Knitted trousers for your child, a skirt for a girl, pajamas, T-shirts made of knitted fabric - very comfortable and practical clothes. Therefore, many people like to sew such knitwear products with their own hands. Unfortunately, knitted fabrics are quite difficult to sew, especially on old model sewing machines, produced back in the days when such fabrics did not exist. However, if you use some tips from our site, stretch and knitted fabrics can be sewn even on old models of sewing machines.
Another problem when sewing products from knitted fabrics can be hemming the bottom or sleeves. In factory conditions, the hem is processed with a special flat-stitch machine. There are also household models of such sewing machines, but paying 30 thousand rubles for it is not always reasonable. It is much easier to master the technique of processing a hem that imitates a flat seam using an overlocker. It is this method of hemming the bottom of knitted fabrics that will be discussed in this article.
Disconnect the serger knife
Fold the edge of the bottom of the product to a standard width, 2 - 3 cm. To make this line clearer, you can lightly iron or baste.
An important condition for performing hems on an overlocker is the ability to turn off the overlocker knife. In order to turn it off, you first need to pull the upper knife mechanism to the right, and in this position turn it up (towards you), lift it.
Method No. 3: Hemming
Turning is used, as a rule, when processing the figured bottom of a product. For example, conical skirts or different-sized hems of a blouse or dress. The facing can become a decoration of the product if it is made from a different fabric. The facing is usually duplicated, but in each specific case we decide on the density of the main fabric, but if we do duplicate it, then with a very thin dubbing.
A facing is a cutting detail that is tailored exactly to the finished unit. In this case, this is the bottom of our product. Choose the width of the facing according to your wishes, do not forget to add an allowance of 1 cm to join the parts.
It is necessary to cut out facing details not only from fabric, but also from duplicating material. To do this, take a fabric that fits the size of the part and glue it with dublerin. There is an article on the blog that describes in detail what non-woven and double linen are.
And then we cut it exactly according to the shape of our facing.
There are two options for connecting the facing to the part:
- the facing will be visible on the front side of the product;
- the facing will be hidden on the wrong side.
Let's make a facing from the wrong side. We process the top cut using an overlocker or a zig-zag stitch. We connect the raw cut face to face with the bottom of the product.
We connect using a sewing machine. After using the sewing machine, using an iron, we iron out the stitching allowances. Once the ironing is done, it will not be difficult to re-iron the facing inside out using pins.
All that remains is to attach the top facing to our product. We sew with hand bias stitches and place a line in the middle or edge of the overlock stitch.
Double hem of the bottom of the product
Now the folded and possibly ironed or creased hem needs to be folded again, just not on the wrong side, but on the front side, as shown in this photo. If you are not experienced enough, this double hem can be slightly pressed. Just don't baste as it will be difficult to remove the threads from the overlock stitch.
Method No. 4: Edging with bias tape
Bias binding can be used to trim the bottom of the product, it turns out very elegant and beautiful. You can make bias tape with your own hands; there is a detailed video about this on our YouTube channel How to make bias tape.
We connect the wrong side of the product by aligning the cuts along the bottom line with the face of the bias tape, first with pins, then with basting stitches. We sew a line along the ironing line of the bias tape, which is closer to the cut. Then we bend it around, pin it or baste it and add a stitch to the edge.
Processing the hem edge of a four-thread seam
Processing the hem edge of a knitted fabric product can be done in two ways, a four-thread seam or a three-thread seam. First, let's look at the first option, when both overlock needles are used.
Place an overcast stitch along the double folded hem or sleeve. In my example, for clarity, a piece of knitted fabric is used, and the threads are specially chosen in a different color so that it is better to see how such a seam is formed.
This is the seam you get after ironing the hem, more like a stitched cuff. But such a seam is very stretchable and will not burst with sudden movements. Of course, this method of processing hems using an overlocker is only suitable for children’s clothing, hems for children’s trousers, girls’ skirts, pajamas, etc.
How to sew knitwear without an overlocker
How to sew knitwear and more without an overlocker?
Not every beginner, having decided that he really wants to sew right now, is ready to furnish his home with sewing equipment. It is not yet clear what the need will be. Therefore, often the first thing that appears is the sewing machine (well, it’s absolutely impossible without it), and then there’s the overlocker, the cover-stitching machine, and all sorts of upgrades for them.
But how can you do without all this wealth and process the cuts without an overlocker so that you want to wear the product inside out?
