national men's clothing of the proud, independent Basque people, who to this day inhabit northern Spain and southwestern France.
You can decorate a skirt with a peplum of absolutely any cut and from any fabric. But, of course, the simpler the style and color of the skirt, the better it will look - then there will be no overload of details and the peplum will become its main decoration, not only emphasizing your wasp waist, but also visually creating the “correct” silhouette of the figure, favored by fashion designers - "hourglass".
Brave fashionistas decorate not only skirts with peplums, but also dresses and blouses, and even trousers and overalls.
Straight, airy dresses and blouses with peplums not at waist level, but along the edges of lowered shoulders, have become especially popular this season.
With this pattern you can sew a peplum to an already finished skirt, for example, to give new life to your old item. To do this, it is not necessary to select exactly the same fabric; the contrasting color and texture of the peplum will only add sophistication and uniqueness to the item.
Alternatively, you can sew a removable peplum belt and wear it according to your mood with any item in your wardrobe - a skirt, a fitted dress and classic trousers.
In this article you can find detailed instructions for sewing a stylish pencil skirt and diversify it with a peplum using our patterns.
The peplum does not have to be uniform across the entire waistband of the skirt: you can make it asymmetrical by lengthening the flounce on the side, front or back, or cut out a kind of “collar” at the front of the waist, as in this pattern:
How to sew a skirt with a peplum
For completely beginner needlewomen, we will reveal the secret of sewing a skirt with a peplum without creating a pattern. Such a skirt will turn out no worse than the one that will have to be cut, of course, provided that all your seams are even and neat.
- Lay the fabric face down on a flat surface.
- Using a bar of soap or chalk, trace along the contour all the details of a ready-made (possibly store-bought) skirt in your size, adding 2 cm along the edges for seams.
- Cut out all the details with sharp scissors.
- From the remaining fabric, measure a strip 15-20 cm wide and a length equal to two times the circumference of your waist.
- Sew all the details of the skirt, focusing on the finished product.
- Gather the strip evenly and sew it into the waistband of the skirt.
If you don’t have a ready-made skirt, or you want to sew a skirt of a specific model, then on our website you will find many detailed master classes on sewing skirts of a wide variety of styles in simple ways, suitable even for beginners, for example this one.
By the way, the peplum is not always made wide and so obvious. You can cut the strip shorter, then the peplum will not draw attention to itself so much. Or, on the contrary, add another 5-10 cm to the length and width of the stripe, then the skirt will turn out elegant and festive.
And one more tip: skirts look very unusual, with a peplum not at the waist, but along the hem. So why don’t you have such a skirt in your summer wardrobe?
How to sew a peplum skirt with your own hands: video
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Unusual solutions for a peplum skirt
When it comes to handicrafts, there is no limit to the flight of imagination! You can make your own peplum skirt even more unique and interesting. For example, try making the basque itself from a material of a contrasting shade - according to the principle of fashionable combinations of this season (pink skirt - yellow basque).
The second way to get creative with a fashionable element is variations on the theme of shapes. The peplum can be made oblique, long or short, with many folds or a light frill. Skirts with two or three short peplums are suitable for romantic young girls.
A skirt with a peplum is a bright, fashionable and eye-catching detail in a woman’s wardrobe. Many stylists include it in the list of musthaves - that is, those things that should be in the wardrobe of every representative of the fair sex. Incredibly feminine, a skirt with a peplum looks equally relevant in the office and on a date, at an informal friendly party and at a big celebration. It will certainly become a favorite item in the wardrobe and will allow its owner to always look spectacular. Follow fashion and create it yourself!
Shoes and accessories
An ensemble that includes a pencil skirt requires special accessories to accentuate the style. To decorate a woman's image, products made of wood, natural stone, and jewelry that imitate gold or silver are suitable. A wide bracelet will add nobility, pearl earrings will add tenderness, and stylish glasses will add a businesslike look to your look. A chiffon scarf or a light silk scarf will highlight your individuality.
As for shoes, the best option is stiletto sandals or. However, shoes - pumps or ballet flats - will look no less harmonious. The color of the shoes should match the shade of any element of the ensemble - gloves, headdress, skirt or blouse. Whatever image you create, know how to present yourself and be confident in your beauty and irresistibility!