First, read the article “Rules for working with knitwear.”
And about processing the answers are here:
1. Special seams
– on thin, delicate fabrics, the shoulder and side seams can be finished with a French (double turn-out) seam and the same for burlap pockets. Hem - Moscow seam;
– if the materials are thicker, then a closed seam and a hem seam with a closed cut.
2. Bias tape - for everything else. Just not the kind in stores (hard, except for expensive silk), but homemade.
3. Combination of special processing. seams and tape. Why not?
4. Lining - an option for thick fabrics, and not only. In this case, the lining should not be loose.
What about knitwear? You can't use a regular straight stitch with it and wear it with pleasure. When stretching the material, there will be holes in the straight stitch. It’s also not worth stretching the material when sewing, because the sections of the fabric are deformed and come out fragile. But there is still a way to process knitwear without an overlocker! Zigzag. Try the settings: stitch length 2 mm, width 1 mm.
And options for processing allowances:
– wide zigzag (3 mm, for example, like in the blue “noodles” in the video);
– additional stitches (or so-called “overlock” stitches, as on pink knitwear).
On thin knitwear, you can process the allowances as in the video with blue stockinette stitch:
1. Grind down the edges using a narrow zigzag.
2. Cut off an allowance of 4-5 mm from the side on which we will iron.
3. Use a longer allowance to close the one that was cut.
4. Make another line with a narrow zigzag.
The bottom of the sleeves and the products themselves are perfectly processed with a double needle. That is, you can do without a stitcher.
So, if you want to sew knitwear, but don’t have an overlocker, sew. We have a large selection of ready-made patterns for sewing knitwear for women, men and children (including free ones). In addition, there are several master classes on the YouTube channel:
“Master class on sewing Nick’s knitted suit and how to sew knitwear without an overlocker”
“Master class on sewing an Alya T-shirt without an overlocker or stitcher”
“Master class on sewing a children's knitted suit” in 3 parts.
Extensibility coefficient
Different types of knitwear stretch differently.
This must be taken into account when creating a pattern. If you chose a pattern from a magazine, the description should indicate the desired percentage of elasticity (stretchability) of the fabric. The easiest way is to buy the same fabric, otherwise you will need to find out this value for a new fabric when purchasing. This information may be contained on the price tag, but be prepared to calculate the stretch factor yourself. To do this, measure a piece of 10 cm on the fabric, departing approximately 7 cm from the cut of the fabric. Take the piece on both sides, stretch it and attach it to a ruler or centimeter. Note the resulting size.
If the fabric stretches to 15 cm or more, it is a high stretch knit (from 50%) If the fabric stretches to 13 cm, it is a medium stretch knit (30%) If the fabric stretches to 12 cm or less, it is a low stretch knit (up to 12%)
What happens?
Conventionally divided into several large “families”: • Large knitting is a fun classic. Very large weave. • Elastic band (“noodles”) - similar to the famous knitting pattern. Relief vertical stripes. The pitch of the reliefs is wider than in a cashboard! • Braids - large volumetric patterns. The patterns have the form of strands, chains, diamonds and “braids”. • Angora - quite smooth, but the weaves are still clearly visible. On the surface there are delicate fibers - underfur.
• Bouclé is a grainy weave interspersed with irregular knots. • Bonding is two-layer, with a dense base. The top layer is openwork.
Knitwear care
The composition of the fabric determines the temperature of the iron!
Iron cotton or linen knitwear at high temperature, woolen or viscose knitwear at moderate temperature, synthetic knitwear at low temperature. Be sure to try it on a scrap piece of fabric! To prevent the fabric from stretching, iron in the direction of the front “braids” along the grain. Iron the fabric from the wrong side, first smoothing the fabric with your hand.
Washing knitwear also depends on the composition of the fabric. Wash knitwear made from mixed or synthetic fibers on a delicate cycle or by hand. Choose special detergents for washing. Wash cotton jersey at a temperature of 40-60 degrees. Items made from expensive wool or silk knitwear can be dry cleaned or hand washed with delicate detergents. Gently wring out the fabric (without twisting) and lay it on a towel to dry.
To remove pellets, use a special machine that will carefully cut them off the surface of the fabric. Store knitted clothes folded in a closet; the fabric may stretch on a hanger.
Hemming the bottom of the skirt by hand
The easiest way to hem the edge of a fabric product is with a hand-blind seam, which is called a “goat”. To process knitwear, in addition to the “goat” stitch, you can use a hand stitch “over the edge”.
The scheme is as follows: we insert a needle and thread below the edge of the fold, making a stitch in the opposite direction, then we bring the thread forward and insert the thread above the edge of the fold in the same direction. We go from left to right along the entire length of the product, thus connecting the fold with the fabric.
The thread should not be thicker than the fabric being hemmed, and the stitches should not be visible from the front side. The resulting seam should not tighten the fabric. Then the hem will be smooth along its entire length, and the seam will be invisible.
Creating a pattern for knitwear
The values of the stretch coefficient can be ignored if you are going to sew a voluminous model with a loose silhouette.
When sewing tight-fitting models, the higher the percentage of elasticity, the narrower the pattern should be. For example, if the elasticity of knitwear is 30%, then the measurements for the chest, waist and hips should be reduced by this percentage.
However, for a better fit at hip level, we recommend reducing your hip circumference measurements by only half the factor, or not reducing them at all. Then the skirt or dress will not ride up when moving. In addition, in models with a tight-fitting silhouette, keep in mind that when the fabric is stretched in width, it shortens somewhat in length.
The percentage of elasticity should also be taken into account when modeling the neckline and armholes. For fabrics with an elasticity of 50% or more, draw these cuts shallower. After the first fitting, you will be able to adjust the contours of the cutouts more accurately. Tight-fitting models made from high-elasticity knitwear do not require darts or increases for a loose fit.
Types of knitwear
The main difference between knitted fabric is elasticity, the ability to stretch in length and/or width. Knitted fabric is “knitted” with loops: front and back. On the front side of the fabric, the loops are located in vertical rows of “braids”, and on the wrong side you will see horizontal rows. There is also a double knit, this is a dense fabric in which vertical “face” rows are on both sides of the material.
Knitwear is made from natural, synthetic, and mixed fibers. Cotton knitwear is easier both to sew and to care for. This is a fairly durable material at an affordable price. Knitwear made from silk, wool, viscose or linen requires more attention at all stages of processing.
In general, knitwear made from natural fibers is more comfortable to wear than synthetic ones: it is breathable and does not electrify. Blended-fiber knitwear retains the comfort of natural fabric, but it wrinkles less and is more durable. However, such fabric is susceptible to the formation of “pellets”.
Let's say a few words about the most popular types of knitwear.
Jersey is a universal fabric of different densities. This is a single knit fabric for shirts and dresses, and is also used for sewing underwear. The jersey barely stretches in length.
Sweatshirt is a cotton jersey with a pile that is located on the reverse side. This is a simple cut sportswear fabric.
“Elastic band” (or “noodles”) is a thick knitwear with pronounced “pigtails” on both sides. The “elastic” stretches well and is used for hemming sections of armholes and necklines, as well as cuffs. In addition, dresses, turtlenecks and pullovers of adjacent silhouettes are sewn from elastic.
Interlock also has front rows on both sides. This is a lightweight fabric that does not stretch much in width. Interlock is used for sewing T-shirts and blouses, sportswear, sleepwear, and underwear.
Stretch knitwear is made from highly elastic spandex, which allows it to stretch in all directions. May also contain cotton, nylon and polyester fibers. Ideal for tight-fitting models: swimsuits, leggings, etc.
What to sew?
All! From children's T-shirts to men's pullovers and women's jackets. Knitted jersey is used in loose, straight, “fit” silhouettes. Used for basic wardrobe: sheath dresses, cardigans, skirts, turtlenecks with stocking collars. Dense options of medium thickness are suitable: PILLOW, Nice, Fest. Viscose elastic has proven itself: “Antipilling”, Pleasant, COZY. Tight, sexy clothes are made from especially elastic options.
Fashionable walking suits with a touch of sporty style are sewn from dense, medium-resistant fabrics. They usually consist of soft trousers and a raglan sleeve sweatshirt or hoodie. Angora and braids are great for jumpers and sweaters. Heavy bonding and boucle are suitable for interesting capes and capes. Can be coated.
Separately, we note the thin plastic “Omega”: plain and with a pattern. It flows and allows you to model beautiful draperies. It is often ordered to sew universal pieces with one-piece sleeves: a blouse, a blouse, a top. Knee-length tunics are especially popular. This category of material can satisfy any request: a dress for a girl, light home sets, a jacket in smart casual style, etc. The choice of model depends on the plastic properties of the jersey, its composition, as well as on the season in which you plan to wear the item.
